First Grady White - 228

[killbipp]

I'm in the process of buying a 2014 Seafarer 228. It will be in a slip on a freshwater lake with lock access to Puget Sound. Our first real fishing boat, and family will use for fun, too. It looks to be in great condition, giving it a sea test on Friday. Any advice greatly appreciated!
- Motor is an electronic Yamaha 250 with 600+ hours. Any issues with these motors that I should try to identify on the test run? Right size for the job?
- Installing a new T9.9XPB 4-stroke Yamaha kicker on the swim deck for salmon trolling and emergency power. Are these good motors for the job?
- Radar, sounder, radio, fishfinder are a new SIMRAD package being installed next week. Any reservations about SIMRAD?
- Any idiosyncracies of the 228 that I should check while I'm there and have my flashlight out? Am I an idiot for not getting a full marine survey?
- Any mods or accessories for the 228 that you'd recommend that I should get the dealer to install?
- I've never pulled a tube/ski with an outboard, any advice on a fool-proof system that I could set up for family?
- There is no head. Recs for a portable system and where to store it much appreciated, planning on some overnight trips to the San Juans.
- Products to help keep the boat in good shape? I'll have it a long time.

Thanks,

Bill

 

[wrxhoon]

I have a 2013 228 with 250 Yamaha 4.2, ( my second 228) same as the one you are buying. I use it for fishing ( nothing else) I take her up to 40+ miles offshore chasing Marlin and Tuna on the east coast of Australia, good sea boat and plenty deck space for 3-4 anglers. The 250 Yam is totally adequate for the job but if I re-power I would install a 300. Do I need a 300? I don't think so but I like max power and the price difference is not that great.
I have the digital gear change as well and it is great much better than cable, I don't know how durable it is my boat only has 300 hours .
10 hp kicker will be great for slow trolling, I don't use a kicker, we troll at 7-8 knots nut I fished for salmon in your part of the world in a 232 and 9.9 kicker.
I don't have a radar but I have SIMRAD NSS12 Evo3 Multifuction Display MFD Touchscreen with 1 kw transducer and Auto pilot. I installed these when I bought the boat a little over a year ago. They work perfect for my application. If you only use it for salmon you don't need a big transducer, save your money.
On test make sure the engine revs out to 6000 or very close to it on calm water trimmed out ( should have a 17" pitch prop) clean bottom.
If I was you I would do a full marine survey, you are investing around the $60 k paying $300-400 for a survey wouldn't break the bank. Make sure you do an oil analysis, these engines can make oil, as do a lot of 4 stroke outboards, depending on how they were run in.
The boats are very solid but it will depend on how they looked after her, check for moisture and look for holes on the transom drilled to fit accessories especially if she was kept on the water. I wouldn't buy a boat that size with bottom paint because that is an indicator she was kept on the water.
Most 228s have a porta poti , just buy one, it fits on the front of the cabin, mine even has a pump out system ( I never use it).

I keep mine covered on a trailer, wash it and flash the engine after a fishing trip. I have an older 228 for about 7 years bought her used gelcoat was dull I buffed and polished her when I got her , 5 years later I waxed with collinite fleetwax she was still shiny whe I sold her.

If you are buying the boat in OR she looks clean and no bottom paint indicates trailer or lift kept. I don't know what the rear rails are for or the round hole on the dash.


Good luck with the test .

 

[leeccoll]

Bill,
What wrxhoon said about getting a professional survey done and engine oil analysis would be my top 2 suggestions. Kicker will make you happy. They are pretty bulletproof.
228 is a solid vessel, good luck!
Lee

 

[Ky Grady]

Not much to add to wrxhoon's post. Love my 228. Previous owners care is a big factor on overall condition. Being a '14, you should be good, maybe a good bath. If used in saltwater, be sure to pop inspection plates off over fuel tank and give it a freshwater flush annually. The F250 is the ideal motor for the hull, of course if rated for the 300, can always repower down the road.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Another 228 in the PNW. I bought my 228 in November and I'm also in Seattle. Sounds like you're on Lake Washington. If you don't fish now are you sure you want to get into it? Salmon fishing is expensive LOL. Sounds like you've got a good plan though. A Yamaha T8 or T9.9 (both high thrust) are the best motor for salmon trolling. Here's some things you also need for the 228 to troll salmon.

