Front anchor eyelet problem on 226 Seafarer

[SirGrady226]

I remember after bringing this boat home and cleaning out the cabin storage compartments, I found a big pile of rusted steel in the forward compartment. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why it was there, or what it used to be. Looked like chunks of rusted out leaf springs. Well, while cleaning the front deck area, I noticed the anchor eyelet move when I went across it with the scrub brush. Turns out it's hooked to a long piece of all thread that's supposed to bolt to a big piece of steel for strength, there's nothing left of it to know what to replace it with. I'm hoping someone has a picture of what it's supposed to look like, it would be nice if it can be an easy fix.

 

[SirGrady226]

I imagine a previous owner stored a wet with salt water anchor rope up there, this caused the bare steel bracket to quickly rust away. I really need to solve this problem before using the boat, I won't be able to safely anchor up or use the eyelets without causing damage to the fiberglass. I'm hoping someone can take a picture of the bracket in place, and possibly give me measurements.

 

[everwhom]

Sounds like a Bow Lifting Eye assembly? https://www.boatingmag.com/how-to-install-lifting-eye

Definitely contact Grady - they can give you the specs...

 

[SirGrady226]

Just got off the phone with Grady White about the bare steel bow eyelet bracket that ties the top and front eyelets together. I was told they have no replacement or specs for me to use in order to have another built. Needless to say, I'm pretty disappointed, I have nothing left to use as a template that would allow me to fabricate another. I'm hoping this forum can help, need pictures and measurements of an original.

 

[SirGrady226]

Many thanks to all that have helped, my local welder that built my tank is making the bow bracket out of stainless steel. Funny after talking to Grady White, they were no help over the phone. But later they emailed me the drawing from the archives. So I will post it for others to refer to in the future.

 

[SirGrady226]

My welder really did a nice job fabricating the bracket, top grade stainless steel insures it is there to stay. Man, what a pain in the *%# installing it though. Those small areas just aren't made for my big hands and forearms, but I managed somehow.

 

[SirGrady226]

Another view.

 

[DennisG01]

That looks nice. I should have mine back from the welder sometime next week... we'll see how HE does!

 

[Finest Kind]

Many thanks to all that have helped, my local welder that built my tank is making the bow bracket out of stainless steel. Funny after talking to Grady White, they were no help over the phone. But later they emailed me the drawing from the archives. So I will post it for others to refer to in the future.

My 30 year old bracket needs replacing too. What I did in the meantime is affix a wire tie through the weaves of the rode approx 10 feet from the very end of the anchor line...so I know that when I see this tie come up through the anchor locker I need to STOP letting out line and tie off to the cleat because if I let out all the line the bracket probably will not hold the boat in any kind of seas now that it is so corroded.

Thanks for posting, but when trying to print out the drawing you posted it is very blurry and faint...practically illegible...but I see on the other post below that you do have a clear printout with legible measurements (under the new bracket).

Can you please re-post a clear pic of your printout or the original attachment Grady sent you?
Thanks!

 

[SirGrady226]

Many thanks to all that have helped, my local welder that built my tank is making the bow bracket out of stainless steel. Funny after talking to Grady White, they were no help over the phone. But later they emailed me the drawing from the archives. So I will post it for others to refer to in the future.

My 30 year old bracket needs replacing too. What I did in the meantime is affix a wire tie through the weaves of the rode approx 10 feet from the very end of the anchor line...so I know that when I see this tie come up through the anchor locker I need to STOP letting out line and tie off to the cleat because if I let out all the line the bracket probably will not hold the boat in any kind of seas now that it is so corroded.

Thanks for posting, but when trying to print out the drawing you posted it is very blurry and faint...practically illegible...but I see on the other post below that you do have a clear printout with legible measurements (under the new bracket).

Can you please re-post a clear pic of your printout or the original attachment Grady sent you?
Thanks!

The file Grady White sent me will not post to this site, most likely needs to be converted or something. I took close ups of the sections and hope that helps.

 

[SirGrady226]

Next section detail

 

[SirGrady226]

Total view.

 

[Finest Kind]

Thank you.

 

[DennisG01]

Got mine back today - looks pretty much the same as yours. For anyone else reading this, it's not like you have to copy this design exactly. And you don't even have to measure for all three holes at the same time. Drill the holes for the bow eye first, temporarily install it, then drop the threaded rod assembly down and mark where to drill. It's a 5/8" rod, but you can drill the hole to 3/4" to give you a little wiggle room. The nut is plenty big enough to account for the extra 1/8" - but you could use a washer, as well.

And, just for fun, what was original...

 

[glacierbaze]

Lot of people going down the road at 70 mph, and that is the only thing holding the boat to the trailer.

 

[SirGrady226]

Got mine back today - looks pretty much the same as yours. For anyone else reading this, it's not like you have to copy this design exactly. And you don't even have to measure for all three holes at the same time. Drill the holes for the bow eye first, temporarily install it, then drop the threaded rod assembly down and mark where to drill. It's a 5/8" rod, but you can drill the hole to 3/4" to give you a little wiggle room. The nut is plenty big enough to account for the extra 1/8" - but you could use a washer, as well.

And, just for fun, what was original...

So you had yours made from aluminum?

 

[DennisG01]

So you had yours made from aluminum?

No, it's still stainless. But they did a light sand blast on it to smooth out the appearance. I didn't ask them specifically to do it - it was a surprise!

 

[glacierbaze]

I will check mine this week, and start opening the anchor locker and rinsing it off when I clean the boat at the end of the day.

 

[SirGrady226]

Here is the attachment Grady White sent me for the 226 bow lifting bracket.

 

[Seadogger]

Got mine back today - looks pretty much the same as yours. For anyone else reading this, it's not like you have to copy this design exactly. And you don't even have to measure for all three holes at the same time. Drill the holes for the bow eye first, temporarily install it, then drop the threaded rod assembly down and mark where to drill. It's a 5/8" rod, but you can drill the hole to 3/4" to give you a little wiggle room. The nut is plenty big enough to account for the extra 1/8" - but you could use a washer, as well.

And, just for fun, what was original...

Got mine back today - looks pretty much the same as yours. For anyone else reading this, it's not like you have to copy this design exactly. And you don't even have to measure for all three holes at the same time. Drill the holes for the bow eye first, temporarily install it, then drop the threaded rod assembly down and mark where to drill. It's a 5/8" rod, but you can drill the hole to 3/4" to give you a little wiggle room. The nut is plenty big enough to account for the extra 1/8" - but you could use a washer, as well.

And, just for fun, what was original...

How thick and wide is your stainless ??