F225 Power head corrosion

CKJR

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I know there has been lots of posts on f225 exhaust corrosion, This may be another f225 issue. I had to replace a starboard powerhead 2-3 years ago for corrosion behind the thermostat on the block. Guess what- my port block just corroded through from the inside out in the same location. Has any one else seen this issue? I would post photos but dont know how
 

bayrat

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CKJR said:
I know there has been lots of posts on f225 exhaust corrosion, This may be another f225 issue. I had to replace a starboard powerhead 2-3 years ago for corrosion behind the thermostat on the block. Guess what- my port block just corroded through from the inside out in the same location. Has any one else seen this issue? I would post photos but dont know how

I'm pretty sure that I have read some similar posts about this on other forums, but I don't think it's the same type of corrosion as the "dry exhaust" problem that affected a bunch 225's. Just curious; did you flush these engines regularly and replace the anodes? When previously replacing thermostats, was any corrosion noticed or do you think the corrosion come thru from the other side and couldn't be seen until it was too late? How many hours? A bummer for sure, especially if you maintained the engines .
 

CKJR

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ALWAYS FLUSHED, 850 hrs. starboard engine had similar block corrosion behind t stat that starts from inside out-the power head replaced 3 years ago at 550 hrs. both dry exhaust had corrosion which both were replaced when i had the power head redone. I changed t stats every 2 years & never saw problem. Checking into prices for 2nd new powerhead :-|
 

bayrat

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Ugh..thats bad. Were the anodes between the spark plugs ever replaced? Not sure if the f225 has anodes by the thermostat (my f250 does). Do you know if they were ever replaced? If they were replaced and it still rotted out, thats even worse. Hope you get a good deal on your powerhead.
 

Oceanbean

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Hi all, This is unfortunately another Yamaha issue. Corrosion at the T-stat housing. I have a pair of 2004 F225, 600 hrs. I was "fortunate" in that during my winterization this Nov, the shop I have do my work - knows to look for this. They probe the T-stat housing for corrosion. If the wall is permeable - they pull the powerhead and weld a sleeve in the Block of the T-stat housing. If not permeable, they apply an aluminum infused epoxy to the T-stat housing. It now becomes an annual inspection (an extra cost - because you have to pull a lot of stuff out of the way to get to the T-stats). I did the mid sections 2 years ago. I do flush after every use (engine warm) and change all the anodes. These motors are professionally serviced and maintained. Very disappointing. The motors run great. Now that I have done the mid sections, new oil pan, oil pumps, seals (the complete mid section job) due to corrosion and now the T-stat housing. I can only hope I can manage the corrosion "disease" to get a few more years out of these.

My understanding is the T-stat housing corrosion is not limited to the V6's four strokes, but has presented itself in all HP's of that genre. I suggest to all - inspect and take correction action. Maybe even pro-active application of the aluminum epoxy in the T-stat housing. What happens on the V-6's (I am only familiar with the V-6's) - if the T-stat housing is permeated, salt water blows out and gets sucked in the air intake - water in cylinders - hydraulic locked up, the motor is junk, and/or salt water is sprayed all over by the flywheel, motor soon be junk. This happened to a friend of mine this past summer.

OceanBean
2004 GW 282 F225's
Long Island, NY
 

CKJR

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Would That aluminum epoxy work after a hole in block has manifested itself? Who did the repair? I am looking for a few more years out of this expensive hunk of aluminum that the manufacturer does not stand behind!! The t stat blowout happened on the muffs out of the water. Yes the anodes were changed & were all not eroded away like you would expect.
 

fishin trip

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had the same corrosion of thermostat on 225 with 265 hours but out of warranty .blew salt water out of housing and into intake and shut down engine. the engine was always flushed by fresh water on the adapter on side of engine.The engine looked brand new but yamaha rep would not help at all.DON'T BUY A BOAT WITH EARLY 225 AND IF YOU HAVE ONE GET RID OF IT
 

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Hi CKJR - I do not think the epoxy will work if the housing is permeated. That was my problem. They pulled the PH, and sent out to weld a sleeve.
Accurate Marine in Bohemia, NY is where I have my motor's serviced. Call them - 631-589-5502
I have been to the Miami boat show the past two years. I have expressed to the GW management team how the Yamaha corrosion issues are hurting the resale of these boats which will come back around to impact new boat sales. They are fully aware of the problem, but say nothing. When I approach the Yamaha people - they are still in "denial" of a problem and go with the 10 year old motor defense. I then say, How can you justify amortizing "throw away" motors with a $46,000 repower bill every 8-10 years? They simply don't care. My concern is what assurances are there that these second generation 3.3 L or the newer 4.2 L V6 will be any better. Apparently there is a thrust bearing issue starting to surface. I know a lot of guys that are looking at something other than a Yamaha for the repower. Problem is they all seem to have some issues. Pick your poison.

Oceanbean
2004 GW 282 F225s
Long Island
 

CKJR

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Oceanbean, 1 agree with you 100%. When i had the issue with powerhead#1 6 months out of warranty in 2011, Yamaha did not want to hear my issue. At that time the exhaust legs were also corroded. Yamaha offered me $500 toward a new powerhead as a good gesture since i barked loud up and down their chain of command for answers. $12000 later i had 2 working motors. Now 3 years later i am facing a $9000 fix. The days of oil burning gas guzzling 2 stroke motors that run forever i miss.
 

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My 2004 F225s had the dry corrosion problem but the port engine also needed a new powerhead due to the hole in the block by the thermostat. As another poster said, it sprayed salt water into the intake manifold and corroded the valves so they wouldn't move.
Turns out the tstat is made of copper and the block is of aluminum so the dissimilar metals cause corrosion and the block loses. The sleeve is a good idea but it's a major job. I'm going to apply the aluminum infused epoxy this spring to the stbd engine block in the hopes it will strengthen the area and act as a barrier. I'm also going to apply a light coating to the copper on the tstat. I'll also apply a shield of some sort to deflect the water if the block winds up getting a hole to prevent it from getting into the intake manifold. I don't need another giant bill for a new powerhead....