Four Stroke Winterize...

[ScottyCee]

Good day GW owners!

I'm going to winterize my F225s soon, and want a little input - I'm used to 2-strokes and wonder if there are additional or different steps recommended. Some of this is more than just winterizing, but here's what I have planned:

Water pump rebuild (motors are new to me this year)
Pull plugs, spray cylinders with fogging oil
Crankcase Oil chg (Oil Filter, oil Drain Plug Gasket)
Fuel Filter (Fuel Filter Cup Gasket)
Lower unit fluid chg (Lower Unit Vent Plug Gaskets)

I have already done a bunch of work to these (T-stats, etc.), so there isn't too much else that I can think of. One thing that I keep reading about but cannot find is whether there is yet another set of anodes hiding inside. I changed the ones that bolt into the head by the spark plugs (and the other exterior ones), but I guess some models have another set inside? Is that 2005, or were they added to later models? Can't find anything more on the parts diagrams for 2005.

So, after pump and fluid changes, I'll d-con the fuel lines, run motors out of fuel completely, and then fog the cylinders.

Anything else?

TIA!

 

[DennisG01]

While running it empty is fine, of more importance to properly treat the fuel with a good stabilizer. This important not only to keep your fuel fresh in the tank, but especially because there is often one, tiny, little drop that hangs on the injector - and that can gum up over an extended layup. Even if you run it dry, there still exists the possibility of that little drop. It doesn't hurt to double or even triple the dose - so don't worry about too exact.

Personally, I never run things dry - this includes all of my boat engines, lawnmower, weedwhacker, chainsaws, snowblower, etc, etc... I've been doing it this way for 15 years (using a good stabilizer) and I have yet to have a fuel-related issue.

 

[ScottyCee]

Thanks, Dennis!

I agree that fuel stabilizer is a fantastic thing - it allowed me to get lazy regarding a whole lot of small engines without paying for it. So, I probably will run these big girls dry too, but on treated fuel.

I drain my boat tanks too - at least in part because I don't want to let 200+ gallons of gas sit for 8 months, or tow that extra weight at the end of the season when I pull it.

Anything else I have not thought of?

 

[Bloodweiser]

add engine fog

 

[DennisG01]

Wow, you drain your tank? Pump it into your cars? All I do is make sure they're full so there is extremely little chance of condensation. If it's treater properly, 8 months is no big deal - even longer is fine. BUT, that's not to say that draining the tank is bad, either - I've just found it to be an unnecessary step (again, for me). Full or empty is good - somewhere in the middle is not.

 

[ScottyCee]

I run myself almost out of gas at the end of the season, and then pump out the rest. I live about 10 miles from the ramp, so I don't need much...

OK, plan B is evolving. Instead of running them dry, I'll think I'll just run them for a few minutes at 3 months and 6 months with a separate tank of fuel / ring free / Sea Foam. Others (I consulted my race car buddy) have said that trying to run a FI motor dry is not going to work well and that makes sense.

Engine Fog huh? Tell me more. Are you talking about spraying into the intake while running, or via the plugs?

How do you like plan B? Will that remove engine fogging from the equation?

Thanks again!

 

[seasick]

Like Dennis, I don't run my tank dry. I don't fill it either. I do add stabil ( amount based on estimate of gas remaining in tank)and go for a run to get the entire fuel system treated. I have never had a problem with the gas in the spring.
Before changing engine oil, it helps to warm up motor.
I drain my onboard fuel filter and my VST tank. I do not change filters or plugs until after startup in the spring. I do fog by spraying oil into the plug holes. I spray all cylinders and then hand rotate the flywheel one half turn for 2 strokes or one full turn for 4 strokes and then spray fogging oil again. Then I give it another turn. Reinsert old plugs and lightly tighten
Pull the prop and inspect the prop shaft for line or other gunk. When draining the LU oil, if I see anything out of the ordinary I do a pressure/vacuum test.
Grease the zerk fittings so that if there is moisture, the new grease will squeeze it out.
When dropping the LU, note or mark the orientation of the trim tab so that you get it back in the right angle.
I make sure my batteries are fully charged. I leave them in but disconnect the ground cables on the no shore power boat but leave batteries connected on the boat with shore power/charger.

Winterizing the hull is another story and how much work depends on what systems you have.