If you want to simplify your life in Washington, buy Scotty products, lifetime warranty and that's what everyone fishes. Tons of support and I feel they are the best. Locally made etc. (IE don't buy Canon)

Despite Grady have the ladder on the port side, I wish I would have mounted my kicker there. PITA having it on the Starboard side for multiple reasons.

- Swim step mounted bracket - PDR in Bellingham makes a nice one, (I made mine).
- Steering link to Main. (need to have)
- Fancy version: https://amzn.to/2v7d7Jv
- simple version: https://amzn.to/2T2VFyE
- Electronic Throttle controller (very nice to have) - https://amzn.to/2v7d7Jv
- Scotty electric downriggers. Don't buy manuals' you won't be happy. (1106 is a perfect model) - Get the high-speed ones if you want to blow through belts a lot. https://amzn.to/2Vpbth5
Then buy all the plugs etc you need for the scottys. I use gimble rod holder mounts so I don't have to drill holes in boat like I did in previous boats: https://amzn.to/2Tfg6HG


Sounds like you're paying to have all this done, I'd have them install all this. The dealer will know what you're talking about if they fish.

Good luck and welcome to the PNW Grady club. All the guys on the BloodyDeck fishing forum know Grady owners as Grady Pricks so be aware .

CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE SCUPPERS.

 

[killbipp]

I have a 2013 228 with 250 Yamaha 4.2, ( my second 228) same as the one you are buying. I use it for fishing ( nothing else) I take her up to 40+ miles offshore chasing Marlin and Tuna on the east coast of Australia, good sea boat and plenty deck space for 3-4 anglers. The 250 Yam is totally adequate for the job but if I re-power I would install a 300. Do I need a 300? I don't think so but I like max power and the price difference is not that great.
I have the digital gear change as well and it is great much better than cable, I don't know how durable it is my boat only has 300 hours .
10 hp kicker will be great for slow trolling, I don't use a kicker, we troll at 7-8 knots nut I fished for salmon in your part of the world in a 232 and 9.9 kicker.
I don't have a radar but I have SIMRAD NSS12 Evo3 Multifuction Display MFD Touchscreen with 1 kw transducer and Auto pilot. I installed these when I bought the boat a little over a year ago. They work perfect for my application. If you only use it for salmon you don't need a big transducer, save your money.
On test make sure the engine revs out to 6000 or very close to it on calm water trimmed out ( should have a 17" pitch prop) clean bottom.
If I was you I would do a full marine survey, you are investing around the $60 k paying $300-400 for a survey wouldn't break the bank. Make sure you do an oil analysis, these engines can make oil, as do a lot of 4 stroke outboards, depending on how they were run in.
The boats are very solid but it will depend on how they looked after her, check for moisture and look for holes on the transom drilled to fit accessories especially if she was kept on the water. I wouldn't buy a boat that size with bottom paint because that is an indicator she was kept on the water.
Most 228s have a porta poti , just buy one, it fits on the front of the cabin, mine even has a pump out system ( I never use it).

I keep mine covered on a trailer, wash it and flash the engine after a fishing trip. I have an older 228 for about 7 years bought her used gelcoat was dull I buffed and polished her when I got her , 5 years later I waxed with collinite fleetwax she was still shiny whe I sold her.

If you are buying the boat in OR she looks clean and no bottom paint indicates trailer or lift kept. I don't know what the rear rails are for or the round hole on the dash.


Good luck with the test .

This is incredibly helpful, thank you. Yes, it is the boat in Oregon. I might reach out in the future once I figure out what the heck I'm doing, if that's ok.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Sorry for the long response but you asked 3 years' worth of boat questions in one post. I also use my boat as a family boat for tubing etc. Works fine. You have 2 connection options. Tow from stern eyes or from your hardtop. For kids on tubes either will work fine.

