Folding motor dam removal question

[Jcontour]

I'm doing a complete restoration of a 1994 209 escape and the project is coming along great and will be in the water in the spring in Toronto.

The starboard folding motor well dam has been used as a fish or sandwich cutting board by the previous owner and looks pretty chewed up. As it seems like a painful thing to always deal with when trimming up the motor, I'm considering removing it completely and doing a gel repair on all the screw holes.

My question really is what is this dam for? Backing down on fish in big seas? The transom seems plenty high to keep waves out when anchored and there is tons of cockpit drainage..... Is it safe to operate without it?

Thx.

 

[captain swag]

I just purchased a 1999 209 that has only 262 hours on the whole rig. Seems the original owner knew someone at Grady and had a Stainless Marine 22" bracket mounted on the transom. A slide in panel was fabricated that slips into a groved channel on both sides of the cutout in the transom. The dropdown door can now be ommited. You won't believe how much more room it seems like you have without it up and the outboard protruding into the well.

 

[Jcontour]

Sounds interesting, do you have a picture? I figured that it would visually open up the cockpit quite a bit.

 

[captain swag]

I will be working on the boat replacing the transom trim this weekend and will get a few then.

 

[suzukidave]

i think it is strictly to keep people and stuff in the boat and out of the motor harness because the deck level is high relative to the top of the transom. on the older boats with huge transom slots and lots of open space beside the motors the need is more obvious, but i would not want a small child loose on my 223 without that guard up.

the way the hasps work i don't see it staying up at all if you get hit by a water from behind.

 

[billyttpd]

Definitely to keep gear and people in the boat. I have the same set up on my Adventure 20 and would love to see a small fishbox back there like on a Freedom/Tournament instead of that door.

 

[seasick]

It helps stop backwash from washing over the deck. Just the wake of a nearby boat at the right angle can cause the well to fill. It is also handy at times as a bait board and tool holder (knife, pliers,etc). If you don't like the marks that it will get, you can place a piece of cutting board on it, either free floating or mounter more permanently. Although I sometimes use a rod holder mounted bait board, when fishing with more that two people, it gets in the way and I find myself constantly relocating it to a different rod holder slot. Using the flip down transom dam makes things a lot easier especially when using small baits.

 

[Jcontour]

Finally had my wife and 2 yo daughter up to the factory to see the winter progress in the 209 restoration. She thought I had rocks in my head for not re-installing the motor well dam.....nevertheless it will be cleaned up and put back in.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[captain swag]

Sorry for the poor quality pic. This was a mod done by Grady for the original owner. Stainless Marine bracket with a well designed slide in rounded at the top panel. Panel is about 1/2" thick gelcoated fiberglass. Thinking about getting rid of the door all together and hope that I can find a cooler that will fit snug into opening of motor well. It really opens the cockpit up.

 

[grunt]

I made mine on my 208 into a small recessed table.
So things won't slide off of it.
It still folds as designed originally.
Its nice to have a place to put your lures, bait and tackle on.
And a better place to use for a cold beer and a sandwich.

 

[dainlaroche]

I know this is an old post but I'm hoping to rekindle this discussion of modifying the motor well dam on '90s Grady Whites. I have a 1993 209 Escape and that damn dam is always in the way as it needs to stay down during launching and trailering when you need to tilt the motor, or I am paranoid to forget to put it down so I leave it down. Then I trip over it, or at a minimum lose useful deck space.

I'm thinking of removing the top cutting board horizontal piece and corresponding piano hinge and trimming out the vertical piece (see red line below) to allow it to remain in place with the motor tilted all the way up. I'd then replace the catches with some stainless steel spring loaded latches so the dam will stay put if taking water into the well, sometimes now it slams down when this happens and scares the bejezus out of me. If I go this route I'll make a template out of cardboard that assures engine clearance when tilted and turned in each direction. This will also help me make sure it's worth doing and I won't have to cut a huge amount out. My battery is not in the boat so I can't trim the motor up now to do it, but wanted to float the idea by you all to get your opinion. Any suggestions or votes whether to keep it original or modify are appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[DennisG01]

I say modify it to suit your needs. There's absolutely no monetary (re-sale) value to keep it original. From what I understand the reason those current latches "release" is in case someone forgets to put the door down when tilting the engine up. Now, spend the 5 minutes it takes to pop the battery in there and get started!

 

[Summertop511]

Yeah have been debating the same thing. Please post pictures if you cut into it and router the edges.

 

[Caburke1]

I did the exact same thing with my old Seacraft and never regretted it...cut away!

 

[seasick]

I find the ledge and knife slots handy. Yes the top can get pretty beat up but it can be sanded and pretty much restored to newish condition. I made a cutting board that fits the left side facing aft out of some HPPE but it could be anything. The boards just lays on top and doesn't slide off. That takes all the damage now.

 

[dainlaroche]

Now, spend the 5 minutes it takes to pop the battery in there and get started!

I have to finish filling holes on the inside of the transom, painting the bilge, and installing new bilge pump, switch and hose, reseal the deck seams, new transom cap, new scuppers and hose, new flared brass motor well drains, install new leaning post, and then I should be ready to do it. I want to get all the essentials done first. Appreciate the feedback thus far!

 

[DennisG01]

I have to finish filling holes on the inside of the transom, painting the bilge, and installing new bilge pump, switch and hose, reseal the deck seams, new transom cap, new scuppers and hose, new flared brass motor well drains, install new leaning post, and then I should be ready to do it. I want to get all the essentials done first. Appreciate the feedback thus far!

So, what you're saying is that you have a half-day's worth of typical boat maintenance still ahead of you

 

[dainlaroche]

Motor just about clears now with the cutting board removed. I should only have to shave off an inch or so in the middle 1/3 of the motorwell dam. Then I’ll remove the original plastic catches and add the spring loaded barrel latches on the sides to hold it up. I’ll post another pic when it’s done.

 

[dainlaroche]

Done.

 

[Keeldad]

Very, very nice. Now I have another boat project.