Hello, this is a great site. Just bought a 1989 20ft. overnighter and I"ll have lots of questions. Right now I want to refinish the engine bracket any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks, John
First Grady White
- Thread starter Got Bass Charters
- Start date
Welcome Aboard.. Just ask anything you want here, because somebody has already done it to there boat or know the way to do it. This place is a wealth of info on Grady's.. Post of some pics. of your "new girl"... :lol:
Got Bass Charters said:
I am in the process of doing just that.
If it is the Grady Drive bracket....10 bolts (5 on each side) and one stud mounted on the bracket with the nuts on the inboard side of the transom. An impact wrench works great. There is a a large foam core inside the bracket. It comes out. I'm having mine powder coated as we speak ($200.00) inside and outside. I was suprised when I got the bracket off to find that it was never painted on the inside :shock: . I'm not sure what the reasoning is behind that.
Next week she gets new bottom paint.
HD
The aluminum alloy forms aluminum oxide (white powder), which self protects it from further loss to anything but galvanic corrosion. Just like what happens on your outboard lower unit gearbox/skeg.
If your drive has a mini sump with the drain plug in it, it's for draining any minor water collection annually.
Make sure the foam block goes back in, it's a matter of safety you put it back.
On speaking about the no interior paint issue, ironically, the professional marina mechanics / professional boat painters are the ones (usually) with the responsibility to maintain the drive correctly outside, have they been doing their job ?
Good thing they didn't figure out a way to get inside and paint the inside.
And just like your outboard, make sure the drive zincs are maintained properly.
ANOTHER GRADY DRIVE SAVED !!
If your drive has a mini sump with the drain plug in it, it's for draining any minor water collection annually.
Make sure the foam block goes back in, it's a matter of safety you put it back.
On speaking about the no interior paint issue, ironically, the professional marina mechanics / professional boat painters are the ones (usually) with the responsibility to maintain the drive correctly outside, have they been doing their job ?
Good thing they didn't figure out a way to get inside and paint the inside.
And just like your outboard, make sure the drive zincs are maintained properly.
ANOTHER GRADY DRIVE SAVED !!
The aluminum alloy forms aluminum oxide (white powder), which self protects it from further loss to anything but galvanic corrosion. Just like what happens on your outboard lower unit gearbox/skeg.
Yep, had lots of white powder on the inside
If your drive has a mini sump with the drain plug in it, it's for draining any minor water collection annually. [/b][/b]
I did have a drain plug. Ended up having to drill the thing out. I don't think the previous owner ever pulled it. Got about 8 gallons of water out.
Make sure the foam block goes back in, it's a matter of safety you put it back.
Idid save the foam block. Once it is done I'll replace it.
On speaking about the no interior paint issue, ironically, the professional marina mechanics / professional boat painters are the ones (usually) with the responsibility to maintain the drive correctly outside, have they been doing their job ?
The paint on the drive was flaking really bad when I bought the boat. So I knew it would require paint.
And just like your outboard, make sure the drive zincs are maintained properly.
New zinks will be put on. The old one was in rought shape
ANOTHER GRADY DRIVE SAVED !!
You bet. Have you seen the price of a replacement :shock: All of the corrosion was surface. So I was lucky.
Thanks
HD
Yep, had lots of white powder on the inside
If your drive has a mini sump with the drain plug in it, it's for draining any minor water collection annually. [/b][/b]
I did have a drain plug. Ended up having to drill the thing out. I don't think the previous owner ever pulled it. Got about 8 gallons of water out.
Make sure the foam block goes back in, it's a matter of safety you put it back.
Idid save the foam block. Once it is done I'll replace it.
On speaking about the no interior paint issue, ironically, the professional marina mechanics / professional boat painters are the ones (usually) with the responsibility to maintain the drive correctly outside, have they been doing their job ?
The paint on the drive was flaking really bad when I bought the boat. So I knew it would require paint.
And just like your outboard, make sure the drive zincs are maintained properly.
New zinks will be put on. The old one was in rought shape
ANOTHER GRADY DRIVE SAVED !!
You bet. Have you seen the price of a replacement :shock: All of the corrosion was surface. So I was lucky.
Thanks
HD
gw204 said:
Yep....and they figured no one would ever take a peek inside
. Just think, they saved a few bucks on paint.HD
It may have been leaking because the inspection cover(s) was improperly set in place, as mine was when I bought it, serviced by dealer (professional). Screws were stripped, good for holding nothing. Screws installed by dealer.
Blame Grady for that ?
8 gals is not "residual" water, it's a lull bore leak, probably making up the remaining non-foam voids, filling it to the top(?)
Where was it leaking from do you think ?
Any pits on the outside in lower half ? Look like apple worm holes, but smaller ?
Blame Grady for that ?
8 gals is not "residual" water, it's a lull bore leak, probably making up the remaining non-foam voids, filling it to the top(?)
Where was it leaking from do you think ?
Any pits on the outside in lower half ? Look like apple worm holes, but smaller ?
BobP said:
The inspection plate appeared to be sealed and before I could removed it I had to cut the sealent away so I could pry the thing off. Once I got the inspection plate off I ran my hand down the side of the foam. I could feel dampness. I really didn't find the water until I removed (or drilled out) the bottom drain plug. Filled up a 5 gal bucket and then some.
I think the water had to becoming in from a high spot, like one of the lower engine mount bolts. If it was coming in at or below the water line I would have expected it to drain back out. Not so. This was trapped water.
One thing for sure is that I'll make sure I seal and then seal again all the areas were water MAY get into the bracket. Some one had a good idea I'd wished I'd done to find the soure of the leak. That is stick a water hose inside the bracket and fill it up with water. Sounds like that would work.
HD