Use this bridle for stern eyes. Watch it though as it may rub the paint off your motor in certain positions. https://amzn.to/2Vqjpyo

For really fat guys I'd only use stern eyes vs hard top. Though I used to wakeboard from my old Proline Hardtop which is very similar to Gradys. I didn't use bridle on hard top. Find some secure connection points. My rocket launcher bracket looks weak to me.

 

[killbipp]

Another 228 in the PNW. I bought my 228 in November and I'm also in Seattle. Sounds like you're on Lake Washington. If you don't fish now are you sure you want to get into it? Salmon fishing is expensive LOL. Sounds like you've got a good plan though. A Yamaha T8 or T9.9 (both high thrust) are the best motor for salmon trolling. Here's some things you also need for the 228 to troll salmon.

If you want to simplify your life in Washington, buy Scotty products, lifetime warranty and that's what everyone fishes. Tons of support and I feel they are the best. Locally made etc. (IE don't buy Canon)

Despite Grady have the ladder on the port side, I wish I would have mounted my kicker there. PITA having it on the Starboard side for multiple reasons.

- Swim step mounted bracket - PDR in Bellingham makes a nice one, (I made mine).
- Steering link to Main. (need to have)
- Fancy version: https://amzn.to/2v7d7Jv
- simple version: https://amzn.to/2T2VFyE
- Electronic Throttle controller (very nice to have) - https://amzn.to/2v7d7Jv
- Scotty electric downriggers. Don't buy manuals' you won't be happy. (1106 is a perfect model) - Get the high-speed ones if you want to blow through belts a lot. https://amzn.to/2Vpbth5
Then buy all the plugs etc you need for the scottys. I use gimble rod holder mounts so I don't have to drill holes in boat like I did in previous boats: https://amzn.to/2Tfg6HG


Sounds like you're paying to have all this done, I'd have them install all this. The dealer will know what you're talking about if they fish.

Good luck and welcome to the PNW Grady club. All the guys on the BloodyDeck fishing forum know Grady owners as Grady Pricks so be aware .

CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE SCUPPERS.

Excellent, thank you. I troll a bit for salmon on my kayak, but I need to get up the learning curve with downriggers on real boats. This is very helpful. I use Scotty rod holders and fishfinder mount on my kayak, have had good luck with it. The swim ladder on this boat is mounted starboard, and I'm getting the same bracket for the kicker (port side of swim deck) that the previous owner used, so (hopefully) no new holes to drill. I'm new to the area but you seem to know it well. Sister is on Lake Union and has a slip. Maybe once I know how to actually get through the lock to the Sound I'll hit you up for more tips if that is OK. Thanks for the heads up on the BloodyDeck : )

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Good, keep kicker on port, great setup. Happy to answer any questions. I've been working on mine non-stop since I've got it. to get it outfited the way I want it for Salmon. I know another 228 owner at the Queens Yachtclub (lake union) I think. He's on this forum.

 

[wrxhoon]

This is incredibly helpful, thank you. Yes, it is the boat in Oregon. I might reach out in the future once I figure out what the heck I'm doing, if that's ok.

You are welcome, you can contact me anytime if you need advice, happy to pass on what I know and what I don't someone else will know on this forum. I find most of the guys here are very helpful.
For the record I use Scotty down-riggers on the rare occasions that I fish for yellow tail kingfish and I find them excellent. I mostly use outriggers and fast trolling for Marlin, Tuna, Mahi and wahoo .
My old boat was used in a lake in GA , she had a ski pole mounted at the rear through the gunwale and bolted on the 3x2 horizontal cross-member. I pulled it off and used the hole to run water for my tuna tubes. If you need a photo of it, let me know as I still have it .

