Folding Transom Catch - 265 Express

max366

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The 265 has the folding transom and two catches on the sides. The catches are adjustable but no matter how I adjust them, they're either too tight to fold or too loose and it falls down while underway. I've tried tightening them and lubrication the catch but NG.

I'm thinking of adding a more positive latch and not relying on friction but I wonder what other 265 owners have done. Any thoughts or experience?
 

max366

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Here you go

The pic shows the catch - the male part goes into the housing that has 2 spring loaded balls and the screw you see is what is used to adjust the top spring tension. Another screw is on the bottom to tighten/loosen the bottom spring.

The catch is on the aft side of the folding transom which is shown in the other pic. There's a catch on both sides of the folding part of the transom.

A simple hook and eye would work but it would rattle - I'm trying to get something that's more positive.
 

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drbatts

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I have never had to adjust or mess with the latches on my boat. Overall it has proven to be a great design. Did you feel it wearing out and getting easier to fold down over time. On my boat I have it to give the gate a good tug to fold down. From the pictures the hardware does look a little weathered. Did you call grady and ask for a part number or manufacturer, they are usually good about that kind of stuff.
 

DennisG01

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It sounds like you've done about everything you can to try and get them to work. I've had experience with latches like this and I "think" the spring gets worn out. Tightening the screw too far doesn't make up for a worn spring since then it just pushes that ball too hard, as you've found out. I've never tried to fix them, but I do wonder if you could (a) pull the spring out and stretch it out by hand to buy you some time (also check for dirt buildup inside) or (b) find a replacement spring, either through the manufacturer or a place like Mcmaster Carr.

If not, you can certainly use a different latch. There's a couple different styles of rubber latches and I'm sure any of those could do the job, too.
 

max366

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Thanks for the input so far. I have contacted Grady about getting the part # and will look into getting the original design - perhaps mine is just worn out.
 

eppem

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Are you tweaking the tension on the top and bottom? I have the same boat and have no issues.
 

max366

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Eppem

Indeed I am adjusting both. I have tried screwing in both screws, both sides, in as tight as they will go and then backing all off 1/2 turn at a time and trying that setting. If too tight, back them off another 1/2 turn and try. No go. Then I tried the reverse- backing all of them way out where it's not holding it at all tight, then start the 1/2 turn in. It's either too tight to latch or too loose and the door folds when underway. The suggestion that the springs might have lost their tension may explain it- it has gotten worse over the last few years.
 

PrinceofThieves

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I realize this thread is a bit old, but I just went through replacing this part and was stoked when Grady gave me the part # and manufacturer. It is indeed McMaster-Carr and the part # is 1316A5. AND it was about $20 for both! Figured I would share as clearly some have had this headache and still may.
 

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tilewave

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hello , forget that latch system altogether. its not a good design ( my opinion only) i put an eye hook latch on mine a long tile ago. works great !
if you text me your # 908 337 4965, i will send you a pic tomo. - john
 

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I rigged an eye hook/bungee on both sides to add some help to the latches. The bungees will give a little if I forget to put the tailgate down before raising motors.

My latches are worn and springs are shot too.
 

PrinceofThieves

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tilewave said:
hello , forget that latch system altogether. its not a good design ( my opinion only) i put an eye hook latch on mine a long tile ago. works great !
if you text me your # 908 337 4965, i will send you a pic tomo. - john

Thanks John, sent you text. The choice of material used (brass = soft) for this application is not the best, but i actually think thr design is ok. The latches held relatively fine until this season, so 2005-2017 (let's say), not bad. What i noticed is that whn you feel around the ball end that clips in, you'll notice that the metal has worn down just slightly on both ends that clip in, hence causing it to come loose. There is very little on this boat that I have not changed out, upgraded, etc., projects galore and am that point where all I want to do is fish and not touch a damn thing that I dont have to until the winter/spring and if it will hold another 12 years I'm good with that (though I doubt the boat will be in my hands to see the next latch swap). So finding an original part for $20, that I can jsut swap, for me was like Christmas (for any of you guys that changed the macerator pump on this boat, you know what i mean!). Neverthless, I'm alwasy interested to see what others have come up with and maybe I like it better.
 

