Float switch recommendations

[SmokyMtnGrady]

When I get my boat back from Hydro Craf and I am thinking I am going to replace all the washdown hoses and live well hoses . While I am in there I was thinking of replacing my bilge pump and float switch,both are OEM and actually work. The float switch in bumpy seas sometimes gets stuck in the on position. I have to tap the box surrounding it with the end of a gaff to get it to shut off when it gets stuck in the on position.

The boat lives a gentile lake life for most of it's days on the water so I don't have a lot corrosion and such and honestly have a dry bilge . I test the pump each season and before I go offshore when I go.

I am thinking I want a solid state switch with no moving parts or do I just replace the current switch which is a ruhle o matic. You know it's encased inside a box protecting it from debris and such? Then there is the kind which the float is electromagnetic as well. The pump I am going to upgrade to the largest volume pump with an output hose diameter matching the existing hose diameter.

The forward bilge pump and switch are fine and the high water alarm too is fine.

My current set up has been operational since 2009 and I don't want to get into a place I am replacing bilge pump hardware every couple of years. What say you guys?

 

[seasick]

I have mechanical float switches and I feel more confident about them working when needed. I suppose there are some electronic models out there that folks use without issue but I have seen instances where some electronic models have run down batteries due to the fact that they use power to check every few minutes for water. I do have experience with water sensing sump pumps in buildings and they fail to trigger at the worst time due to buildup on the electrodes from mucky water. In addition, they are not that easy to check operation without filling the sump with water.
I have had Rule mechanical float switches get stuck as mentioned and that was due again to yuck in the bilge that gummed up the plastic pivots. That condition can be cleared by popping the float out of the bracket and washing the assemble with a bit of boat soap and water. I guess it is important to test these pumps regularly. Sometimes that is easier said than done as some pumps and floats are a pain to get to.

 

[DennisG01]

Agree with the above... just clean the existing the float switch and get back to boating sooner. Sometimes all you need is to get it good and soapy down there and let it soak for a while, then drain and blast it with a hose.

 

[SmokyMtnGrady]

Agree with the above... just clean the existing the float switch and get back to boating sooner. Sometimes all you need is to get it good and soapy down there and let it soak for a while, then drain and blast it with a hose.

Yah, I am actually happy that it works . I have not had any issues with the OEM pump.i read stories on THT where guys only get a couple years out of their pumps and I have gotten 12 out of mine now.