Again good luck with the water test,

 

[killbipp]

I'm in the process of buying a 2014 Seafarer 228. It will be in a slip on a freshwater lake with lock access to Puget Sound. Our first real fishing boat, and family will use for fun, too. It looks to be in great condition, giving it a sea test on Friday. Any advice greatly appreciated!
- Motor is an electronic Yamaha 250 with 600+ hours. Any issues with these motors that I should try to identify on the test run? Right size for the job?
- Installing a new T9.9XPB 4-stroke Yamaha kicker on the swim deck for salmon trolling and emergency power. Are these good motors for the job?
- Radar, sounder, radio, fishfinder are a new SIMRAD package being installed next week. Any reservations about SIMRAD?
- Any idiosyncracies of the 228 that I should check while I'm there and have my flashlight out? Am I an idiot for not getting a full marine survey?
- Any mods or accessories for the 228 that you'd recommend that I should get the dealer to install?
- I've never pulled a tube/ski with an outboard, any advice on Ia fool-proof system that I could set up for family?
- There is no head. Recs for a portable system and where to store it much appreciated, planning on some overnight trips to the San Juans.
- Products to help keep the boat in good shape? I'll have it a long time.

Thanks,

Bill

Thank you for all of the advice! The water test went very well. A few follow-up questions below if any of you have the time or inclination.

- I think the boat has a 15" pitch prop vs, 17". With three of us on board and half a tank it got up to 6200 rpm in flat water. Should I swap out the 15" for a 17"? The boat was really fantastic, stable in big chop, planed very quickly, great turning radius, very smooth, no slap. Amazed at how nice these boats are.

- The swim platform seems to be very heavy duty. Do I need a bracket for the 9.9 hp that is being installed, or could they just put it directly on the platform?

- The previous owner never unrolled the canvas and it is brittle, one plastic window has a crack. Is it a big expense to have the canvas redone (any recs for the Seattle area appreciated)?

- I ordered two Scotty 1106 downriggers ($501 each no tax no shipping at Anchor Express) and gimbal mounts. I'm going to try to install the outlets myself, but we'll see. Any advice/pictures on where to put the outlet holes would be helpful.

- I got a Lewmar Claw 16.5lb anchor, 15' x 1/4" chain, 250' x 1/2" rode. Will this work OK in Puget Sound and Lakes Union & Washington?

Thanks again,
Bill

 

[PNW_Drifter]

With a 250 you could probably spin a 17p prop just fine. But I'd wait to swap until you have more time on the boat. What speed did you have at 6200rpm?

Downrigger sockets are easy to install, just get some 12 awg marine wire and add a fuse to each one inline to the battery. I wired one to each battery but that's up to you. Your kicker will charge up your batteries as you troll. I put mine into the starboard between the rod holders.

Get this 5 pack of fuses on Amazon and you'll be set: https://amzn.to/32Ssn9q

Not sure about the swim step, I bought then modified a bracket, about $80. Here's a good thread of kicker examples: https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/kicker-motors.25321/

Anchor setup sounds great. Mine came with a Rocna which is a little better but if you don't anchor overnight I wouldn't spend the extra money.

 

[seasick]

Regarding the canvas. If the canvas itself is in decent shape and only the clear vinyl is shot, a canvas shop can replace the clear plastic. That will be a lot less expensive than having all new curtains made.

 

[Fishtales]

I find there are three issues to deal with the canvas. (1) the strata or Eisen glass, (2) the fabric and (3) stitching.
If you do one the others either go or look like crap. I'd call A&J Canvas in Vanceboro NC and get a new enclosure. Yep, a little more but you will be happy.

 

[Lite Tackle]

I mounted my Scotty sockets using the Scotty #2128 Marinco Electric Socket Right Angle Mount just inside the horizontal rod holder hole at the stern on each side. Hidden from view and direct water contact, no visible mounting holes, short cable run to batteries and keeps cord from downrigger clear from snagging. When plugging in downrigger it is easy to do from battery boxes.
You can see the holes I’m referring to at the middle left in picture.

 

[killbipp]

With a 250 you could probably spin a 17p prop just fine. But I'd wait to swap until you have more time on the boat. What speed did you have at 6200rpm?

