First boat stupid question

Pogigod

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I just bought my first boat, a 1987 overnighter. I've been fixing her up all week, just minor stuff. after washing her up I decided to check the bilge pump. The switch doesn't do anything and when I put the plug in and put some water down in the bilge, it didn't auto kick on.

Two questions, how much water needs to be in the bilge for the float to switch on? She is at an angle since I was power washing all week and wanted to drain the water.


Next question, which I feel like an idiot for asking, how do I get to the bilge on this boat lol. The back two seats I have removed the storage bins and am at the batteries. But the bilge is another level below that. The only 2 panels I haven't opened are the fuel tank panel and the panel right by the motor. Both of which are sealed up. I don't want to break a seal if I don't have to.

Thank you in advance!
 

Sparkdog118

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Is there a pie plate just in front of the engine in the motor well? Either screws out or pry out. Sometimes if I need to be in there a while I unscrew the outside ring and remove that too to give more access.
 

Pogigod

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Thank you, I had unscrewed it before but didn't want to force it open. It was really stuck on.
 

Sparkdog118

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Gotta check power to the auto float switch. Cheap light tester works great. Usually a brown with a white stripe. Not sure in your case.
1587513797523.jpeg
this is what I made to put into my bilge. It is mounted to the back wall of the transom and can be removed to wire, service, or replace parts. If you are interested, I can give you the details.
 

Sparkdog118

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That is the access. The plates are cheap. If it is stuck, I’d replace it so you can have easy access in an emergency
 

Sparkdog118

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Rabud pry up ones are good. I like the pry up since they seal better. Use Vaseline on the o ring to keep it fresh. Maybe if you lube the one you have it may get easier too.
 

Fishtales

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Check for voltage first. Pump and or switch likely need replacing. I'd do it for piece of mind alone.
 

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Often there is an old crimped connection that has failed or corroded badly. With switch on be sure you are getting voltage, then work from there. If you aren't getting voltage I'd check the connections behind the switch panel. They corrode and loosen.

Also, run 12 V direct to the pump to check function. They generally don't die, but you never know what previous owners have done ...

Cut wires off - re crimp connections and seal with heat shrink.

You were smart to check this out!
 

Pogigod

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Often there is an old crimped connection that has failed or corroded badly. With switch on be sure you are getting voltage, then work from there. If you aren't getting voltage I'd check the connections behind the switch panel. They corrode and loosen.

Also, run 12 V direct to the pump to check function. They generally don't die, but you never know what previous owners have done ...

Cut wires off - re crimp connections and seal with heat shrink.

You were smart to check this out!
I wanted to upgrade/ put a backup in anyway. A 800gph I feel is pretty small. I'm ganna put in a 1500 and a 500. The 500 is not going to be mounted so I can pull it out and use it to bring water on the deck while out to hose down the deck and fill up my custom livewell.
 

Holokai

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I wanted to upgrade/ put a backup in anyway. A 800gph I feel is pretty small. I'm ganna put in a 1500 and a 500. The 500 is not going to be mounted so I can pull it out and use it to bring water on the deck while out to hose down the deck and fill up my custom livewell.

If you upsize to the 1500 you’ll want to check your wiring and fuse/breaker for proper sizing. Blue Sea calculator or any wire sizing chart will tell you what gauge wire should be used for they current and total run length.

There are a lot of articles on wire/breaker/fuse sizing, etc. on this and other boat forums that explain things really well. Google is your friend here but let us know if you have questions.
 

Fishtales

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make sure you have the right size hose and thru hull diameter to move the water overboard.