Foot switches for windlass?

[Ky Grady]

Who has them and are they necessary? If I find I need them, can I add them later?

Just trying to get things together for my install. Would like to pick up all my parts while I'm in Florida next week instead of having them shipped to me at home.

 

[wspitler]

I have them on the 330 and they are very important on that size boat. You need to be able to operate the windlass from the bow at times to deal with issues up there and sometimes to view how the rode is tending and the chain/anchor position.

 

[magicalbill]

X2 to what wspitler says.

Obviously, I don't retrieve the whole rode from there; I stay at the helm mostly, bumping the Yams in-and-out of gear to not put strain on the windlass during the process, especially in a headwind. The forward switches are a great option that allows you to make small adjustments geared toward making sure the rode doesn't go under the boat. You can't see the rode from the helm nearly as well.

They allow you to go back-and-forth from the helm to the pulpit when needed.

Your Seafarer is a smaller rig, but the principle is the same.

I have just spent more of your money by voting "Yes."

 

[Ky Grady]

Info I need guys, no problem.

B.O.A.T = Break out another thousand!!!

It'll make a nice, functional package when complete with control in both locations.

 

[Summertop511]

We have the same boat and I have the windlass I guess grady put on them? Anyways I had a new canvas I would put the windlass on the anchor hatch like they do on the new ones. From what I gather you can order that hatch from Grady. It then makes then rope go right into deepest part of the locker. I also really recommend 8 plait rope. My rope come in more forward and not a deep drop so 8 plait works a lot better then the 3 strand 1/2”. It does bind if I’m pulling in over 75’ I have to go into the cabin anchor locker and pull the rope back sometimes. Foot controls would be nice but I haven’t seen a need for them.

 

[Ky Grady]

Is yours the white one?? Looking at your pic, if it is your setup, the windlass is further forward than where I was going to put mine. This is a pic of a friend's windlass and I'm going even closer to the back edge of the pulpit than his, getting closer to the deeper part of the locker. I have 200' of 8-plait with 15' of chain coming to use for mine.

 

[wrxhoon]

Summer your windlass is a couple of inches further forward than mine is. I have 2013 Seafarer and mine is fitted as per KY's pic, works well even with a 3 strand 5/8 rope although I never anchor in deep water, I only anchor for live bait.
KY it is a good idea to have the foot controls even if you only need to use them rarely. I only ever used mine once when the anchor was jammed. When she came up i brought a 8"x 12' exhaust with a huge turbo attached . Other time I used them was to test if and how they worked.
If you want to install them at a later stage run the wires there when you do the installation.

 

[Summertop511]

Yeah I have 250’ 8 plait. Thinking about cutting 100’ off idk I’m out in the ocean a lot 80+ depth. The biggest reason is bunch’s you is the windlass is in front of the bow eye. I bunch’s up for the all thread and nuts forward. This winter I’m going to do something like Omer did and put a stainless slide over the back of the bow eye. When pulling in 75’ of greater the rope won’t slide past and bunches up forward. Got to say tho I use the windlass I find every time I’m out. For now on every boat I own is going to have one.

 

[drbatts]

I have the foot pedals on my 305 and use them all the time. Its so much easier to use them then having to go back to the helm, especially when making adjustments. I also cannot easily see the angle of the rode drop from the helm on my boat, unless the line is payed way out forward.

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

Can someone post a pic of a foot switch? Just bought a 228, it's my first boat with a windlass but so far not a fan. Thinking about installing some sort of slave switch inside the locker to minimize trips back and forth from the helm when I'm solo. Trying to minimize deck clutter and surface mounts so I'd rather put a switch inside the hatch since I'm in there shuffling line anyway.

I only handed 100' of 1/2" 8 plait but it clogs and binds 4x on average pull. The windlass should have been mounted further aft, can't do anything about that but thinking I'll cut the excess off the bow eye bolts which seem to be one of the main causes of clogging.

 

[Ky Grady]

Take a pic Bob. I'd like to see your location of the windlass.

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

I'm doing some chores and hopefully some fishing this weekend probably won't be able to post pics until next week. Looks like a factory install of a lewmar pro fish, the issue is the line hits the front part of the locker first so bunches and clogs rather than dropping to the bottom.

 

[everwhom]

Another option is to install a wireless remote system. I did that on my 330, described here: https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/installing-a-wireless-remote-for-windlass-on-330-express.24327/

Overall I'd give the Lewmar remote 3.5 stars... It does work, but the range is a little marginal - I have to hold my hand behind my back or the remote loses contact sometimes. Also the buttons are stupidly small and it's weirdly tiring to hold them down when doing a long retrieve... Installation was pretty easy, though. No drilling or running wires.

I've seen other systems (some very cheap on Amazon). If I were doing it over again, I'd look into a different system or go hard-wired foot switches after all.

 

[Summertop511]

I'm doing some chores and hopefully some fishing this weekend probably won't be able to post pics until next week. Looks like a factory install of a lewmar pro fish, the issue is the line hits the front part of the locker first so bunches and clogs rather than dropping to the bottom.

Yeah this is what I’m talking about. Mine isn’t as bad I put cap nuts on the bow eye bolts and cut of the tie loop from the bow eye backing plate. Now it’s only 1 or 2 bunches on 100’ pull.
There is a member on here by Omer and he put a stainless plate slide u set his. What I’m going to do.
I spray painted my chain before anchor comes around bow pulpit to slow down.
If when I wear out this windlass I’m going to it on the new style hatch Grady makes which I read somewhere is $700 and put on the vertical lewmar that drops into deepest section of anchor locker.

 

[Summertop511]

Yeah this is what I’m talking about. Mine isn’t as bad I put cap nuts on the bow eye bolts and cut of the tie loop from the bow eye backing plate. Now it’s only 1 or 2 bunches on 100’ pull.
There is a member on here by Omer and he put a stainless plate slide u set his. What I’m going to do.
I spray painted my chain before anchor comes around bow pulpit to slow down.
If when I wear out this windlass I’m going to it on the new style hatch Grady makes which I read somewhere is $700 and put on the vertical lewmar that drops into deepest section of anchor locker.

Before and after.
Tied end of rope to a 2x4 with a hole in it as a stopper. Also taped the rope with red tape so shouldn’t go that far as I can see the warning tape.

 

[wrxhoon]

Can someone post a pic of a foot switch? Just bought a 228, it's my first boat with a windlass but so far not a fan. Thinking about installing some sort of slave switch inside the locker to minimize trips back and forth from the helm when I'm solo. Trying to minimize deck clutter and surface mounts so I'd rather put a switch inside the hatch since I'm in there shuffling line anyway.

I only handed 100' of 1/2" 8 plait but it clogs and binds 4x on average pull. The windlass should have been mounted further aft, can't do anything about that but thinking I'll cut the excess off the bow eye bolts which seem to be one of the main causes of clogging.

Here you go Bob:

 

[Absolutely Nothing]

Just had to replace my Lewmar windlass this spring. They make a compatible remote control that works well. I think there are some manufacturers whose controls are generic And can be retrofitted To other windlasses. my control is mounted at the helm area and we bring it up to the pulpit when needed. There is no drilling or holes needed like the foot pedal install