Fischer Panda Valve Adjustment

[HMBJack]

Has anyone done a Valve Adjustment on their Fischer Panda?

Mine has 723 hours on it and has never had a valve adjustment.
I think this should be done every 300 hours.
Looking for any tips from those who have done this.

Thanks,
Jack
2006 330 Express
with FP 4200 KW Generator

 

[seasick]

Found this online:


Tools:
• 22mm, 10mm, 11mm spanner
• Screwdriver
• Gap Feeler Gauge
1. Ensure engine is completely cold (very important!)
2. Remove valve cover - 10mm spanner.
3. Turn crankshaft pulley with 22mm spanner until valve to be adjusted is closed and gap bet-
ween the valve and the rocker arm is at its maximum - see Fig. B.36, "Closed valve," on
Page 35.
4. Check the valve gap with the feeler gauge. The gap should be between 0.145mm and
0.185mm. The feeler gauge should slide with light contact between valve and rocker arm.
5. If adjustment is necessary, release the locknut with 11mm soanner and adjust the gap to the
reqired clearance with the screwdriver. Re-toghten the locknut then re.check the clearance if
required. Repeat adjustment if necessary.
6. Repeat whole procedure for the other valves.
7. Replace valve cover gasket, replace calve cover and tighten screw to torque: 3,9 t

 

[wspitler]

I did it and it wasn't that difficult. If you are used to using a feeler gauge it is easily accessible.

 

[HMBJack]

You're Awesome Seasick and Bill. Thank you!

In reading a Farymann Diesel booklet that came with my Generator, it shows:

#1
To do the adjustment at TDC (cold engine) with the "automatic decompression device in operating position"
I assume I hand crank the drive shaft until it gets to TDC. I can do this with a 10mm open end wrench inserted into the key slot on the drive shaft (facing port). Then use a long screw driver in the other end of the wrench to turn it (clockwise).

#2
To adjust valve clearance to .2mm on each valve (Vs. .145 to .185mm above). I'll check with FP Tech Support on this.

I've done valve adjustments before (VW Bug) so I think once I do this once, I'll be an expert!

Again - thank you Bill and Seasick for your help!

 

[grady33]

I’m in the same boat as you. Generator has 800+ hours and has never had valve adjustment. Any chance when you do it you could take some photos. Looks easy but always nervous doing mechanical work the first time. Changed out the fuel pump over the Summer and added a new fuel filter with visible bowl. Only other issue we’ve had is the starter was replaced few years back. Regular oil changes and water pump and belts! Great little engine and runs AC, Fish Box freezer plates, charger and fridge - no problem!

 

[HMBJack]

I just completed the Valve Adjustment. It was easier than I thought. Here's a few notes:

1. 13mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the heart shaped valve cover down.

2. The nylon washers under these bolts are snug. Very snug. Like they are threaded. I unscrewed the washers to avoid breaking them

3. I used a 10mm combo wrench - open end (on one end) and box wrench (on the other end). Put a long strong screwdriver in the box end. Then you use the open end to fit into the key on the drive shaft (down low) facing port. You crank the engine with the long strong screwdriver until you get a valve fully down, and the other fully UP. I manually rotate the shaft clockwise.

4. Adjust the gap on the top of the valve that is UP to .2mm (my white FP sound case has a label showing this as well as my Owner's Manual). Use an 11mm open end wrench + flat head screw driver to make this adjustment. Check it again after you do this adjustment. My Valves, after 723 hours were definitely opened past .2mm (perhaps from wear).

5. Repeat for the other valve by manually cranking the drive shift so that Valve is UP.

6. Then you put the Valve cover back on and you're done.


As to your fuel filter with the visible bowl underneath it, this may pose a fire threat. The all metal housings are used for a reason - they are less prone to leaking fuel if the generator goes hay wire. Just sayin...

 

[seasick]

HMBJack, you are correct about the clear bowl on the filter. Plastic bowls are not permitted per the regs in engine compartments. The reason is that in the event of a fire, the bowl could burn ( i.e. it is a combustible part)

 

[Fishtales]

Surprised to see it there. Was this by the manufacturer or someone that worked on the boat at one time. Hopefully the latter.

 

[HMBJack]

It's got to be a retrofit as Grady-White wouldn't sell a boat with one like that in an "engine compartment".

However, it's a low risk item since the FP will shut itself down in the event of an over heat condition.
It's a diesel (not gas) and in it's own casing.
Still, if not changed, I'd be fast, rather very fast, with a fire extinguisher if I smelled smoke!