Fixing my chipped hatches

[PNW_Drifter]

After grinding out the cracks on 3 hatches this is what’s left.

My plan is to fill them with marine fairing putty from Fiberlay. Then leave some depth to fill with Gel Coat. I ordered some custom color-matched gel coat from Fiberlay. Hope it matches better than last time.

My plan is to spray it this time, first time spraying gel coat. I've read on other forums that people have had luck spraying with a Preval sprayer after thinned and also a Harbor Freight gun. I'll post the results either way.

My only question here is how the finish turned out after folks thinned their gel coat with Duratech? It's a glossy additive, so in my mind, the patch won't match well since the rest of the hatch won't be as shiny. Curious about user's actual results. I've been told by Fiberlay to thin with MEK not Duratech. But have no experience either way.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

After grinding out the cracks on 3 hatches this is what’s left.

My plan is to fill them with marine fairing putty from Fiberlay. Then leave some depth to fill with Gel Coat. I ordered some custom color-matched gel coat from Fiberlay. Hope it matches better than last time.

My plan is to spray it this time, first time spraying gel coat. I've read on other forums that people have had luck spraying with a Preval sprayer after thinned and also a Harbor Freight gun. I'll post the results either way.

My only question here is how the finish turned out after folks thinned their gel coat with Duratech? It's a glossy additive, so in my mind, the patch won't match well since the rest of the hatch won't be as shiny. Curious about user's actual results. I've been told by Fiberlay to think with MEK not Duratech.


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I tried the preval sprayer on my dash with no luck and ended up rolling on (for the anti skid texture on the floor and hatches I got samples of the skid texture from a company and used them, only had a inch or so to repair but for you sample would be too small).
I really need another coat, and some spots came out shiny - seemed like it wasnt going to dry on its own even with wax in the paint, so then used preval sprayer with the green sealer - only stuck to part of paint others bubbled like water on oil. Left over night and washed off the green sealer, and all was good but do see some small differences in glossiness.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

If it "seemed like it wasn't going to dry" you definitely mixed it wrong. Polyester should kick pretty quick.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

If it "seemed like it wasn't going to dry" you definitely mixed it wrong. Polyester should kick pretty think it was too thin of q coat (if that's possible )

If it "seemed like it wasn't going to dry" you definitely mixed it wrong. Polyester should kick pretty quick.

O would say the same thing if I were you but was def mixed correctly and fairly large batch makes that much easier to get right. I think it was rolled on too thin (if thats possible, if I remember I believe it was also cool out and was into the evening).
I tried the preval, mixing with acetone (I know they also recommend something else) seemed so thin for some reason preval wouldn't suck it up the tube.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

Thanks for the comments on the preval sprayer. I will probably get the cheap HF sprayer over the Preval as I don't want to over thin. Will report back on what I find.

The thing with fiberglass/ gel coat and especially epoxy, is the devil is in the details. You have to do things right at the right temps or it won't work. Not that I'm an expert.

"I tried the preval, mixing with acetone (I know they also recommend something else) seemed so thin for some reason preval wouldn't suck it up the tube. "

Don't ever thin with acetone, that will destroy the gel coat resin properties. MEK (not MEKP) costs the same and will not totally destroy the gel coat though it can only be thinned a little.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Thanks for the comments on the preval sprayer. I will probably get the cheap HF sprayer over the Preval as I don't want to over thin. Will report back on what I find.

The thing with fiberglass/ gel coat and especially epoxy, is the devil is in the details. You have to do things right at the right temps or it won't work. Not that I'm an expert.

"I tried the preval, mixing with acetone (I know they also recommend something else) seemed so thin for some reason preval wouldn't suck it up the tube. "

Don't ever thin with acetone, that will destroy the gel coat resin properties. MEK (not MEKP) costs the same and will not totally destroy the gel coat though it can only be thinned a little.

mek is def way to go but instructions I was following for preval they used acetone and didnt want to mess with the formula - figuring just replicate their process.
Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

3rd layer of fairing compound. It's tough to know when to stop sanding because I the radius of the hatch was destroyed by chipping cracked material off. Had to build a little DIY cheap paint boot in my garage to get up to proper temps and suck out fumes. Works well for temps but ventlation is not good enough to suck out dust.


I was able to pattern a sanding block out of wood to match one hatch radius but for the livewell I got some help from computers. The sanding blocks match the curvature of the lids so I can maintain a fair even curve and know when to stop stand. Flat spots are too easy to make accidentally.

Conture gauge shows curve I want

Friend matched a 3d model the gauge and printed out a custom sanding block for a Grady 228 livewell lid.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

The 3D printed sanding block.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

That is awesome - cant wait to see the results! Has to be a ton of other uses for that 3d printer, good friend to have.

 

[Fishtales]

GW uses fairing compound in their Resin Transfer Mold (RTM) process to get the smooth edge on the corner. It looks good but is prone to chipping if hit hard. The underside of the lip can absorb moisture and if the boat is in an area that gets cold enough, the expansion of the water will chip it as well. The more chips the more potential for water to contact and the more chips. The susceptible area are the hardtop and hatch covers. If in a cold area, you must keep the boat covered (shrink, cover or protected area) to mitigate water exposure prior to cold weather.

 

[RussGW270]

Lol another 3d printer fella! I have an Ender 3X

 

[PNW_Drifter]

The custom fairing block made shaping so much easier. Got the shape perfect... with fairing compound. That was the easy part. Now i brushed 3 layers in laminating gel coat, in different directions to TRY to elminate brush strokes. Didn't work... sanding right through in spots trying to get down to the deepest brush mark. Now I remember why I wanted to spray it. local fiberglass supply guy "Fiberlay" thought I was crazy to want to spray but there is actually alot of surface area when your talking 7 spots per hatch on the top plus the entire edge on bottom.

PITA now I'm going to apply more gel coat then sand again. Wish I would have bought duratech but can't find it locally near seattle.

 

[mleads310]

Can't see a thing lol sorry, I have issues uploading pics too.

 

[PNW_Drifter]

So I linked from my google photo account. Guess that doesn't work. I seem them. Can you see these?

Finally fixed my hatches. Ended up doing 4 (anchor locker too). They are far from perfect and didn't end up matching the non-skid to my satisfaction but they sure are better than when I got the boat. I hope these images show up. I bedded all the hinges with butyl tape rather than silicone. It should last 10-20 years.

Before:

Starboard Before:




After a month of work and rework. Keep in mind boat has not been cleaned after a 3000 mile trip in November.


Extended the cutting board a bit.

 

[leeccoll]

Solid work there Drifter, keep it up and thanks for posting the process!

Nice sheen and color match on the gelcoat.

 

[pessacake]

Great work!