Its pretty watertight, everynow and then i lift it up and clean the "space" where the gaskets are as debris, chum, fishstuff, etc can get stuck - overall I am still very pleased@!
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For 265 Owners
- Thread starter eppem
- Start date
Update part 3.
Hatch worked great this Summer, I posted earlier this season the ease we had swapping out a bad pump. The same pump stopped working later in the year and it was a connection that was corroded. Open up the hatch and a 5 min repair was done. No rescrewing, rechaulking, etc.
Pulled the boat and winterizing the washdown pump was a snap. We got a little water leaking into the hatch and it did collect a few scales and guts but that was easy to take care of with soap and water. Twice this year I took a wet vac and sucked any stray gunk out the bildge - bottom line very happy!
It was another great season on the EPPE.
Have a nice winter and a great holiday season to all!
Hatch worked great this Summer, I posted earlier this season the ease we had swapping out a bad pump. The same pump stopped working later in the year and it was a connection that was corroded. Open up the hatch and a 5 min repair was done. No rescrewing, rechaulking, etc.
Pulled the boat and winterizing the washdown pump was a snap. We got a little water leaking into the hatch and it did collect a few scales and guts but that was easy to take care of with soap and water. Twice this year I took a wet vac and sucked any stray gunk out the bildge - bottom line very happy!
It was another great season on the EPPE.
Have a nice winter and a great holiday season to all!
BobP
GreatGrady Captain
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Guys, even though I don't have a 265, most grady cockpit decks and covers are designed and built in a similar fashion.
Unless I'm mistaken, the screw line in the after photo shown, and the one that was there in the "before" photo so to speak, are screwed into the unprotected 3/4 inch plywood bulkhead endgrain. It's part and parcel to the stringer grid hull structure, it's secoindary purpose is to also support the floor too.
If so, be absolutely careful to properly seal it with resin / glass encapsulate, caulk, etc., to any and all water from contacting it under any circumstance. Some water going into the bilge means nothing as the bilge is a below deck space and meant to be permanently wet. Not the case with wood stringers and water pressure from above it.
The hinged side of the cover in photo allows water leaks, no water leak was possible with a caulked joint line between cover and fixed deck, and all caulked screws, as original design.
The same applies to your gas tank cover, as screwed into the heads of the stringers too.
Nice job on the cover, others have done similar on the Marlin. Reminds me a bit of the BW equipment access deck opening (where they locate batteries and HW heater, diesel gen, oil tanks for Optimax, in addition to pumps, valves).
Unless I'm mistaken, the screw line in the after photo shown, and the one that was there in the "before" photo so to speak, are screwed into the unprotected 3/4 inch plywood bulkhead endgrain. It's part and parcel to the stringer grid hull structure, it's secoindary purpose is to also support the floor too.
If so, be absolutely careful to properly seal it with resin / glass encapsulate, caulk, etc., to any and all water from contacting it under any circumstance. Some water going into the bilge means nothing as the bilge is a below deck space and meant to be permanently wet. Not the case with wood stringers and water pressure from above it.
The hinged side of the cover in photo allows water leaks, no water leak was possible with a caulked joint line between cover and fixed deck, and all caulked screws, as original design.
The same applies to your gas tank cover, as screwed into the heads of the stringers too.
Nice job on the cover, others have done similar on the Marlin. Reminds me a bit of the BW equipment access deck opening (where they locate batteries and HW heater, diesel gen, oil tanks for Optimax, in addition to pumps, valves).
Happy New Year all!
No idea on the brand for the hinges, I had a glass shop do this work, I could probably find out thru a call to Bob at New England Fiberglass in Norwalk. Also, the wood across the top was indeed glassed over, just in case. I was very concerned about playing with the integrity of the hatch, caulk, etc. I was (happily) suprised that very little water leaked into the bildge. Some scales and crud would build up towards the aft side of the hatch but that was easy to clean.
Bottom line, the ease of access makes it all worthwhile now!
No idea on the brand for the hinges, I had a glass shop do this work, I could probably find out thru a call to Bob at New England Fiberglass in Norwalk. Also, the wood across the top was indeed glassed over, just in case. I was very concerned about playing with the integrity of the hatch, caulk, etc. I was (happily) suprised that very little water leaked into the bildge. Some scales and crud would build up towards the aft side of the hatch but that was easy to clean.
Bottom line, the ease of access makes it all worthwhile now!
Very nice.
I was toying with the idea of installing a hatch in the transom well of my 208. There are two 6" round access covers now but it is a royal pain to do any work under the well. I need a hatch that is strong enough to stand on ( although I rarely stand in the well) and a hatch that is not hinged but can be completely removed. A hinged hatch will not clear the motor lines or hardware.
Anybody have sources for such a hatch assembly?
I was toying with the idea of installing a hatch in the transom well of my 208. There are two 6" round access covers now but it is a royal pain to do any work under the well. I need a hatch that is strong enough to stand on ( although I rarely stand in the well) and a hatch that is not hinged but can be completely removed. A hinged hatch will not clear the motor lines or hardware.
Anybody have sources for such a hatch assembly?
Seasick, I have a 208 and I have a Hatch in the transom that covers the water tank. I did not know that they had 208's without a transom Hatch?seasick said:Very nice.
I was toying with the idea of installing a hatch in the transom well of my 208. There are two 6" round access covers now but it is a royal pain to do any work under the well. I need a hatch that is strong enough to stand on ( although I rarely stand in the well) and a hatch that is not hinged but can be completely removed. A hinged hatch will not clear the motor lines or hardware.
Anybody have sources for such a hatch assembly?
Im doing the same thing with my 265. Im using a piano hindge on the forward side of the hatch, and then putting a channel under the hatch with a drain in each of the corners of the channel. Im going to also install a gasket around the hatch to stop water going into the bilge. These corner drains are then going to be connected to each of the drains going out. This way when I wash the boat most of the water will drain overboard. When done the entire back will be open to work on pumps
max366
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Izzip
What are you going to use for latches? Are you bolting the piano hinge to the existing hatch cover and matching deck side? I'm thinking about doing this similar to what you've described.
What are you going to use for latches? Are you bolting the piano hinge to the existing hatch cover and matching deck side? I'm thinking about doing this similar to what you've described.