flexiable conduit for running wires

lime4x4

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What are u guys using for flexiable conduit? I'm rewiring my grady and i would like to install some sort of conduit for the wires. I looked at lowes today at the flexiable emt conduit but that only comes in 3/4 inch. I'm running 2 6 gauge wires for power and ground. Once there in the tube there isn't much room left.
 

DennisG01

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Is there any room left in the conduit/chase already installed by Grady?

PVC pipe is inexpensive and easy.

Are you sure you need 6g? If I remember correctly, my Sundancer has 10g being used for that purpose (from the battery to the dash).
 

lime4x4

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I thought of pvc but my boat isn't ripped apart...lol. I need flexiable. I had 6 gauge left over from another project so i thought i would use that to run power to the helm and that way i'm good for future addon's like a windless.
I spent today ripping out all the old corroded wiring mess. When i touched the black conduit they used it's just all fell apart. It's so dry rotted all u have to do is breathe on it and it crumbles...lol
 

DennisG01

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Good to know - I won't breathe on mine! Yeah, I guess it is a "bit" easier to do things when there's no floor!!!

Is your plan, then, to run the conduit under the gunwale?

Good thinking about wire size for a windlass. Always helps to use up "leftovers"!

Maybe you could send the PVC up in 2' pieces and just glue as you go?
 

lime4x4

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Lowes has 3/4 ent conduit for 40 bucks for 100 feet. I could run 2 conduits. Use one for the power,ground and bilge pump wire then use the other conduit for the restof the wiring

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mboyatt

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You could use Ultratite by Southwire . You may have to order it from Amazon or Ebay for larger diameter sizes, or perhaps get it from an electrical outlet as opposed to the big box stores. Product is flexible and can withstand wet environments. I think you can even bury the stuff.
 

DennisG01

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Check this out: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-elect ... it/=qiag9x

I'm not an electrician, but is there any reason you can't use vinyl tubing/hose?

Is the Grady conduit about 3" or 4"? I can't remember. If so, you should easily be able to shove a 2" or 2.5" tube through there - using the existing wires as the "guide"? Meaning, feed the existing wires first into the new tube (at the transom end), then shove the new tube up/forward through the Grady conduit. I don't know - maybe I'm missing something.
 

lime4x4

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Currently the exsisting conduit appears to be 1 inch vynil tubing just for the wires. It would be nice if i had a 3 or 4 inch conduit. The throttle and shift cables and cooper pipe for the steering are just run under the floor
 

JeffN

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Try the ENT (elecrical nonmetalic tubing). If you want something heavier look at some Carflex there is no metal inside Carflex and it is more robust than ENT. The ENT is more flexible.
 

lime4x4

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Okay i was wrong there is a pvc pipe running thru the floor. Found it when i stuck my phone under the deck and took some pics.

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ROBERTH

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That PVC pipe is what I used to run all my wires from back to front. Drag a small diameter rope with the snake first time so you can always have something to pull other wires through. I did a yellow nylon rope and a second piece used to chase and replace if I drag more wire through. I have done this several times since and it makes it very easy to pull another wire.
You will not really need to put the wires in a loom if you just pull through this pvc tube. It has enough protection.
I pulled out the old Grady original helm supply wiring and replaced with 2 gauge. It took that to handle all the new electronics as before, I was taking a loss of voltage from back to front. Bigger is always better to carry the current along that distance from the batteries.
 

DennisG01

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John - in the picture of the deck drain, is it just how it's showing up on my computer or is that drain setup galvanized with a house's sink drain 90*?
 

fishbust

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The conduit I use at work has metal in it. I wouldn't use it on a boat. Things move on a boat and you wouldn't want what the constant chafing can lead to.

I would use the existing plastic pipe on the boat and use the old wires as pull wires for the new wiring. There is also a foamy spray, wire ease to help things move along easier.
 

lime4x4

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It's stainless steele. I had to replace both my rear deck drains that were recessed plastic drains which aren't available any more. So i used stainless steele bar sink drains that fit the recessed area in the deck perfectly. The 90 deg tubes are just regular plastic sink drain pipe. I bought brass ones just haven't replaced them yet. i beleive the 6 gauge will be enough for my current and future power requirements if not i'll replace the wires with heavier gauge or just run another set of power feeds

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