Fitted trailer bunks for a 22' Seafarer?

Seafarer_Bob

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I bought a new Load Rite bunk trailer rated for 6k lbs from the Grady dealer I bought my boat from a few years ago. The issue I'm having is the bunks are not flat to the hull so the sharp lower edge is grinding off my gelcoat. I brought it back to the dealer and another Load Rite dealer who both failed to address the issue.

In the attached photo i circled the gap in the back and the front is more acute due to the sharper V entry up there. Does anyone sell a pre-fabricated angled 2×4 that's cut at the proper angle which I can tack on the existing bunks? I'm considering putting galvanized spacers under the outer uprite supports to create an angle but I doubt that will solve the issue. Another is putting the bunks on hinged supports but the only hinges in seeing online for that purpose are for much smaller skiffs and 2x4 or 2x6 bunks.

I'm sure I'm not the only one so please let me know what others have done. The Grady dealer I bought the trailer from insisted a roller trailer is a bad idea for this boat and I'd rather not do a major retrofit like that at this point. 20230824_132457.jpg20230824_132457.jpg
 

Halfhitch

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Are you sure your gelcoat is worn through or are you just seeing a little black streak of melted plastic from the bunk-slick material?
 

mjm1957

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I have the same boat and a roller trailer and it is great. Never would have a bunk trailer. My brother has a bunk trailer for his Kencraft and it is an absolute nightmare to get off and on the trailer.
 

Coastboater

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Swivel brackets may be the cheapest way to get more hull contact and use existing bunks. Also, I had a trailer built for a 225 and the builder “pigeon towed” the bunks to best fit the SV hull. The forward bunk brackets were 2-3” closer together than the rear brackets.
 

Seafarer_Bob

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I have the same boat and a roller trailer and it is great. Never would have a bunk trailer. My brother has a bunk trailer for his Kencraft and it is an absolute nightmare to get off and on the trailer.
Not quite a nightmare but it's a beast to crank all the way on and need to skid the truck in reverse to get it off.

This may be a contributing factor to the gell coat rubbing but I think most of the wear occurs as I'm bouncing along the road. And for those wondering, yes, I do strap the bow and stern down properly.
 

Seafarer_Bob

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Swivel brackets may be the cheapest way to get more hull contact and use existing bunks. Also, I had a trailer built for a 225 and the builder “pigeon towed” the bunks to best fit the SV hull. The forward bunk brackets were 2-3” closer together than the rear brackets.
I like the "pigeon toe" idea. Part of the issue is also my bunks are too far forward so I'm planning to move them 12" back so they end just before my transom edge and while I'm at it I'm going to add 1 or two 5" Galvanized Trailer Frame Straps on top of that 3" cross bar as spacers to the outboard sides of the bracket, this should to increase the angle and maintain strength / stability.
 

luckydude

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Get an end tie at a harbor, get some actual bunk felt, pull those bunks and redo them with the felt. I have this and it's easy on, easy off:


That plastic or whatever that stuff is, looks like it would be miserable to drive on/off. The felt slides nicely, not as nice as rollers but then your boat doesn't slide off onto the ramp either ;-)
 

Mustang65fbk

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Does the top part of the bunk that the boat rests on have the staples like as can be seen in the picture? If so, I'd think that could be the culprit as to why it's getting scratched up, especially if the staples are sitting above the rubber or plastic on the bunks.
 

DennisG01

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Generally speaking, a bunk trailer will center a boat better as it comes on the trailer and make loading a little easier. I've had many bunk trailers with all kinds of boats and I really like them. I have a roller trailer with this particular Grady and I like it, too. But a bunk would make loading/unloading even easier.

The plastic actually makes it slide quite a bit easier than carpet - the plastic is a nice upgrade.

About the only time you have problems with a bunk will be if you can't get the trailer in far enough to get close to floating the rear end.

Maybe you're just not getting the trailer into the water at the proper depth to make loading/unloading easy?

Now... to your problem... a Load Rite is a fine trailer, but it's not a custom-fit trailer. It's a general-fit trailer. Meaning, the angle that the top of the bunk is cut at is not designed to be a perfect match to your hull "out of the box". You would need to remove the plastic and recut the bunk to match or do the spacers you're talking about.

No, there is no pre-fabricated 2x4 cut to match the angles. There are W-A-Y too many combinations of hull angles and trailer designs.

2x6's on the flat will be absolutely, perfectly fine for your boat. It's a small boat so it would be pretty easy. 2x6's are used on boats much larger than this one.

Jack up the boat with a floor jack and get a better look at the area you're worried about.
 

SeanC

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I have my 228 on a Loadrite bunk trailers with carpet on the bunks. I have bottom paint and that isn’t wearing off where the bunks slide. For launching I have about an 8ft rope attached to the winch post and bow roller. I back in until I see the stern start to float and with a slight touch on the brakes the boat slides off. Putting the boat back on the trailer, I submerge it until the mud guards are almost covered and drive the boat on. There isn’t a lot of pressure on the end of the bunks when launching and retrieving.

Loadrite says their bunk trailers are designed as float on / float off.