Downrigger sockets are easy to install, just get some 12 awg marine wire and add a fuse to each one inline to the battery. I wired one to each battery but that's up to you. Your kicker will charge up your batteries as you troll. I put mine into the starboard between the rod holders.

Get this 5 pack of fuses on Amazon and you'll be set: https://amzn.to/32Ssn9q

Not sure about the swim step, I bought then modified a bracket, about $80. Here's a good thread of kicker examples: https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/kicker-motors.25321/

Anchor setup sounds great. Mine came with a Rocna which is a little better but if you don't anchor overnight I wouldn't spend the extra money.

Thank you. I’ll stick with the prop we have for now. We were going 38-42 mph at 6200 rpm.

 

[killbipp]

Gr

I mounted my Scotty sockets using the Scotty #2128 Marinco Electric Socket Right Angle Mount just inside the horizontal rod holder hole at the stern on each side. Hidden from view and direct water contact, no visible mounting holes, short cable run to batteries and keeps cord from downrigger clear from snagging. When plugging in downrigger it is easy to do from battery boxes.View attachment 11262
You can see the holes I’m referring to at the middle left in picture.

Great! I like this plan. Thank you.

 

[wrxhoon]

Thank you for all of the advice! The water test went very well. A few follow-up questions below if any of you have the time or inclination.

- I think the boat has a 15" pitch prop vs, 17". With three of us on board and half a tank it got up to 6200 rpm in flat water. Should I swap out the 15" for a 17"? The boat was really fantastic, stable in big chop, planed very quickly, great turning radius, very smooth, no slap. Amazed at how nice these boats are.

- The swim platform seems to be very heavy duty. Do I need a bracket for the 9.9 hp that is being installed, or could they just put it directly on the platform?

- The previous owner never unrolled the canvas and it is brittle, one plastic window has a crack. Is it a big expense to have the canvas redone (any recs for the Seattle area appreciated)?

- I ordered two Scotty 1106 downriggers ($501 each no tax no shipping at Anchor Express) and gimbal mounts. I'm going to try to install the outlets myself, but we'll see. Any advice/pictures on where to put the outlet holes would be helpful.

- I got a Lewmar Claw 16.5lb anchor, 15' x 1/4" chain, 250' x 1/2" rode. Will this work OK in Puget Sound and Lakes Union & Washington?

Thanks again,
Bill

I have the same boat as you one year older with the same 4.2, 250 hp, I'm spinning a 17" and it is perfect I can get 5900-5950 in calmwater full load of fuel plenty of gear and 3-4 on board. I don't know why your boat has a 15" prop.
The swim platform is all aluminum, one piece with the bracket and much bigger than the older boats, you could probably hand your kicker on it. If I was you I would contact Grady and ask them. In older boats the swim platform was F/Glass and separate to the bracket , the older boats were rated 250 HP , our boats are 300. Our brackets are longer as well and the boat reverses better than the old ones as the motor is further back and the prop wash doesn't hit the transom as much as in the old boats.
I can't help you with the damaged clear as I'm not there .
Downriggers are easy to install, i put a S/S plate under mine but you should be fine without ( with some S/S washers) the gunnel is cored and very strong, make sure you seal the holes so no water gets in the core.
15' chain is not enough for windy or rough water, fine for calm water.

I hope you enjoy your new boat.

 

[DoctorOctopus]

Maybe I'm blind, or not good at "where's Waldo" but I don't see what your are referring to in the horizontal rod holder where the hose is stored.

I mounted my Scotty sockets using the Scotty #2128 Marinco Electric Socket Right Angle Mount just inside the horizontal rod holder hole at the stern on each side. Hidden from view and direct water contact, no visible mounting holes, short cable run to batteries and keeps cord from downrigger clear from snagging. When plugging in downrigger it is easy to do from battery boxes.View attachment 11262
You can see the holes I’m referring to at the middle left in picture.

 

[Lite Tackle]

the holes to the right of the Lowrance MFD in the pic is an ideal place to run the power cable of the downrigigger. Mount socket in battery box behind and you have drilled 0 viewable holes and power cable is out of the way.