Found this crack today on transom

willshawker

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Hello all,

I have a 1991 Grady 204c Overnighter and today I found a crack on the transom cut out. The boat was surveyed last year and not a thing was wrong with the transom no moissture whatsoever, but I am still worried about this. Is it common? Do I just need a gel coat repair kit. Could this be a bigger issue.

I've only taken the boat out once this year where my Uncle drove the motor into the mud and instead of stopping busted his way through it could this have happened then.

I know only educated guesses can be given here but please help.

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seasick

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I'll bet that crack extends right to that screw hole. The crack was probably not from powering through the mud as much as it was from hitting it. Based on the photo the force seems towards the stern, meaning the force was pushing the motor aft. That is consistent with the skeg hitting something. You can patch with a gel coat kit but I would apply some clear silicone for now so that you can see if the crack worsens over time. If it doesn't you can make a more appealing repair. You can also pull up on the motor to see if the transom flexes ( and the crack expands/contracts) . If it does more extensive repairs are needed.
 

seasick

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seasick said:
I'll bet that crack extends right to that screw hole. The crack was probably not from powering through the mud as much as it was from hitting it. Based on the photo the force seems towards the stern, meaning the force was pushing the motor aft. That is consistent with the skeg hitting something. You can patch with a gel coat kit but I would apply some clear silicone for now so that you can see if the crack worsens over time. If it doesn't you can make a more appealing repair. You can also pull up on the motor to see if the transom flexes ( and the crack expands/contracts) . If it does more extensive repairs are needed.
For my own curiosity, did last years inspection include testing with a moisture meter?
 

willshawker

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Thanks for your input and yes it did include the moisture meter test. Dude saaid it was dry which skinda suprised me, but this guy was certified and I got a written report which really dont mean anything but still.
 

cgmiller

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I would recommend you remove the aluminum cover angle and inspect the transom. Before I had my transom replaced last year, it had cracks coming out of the screw holes. It also had the transom cap cracked open .Grady did a piss poor job of finishing off the hull to deck/transom joint and covered it with a piece of metal to hide it instead of taking the time to finish it properly...fix those cracks so no moisture enters the transom.
 

family affair

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If you want to see if you have a serious transom issue, do this. Stick your head over the back of the boat and have someone throttle the boat up in gear. If you see more than 1/4" of flex at the top or the base of the bracket push into the the transom while climbing into plan, you need a new transom.
 

seasick

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family affair said:
If you want to see if you have a serious transom issue, do this. Stick your head over the back of the boat and have someone throttle the boat up in gear. If you see more than 1/4" of flex at the top or the base of the bracket push into the the transom while climbing into plan, you need a new transom.
You can do this a lot safer by doing it at the dock, if you have one, with the boat tied off. Try forward and reverse with power to look for flexing. I am not sure about your transom but on mine the metal strip can not be removed without removing the motor.

If the surveyor tested correctly and the transom is dry ( or was dry) this may just be a stress fracture and nothing to worry about.
Do the flex test. If it looks good, patch the crack with either sealant or do a gel coat repair and keep an eye on that spot.
 

gw204

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If you have a moisture meter verified dry transom, do yourself a favor and pull the engine, pull the trim and glass over that joint. It's not a matter of if the seal under or around that trim will fail, it's when.
 

steveg

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Another easy way to test the transom is to use the power tilt and bring it up all the way and when it stops, see if the motor moves. Lots of GW's with transom problems. I actually donated my GW 25 Trophy pro due to the transom and blown starboard engine. It was not worth the 5k for the transom and the 25k for the new motors. Steve
 

cgmiller

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Will,

My transom job cost about $6000, but I also had the deck drains replaced, the lower rigging tube hole sealed up and the fiberglass guy stripped everything off the transom and put it all back on (except the engines). The local yamaha dealer took care of everything associated with the engines. I hired a guy that used all composite materials, which cost about $400-$500 more than a plywood core replacement. The wider beam boat (9'-3") also cost a little more than the standard 8'-6" beam hull....maybe $500 or so from what I recall.