F200 Yearly Maintenance Questions.

[timberxx]

This weekend I completed my winter maintenance on my F200. It was my first time competing this work, and it took me nearly 2 hours. It was a pleasant experience, but I have three questions.

1. I read my owner's manual for the engine oil amount. Under the specifications it said that 6.3 quarts if you include the oil filter and 6.1 quarts if you don't change the filter. I used the drain plug method since I was unsure what the previous owner used for oil, and I wanted to start with a fresh slate with Yamalube.

I put in 6.3 quarts of oil since I changed the oil filter.

When I checked the oil amount I was surprised to see it so high on the dip stick. Under the cowling there was a sticker that the engine requires 6.1 quarts of oil with nothing stating a different amount for an oil filter change.

Would the extra .2 quarts do damage to my engine? How much oil would you have to add to damage an engine?

2. The fuel filter under my cowling has a red gasket in it. I assume that it moves up if there is water in the gas. Is this accurate?

3. I am still having problems with my freshwater tank. I put nearly two cups of bleach into the tank to kill growth about 4 months ago. I then flushed the tank once. The hose is clogged yet once again, but the filter at the pump is clear (and still has a little bleach odor). Can I blow air into the waterline (beyond the pump of course)?

Thanks guys.

 

[Doc Stressor]

I would drain some of that oil so that the level is between the full and add lines on the dipstick. It is not unusual for at least a half quart of oil to remain in the engine after it is drained. To much oil in the crankcase can cause too much pressure to build up, which can affect performance and damage the engine.

It's best to start out with the oil level below the full line. Outboards notoriously "make oil". Excess fuel washes down past the rings and causes the oil level to rise, particularly if the engine is operated at low speed.

2. The fuel filter under my cowling has a red gasket in it. I assume that it moves up if there is water in the gas. Is this accurate?

That is correct.

You need to use more bleach to remove gunk from the water system than it takes to simply sterilize the tank. The Handbook on Sanitation of Vessel Water Points, Public Health Service Publication No. 274 recommends 0.4 quart per 10 gallons. Mix the bleach with 1 gallon of water before pouring it into the tank. Then fill the tank, run each water system component to bring the bleach mixture into contact, then wait 3 hr before flushing the system several times.

It should not hurt to blow moderate air pressure (< 10 psi) through the system.

 

[timberxx]

Great response, thanks.

 

[BobP]

3 hrs may not do it.
Suggest overnite soak.

Can't understand why hose is getting clogged.
What color is gunk?

 

[timberxx]

The gunk in black.

Can excessive bleach damage the tank and hoses? does bleach eat away fiberglass?

 

[BobP]

Grady HQ posted recommendations in one of their newsletters for handling FW tanks with smell and black mold, and had quantities of clorox to use for shock and routine.

I recall figuring it being 12 oz for my 25 gallon tank, as shock.

Everything off the shelf I used didn't work, until I found $1.29 (on sale) per gallon clorox.

How ironic.

I would not exceed recommended dosages nor duration, I just do it more than once if needed, which has not been the case.

Typically twice per season, one to start and one midway - when the water starts to smell odd, kind of like sour. It normally smells somewhat like an indoor pool when faucet runs, so to speak.

And overnite soak, so I fill tank to brim in evening and in the morning run it out and refill it twice with nothing but water and run it out again - all faucets open.
Then refill it to stay as is.
Since my FW tank retains about a gallon of water (as moored in marina) when pump starts to push air, there will always to clorox remaining so I don't use routine dosage. Although we don't drink it, during showers and washing face it's not possible to have no water in ones mouth/on lips. So be careful, and kids may not know better and drink it. So it needs to be safe in case.

You may still have some black usually limited to places where water does not stay in contact always, like in fill hose, just below faucet connections, and top of tank, etc.
Sooner or later the faucet screens no longer will clog up. Just have to stay on it.

I know clorox will effect alum and stainless if exposed too long at too severe a concentration.
Grady uses polyethylene tanks, no effect, but I still would not go higher on clorox concentration. Just repeat shock until it smells good like I said.

Good luck!

 

[BobP]

I forgot to mention, HW heaters have alunimum tanks I believe, so take note.

 

[gw204]

If you didn't run the engine, you didn't fill the filter w/ oil and it will show higher than normal on the dipstick.

 

[dduflo]

If you followed the owners manual on draining the old oil, tipping the motor 1/2 way up and to the starboard side, then it should drain completely. Removing the dip stick so it vents helps. After refilling, be sure to use ear muffs so you don't damage water pump impeller when idling the motor for a minute or two then let it set for a little bit and recheck. Oil the rubber seal on the filter and do not tighten too tight or you will have a hell of a time getting them off. Like most things in life I learned this the hard way. When it is time to change the water pump impellers this site has great step by step instructions with detailed pictures.