I would like to use the dead space where my aux tank would go. Is there anybody out there that specializes in hatch construction. I would like it to look factory when done.
Thanks Ed
Thanks Ed
Foward Fuel Tank Hatch
- Thread starter 258 Grady
- Start date
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
My plan for a winter project is to remove the deck panel and use it for a template and construct one made of wood. Probably teak. It will have two hatches. One to access the fresh water tank / head holding tank area and the other for the space where the aux. fuel tank is not. I am going to put in another bottom in that space with round deck hatches in case I need to access bilge drain tubes located there. The stuff I keep there now is not totally dry and I'm limited by the size of the deck opening.
It would be a nice option for Grady to consider converting that space into a finished DRY space as an option if one chooses not to get the aux. tank. That way it would have a factory finish.
I'll post pics but, as I said, it will be a winter project. Now is fishing time!
It would be a nice option for Grady to consider converting that space into a finished DRY space as an option if one chooses not to get the aux. tank. That way it would have a factory finish.
I'll post pics but, as I said, it will be a winter project. Now is fishing time!
I did mine 2 winters ago. I looked all over for a hatch that looked "factory," but to no avail. I used the space for batteries, switch & charger.... and there was still plenty of room for additonal storage. The hatch is a surface mount model. There are only a couple out there that are large enough to get a battery through that were in my price range. Here's a couple of pix.
I had to add a structural support just aft of the hatch to support the deck, but other than that it was pretty easy. Before chopping away, I'd suggest drilling a hole small enough to fit a small mirror through. Stick the mirror in there and take a peek around with a flashlight. Good precaution against cutting a wire that's routed through that area... or worse! :shock:
It was well worth the effort. Especially to get the weight of the batteries moved further forward. I can tell you one thing... it's a real heart-racer to take a skil-saw to the floor of your Pride & Joy!
Good Luck
I had to add a structural support just aft of the hatch to support the deck, but other than that it was pretty easy. Before chopping away, I'd suggest drilling a hole small enough to fit a small mirror through. Stick the mirror in there and take a peek around with a flashlight. Good precaution against cutting a wire that's routed through that area... or worse! :shock:
It was well worth the effort. Especially to get the weight of the batteries moved further forward. I can tell you one thing... it's a real heart-racer to take a skil-saw to the floor of your Pride & Joy!
Good Luck
I was hoping to find a manufacturer that made new hatch inserts that looked factory. Beveled smooth edge with reveal and diamond pattern. There must be somebody that can make these panels.
Ed
Ed
Yeah, mine doesn't necessarily look "factory." It does have the diamond pattern, and it is watertight, but it's really just too white and it sticks up above the deck a little bit. Originally, i was thinking of adding some type of watertight seal to the existing hatch, and cutting out the well that is under there, but i couldn't think of a good way to do that.
258 Grady said:
Yes, it can be done. Problem is duplicating that diamond non-skid pattern is very labor intensive and is going to cost you and arm and a leg.
I've followed lots of projects both here and on ClassicMako.com where duplication of this pattern would have been warranted. However, in each and every case...except for one, the person doing the work (some professionals, others just super talented in the field of boat restoration) chose to sand off all the diamond pattern and put down standard non-skid.
The one time I saw it replicated....I was the one that did it. I am by no means as talented as those doing the other projects I followed, I'm just super anal and wanted everything to match. It was a small area so I figured I would give it a shot.
http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7681
You can either make the pattern yourself, or there is a product called Gibco Flex Mold that you can purchase. It comes preformed in the size you want. You may have to order a few samples to figure out which pattern (there are different ones) match your application.
Space for Aux tank
Its funny that so many people want the same thing. When I was l at a boat show last year one of the designers from GW was there. I asked him why they couldn't/ wouldn't make that space available with a hatch. He said that was the most often question he gets on the 226/228. He said that GW will not allow/build any space that will not drain overboard. We got down on our knees and he showed me that the space can not be designed for self draining. The drain hose would to be too high for the space to be worth the extra cost/ effort.
I really appreciated him talking to me about this. I thought it was really cool how a designer could spend 1 hour going over my style boat showing me why certain things were designed the way they were.
My last suggestion was to increase the beam to 8.6 instead of 8 to allow for realistic walkways around the cabin. He wrote it on his pad and said he would bring it up at their Monday meeting but it would be a major change to the design of the boat.
I want his job and told him so.
Its funny that so many people want the same thing. When I was l at a boat show last year one of the designers from GW was there. I asked him why they couldn't/ wouldn't make that space available with a hatch. He said that was the most often question he gets on the 226/228. He said that GW will not allow/build any space that will not drain overboard. We got down on our knees and he showed me that the space can not be designed for self draining. The drain hose would to be too high for the space to be worth the extra cost/ effort.
I really appreciated him talking to me about this. I thought it was really cool how a designer could spend 1 hour going over my style boat showing me why certain things were designed the way they were.
My last suggestion was to increase the beam to 8.6 instead of 8 to allow for realistic walkways around the cabin. He wrote it on his pad and said he would bring it up at their Monday meeting but it would be a major change to the design of the boat.
I want his job and told him so.
Check out a commercial fishing supplier like Hamilton Marine. They have a number of water tight deck hatches....not really cheap...but they do exist.
I'm looking at them for a potential project on my '90 Marlin. The aft cockpit "hatch" where the A/C unit and/or gennie goes is in my sights. I can't stand that I have to "cut" the silicone and unsrew the hatch just to access this space and the machinery down there.
I'm looking at them for a potential project on my '90 Marlin. The aft cockpit "hatch" where the A/C unit and/or gennie goes is in my sights. I can't stand that I have to "cut" the silicone and unsrew the hatch just to access this space and the machinery down there.