SkunkBoat

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My concern with using the spring latches only is that when they do let loose, the gate drops....fast...

A few weeks ago we were backing into a 3 ft chop, trying to stay over a wreck.... bang..... standing in a foot of water...
Bungees went on the next day.

Considered a hook & eye or a dead bolt but if you forget about it you will pull it out or crack something with the motor tilt.

Oh. Prince Of Thieves....tell me all about your new Suzukis please...
 

PrinceofThieves

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My firm belief is that the replacement latch will hold fine. In my case, I did not find that the spring was an issue, it was the ball end that clicks into the spring loaded ball and pin; you can feel the grooves created over time through wear of constant cick in and out. The spring itself, which i looked at, is perfect after 12 years. This is my experience and situation, yours and that of others may be different.

As for the Zuke's, love em! Took a while to get the rig fine tuned and i'm still not done, but on the overall they are great and I would not go back to Yamaha (but that is probably more due to a now deeply embedded digust resulting from bad expeiences with F225's and F350's) . The major issue we had from the get-go was major cavitaion issues while trying to get on plane once they were installed. This was a mind bender - I changed 3 sets of props, was about to rip out the new Raymarine RV 220 transducers i just put in thinking that they were the cause and then at the last minute, when we had the boat out of the water again, the engien trim jsut didnt look quite right when trimmed all the way down; we learned that Suzuki 'factory defualt' blocks the trim on the engines flush with the bracket and does not allow the engines to get tight to the boat. They explained that this is because of complaints of vibrations when they are tight to the boat and what not. I told them this boat needs them tight tight and they gave us the sequence to override the factory defualt setting and just like that the problem solved, she shoot out of the hole in a blink. I'm working on getting the props optimized for best fuel economy. They sent 16 x 21.5P, which are too big, i'm not hitting rpm at WOT, but the fuel economy at cruise is outstanding. I can tune it to get 1.78 mpg at 27-28kn. The smaller props i tried, which are the same ones i ran on the F225's (15.25 x 19P) are hitting RPM at WOT, but fuel economy is comparable to the F225's, which is really not what we want given a new repower with enignes 13 yrs newer! WIth both sets of props i had incredible top end speed, 44-46kn. So, im at the cross roads of either trying a 4 blade prop or cupping the smaller 15.25 props and i'm not concerned with loosing top end speed, I rarely gun it and lord knows I need the fuel economy (I do between 320-35hrs/season). Again, overall great engines, they are alot easier to work on, everything is alot more accesible (you dont have to take apart half the engine to do simple maint things, T-stats, etc.). So far so good!
 

max366

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I wound up putting a bungee cord from the pliers holder around the motors steering connector and back to the gas ram on the transom. Works perfectly and if someone forget to drop the transom before raising the engines, it's forgiving.
I will check out the McMaster catches and consider replacing the original ones.

Love the idea of twin 250 Zukes! I'm with you- anything but the corrosion riddled, poorly designed Yamahas. I have a newish 30HP Zuke on my 13 Whaler and it's a great engine. The only issue is the $$ for the conversion....
 

PrinceofThieves

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max366 said:
I wound up putting a bungee cord from the pliers holder around the motors steering connector and back to the gas ram on the transom. Works perfectly and if someone forget to drop the transom before raising the engines, it's forgiving.
I will check out the McMaster catches and consider replacing the original ones.

Love the idea of twin 250 Zukes! I'm with you- anything but the corrosion riddled, poorly designed Yamahas. I have a newish 30HP Zuke on my 13 Whaler and it's a great engine. The only issue is the $$ for the conversion....

You can't lose at $20 for the latches!

If you do consider the repower, the 250 Zukes (all digital), installed, taxes paid come in anywhere from 8-10k cheaper than F250's digital. If you went mechanical on Yammis to avoid the additional cost of conversion to digital, you'll probably regret it down the road, if not sooner.