Express 330 concerns?

Kmann1022

New Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2022
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Age
52
Model
Voyager
I will be selling my Voyager at the end of this season to upgrade to a 330 Express. How prevalent is this hull delamination issue on the rear sides and transom? My budget puts me in the 2002-2007 year range.
 

family affair

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
1,437
Reaction score
339
Points
83
Location
Ohio
Model
Islander
Grady knows the most. Question is will Grady actually tell you. Me thinks not, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,529
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
The issue is not so much delamination. It is balsa core rot. It is not all that easy to detect from the outside. If the core rots and develops a void between the inner and outer skin, a moisture test probably won't detect it. If the core is still there but wet, the meter should detect that
A good surveyor with experience on those hulls should be able to detect the issue based on inspections of the inside of the hull aft. I guess but don't know for certain that the hull when tapped would sound different if the core were gone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: family affair

loubeer

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 6, 2017
Messages
204
Reaction score
75
Points
28
Location
Newport Beach, CA
Model
Express 330
I'll be very interested to hear responses to this question. I think my boat is OK, but there has been so much discussion about this topic it makes my head spin. Many years ago, I changed the aluminum bang plate cover, that was beginning to pit, to vinyl and sealed it well; I see no indication of rot or rust on the inside rear transom areas. I find it hard to believe that much water, if any, could be coming in thru the side vents while idle or running. I'm in SoCal, so harsh conditions are rare. The hull tapping process, I'm sure, is valid when done by an expert, but I'll be damned if I can figure it out. Anyway, my engines seem solidly in place and I see no signs of problems, so I'll just continue enjoying my boat.
 

wspitler

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,365
Reaction score
318
Points
83
Location
Inglis, FL
Model
Express 330
For the years you are considering, rotten wood should not be an issue in that Grady swapped plywood to Greenwood XL which apparently is a marine grade pressure treated plywood that can’t rot and it’s guaranteed for life. My 2007 had the aluminum bang cap which was beginning to corrode I also switched to vinyl and it was all well sealed. The vinyl versus aluminum bang cap is an issue if you see one with aluminum that is badly corroded look a little further. Mine was well sealed underneath the aluminum. You will likely see some post regarding delamination of balsa cored structures but I have yet to see a real failure or cracking of the hull on the later model Grady‘s. After hearing reports of water intrusion on the vents on the port and starboard quarters, I removed the vents and inspected mine thoroughly and they are very well sealed with no water intrusion. As most mentioned a surveyor Knowledgeable on Grady-White hulls is a great value and can be used to negotiate price.
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,529
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
I'll be very interested to hear responses to this question. I think my boat is OK, but there has been so much discussion about this topic it makes my head spin. Many years ago, I changed the aluminum bang plate cover, that was beginning to pit, to vinyl and sealed it well; I see no indication of rot or rust on the inside rear transom areas. I find it hard to believe that much water, if any, could be coming in thru the side vents while idle or running. I'm in SoCal, so harsh conditions are rare. The hull tapping process, I'm sure, is valid when done by an expert, but I'll be damned if I can figure it out. Anyway, my engines seem solidly in place and I see no signs of problems, so I'll just continue enjoying my boat.
The balsa problem was not in the transom, it was in the aft sides of the hull above the water line. It was most likely a production issue caused by improper lamination of the skin to the core. Grady repaired some hulls in the field by cutting out the side section in question, re-coring and bonding the side cutout back in place. Repair is a big job. Unfortunately the 'leak' sometimes permeated the inside stringer structure. I never did learn exactly what happened. Some say it was leakage around the vents but I was told originally that the cause was improper sealing of the hull to deck joint in the aft quarter. The cases I knew of if I remember correctly were port side but then again my info was probably incomplete. I also don't know if the problem was limited to Expresses. I would like to know more like affected model years, affected models etc.
 

everwhom

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
445
Reaction score
80
Points
28
Location
Cape Cod and Nantucket
When I bought my 2003 330 Express 6 years ago my SAMS surveyor thoroughly tapped the entire hull and declared it sound. Last winter I asked my marina to remove and inspect the side vents and make sure the openings were properly sealed. They were fine...

I've definitely heard of a few folks having issues, but a good surveyor should be able to detect any delamination, and the vents are easy to inspect and reseal if necessary.
 

Fishtales

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
8,029
Reaction score
1,284
Points
113
All the bigger boats (30 and up I believe) use balsa coring. Would be interested in what is being used today. All comes down to how well the build was and if the owner did anything to bring it on.
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,529
Reaction score
1,420
Points
113
Location
NYC
All the bigger boats (30 and up I believe) use balsa coring. Would be interested in what is being used today. All comes down to how well the build was and if the owner did anything to bring it on.
I don't know if Grady still uses balsa but historically, many many hulls and boat panels/lids/etc were balsa cored. When properly infused with epoxy resin, balsa is strong, light and waterproof. On the other hand the end grain of balsa is a super sponge if not sealed completely. That is why hulls and panels are cored with pieces of end grain balsa where the end grain is perpendicular to the laminate surface. In simpler terms, the end grain is exposed, soaked with epoxy and then the laminations are applied. Balsa when wet and not sealed will break down quickly. Balsa was used above the water line on the sides but not in the transom as far as I know.

So if the issue was vents, then the openings for the vents were not sealed correctly OR the hull skins were not bedded completely leaving dry spots in the balsa end grain.. The issue was not a user issue , it was a manufacturing issue or even a design issue.
 

Fishtales

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
8,029
Reaction score
1,284
Points
113
I know they did in the past. May have switched to a non-wood material around 2010 or so. I'd check with GW as the transition from wood to non-wood was done over time versus a hard year cut in for all boat models.
 

Sailfish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2018
Messages
65
Reaction score
15
Points
8
Age
58
Many of these type of issues are owner inflicted in both Grady's and other boats. Owners drill holes for rod holders, snaps, eyes for flat lines, etc, but do not drill them oversized, fill with epoxy, and redrill. Instead they hope that the sealant on the screw threads with seal the holes. Water gets in, and delamination and rot ensue. Owners also neglect rebedding stanchions, hardtop supports, hatches, windows, etc. All of this allows water to infitrate.

It does appear Grady was guilty of not sealing some of the aft vents properly in the early 330s, and this allow water intrusion.