Just bought a 2001 282 that has been sitting for a year, gas tanks have been pumped out and filled up for a seatrial what should i be putting in to treat the fuel short term and long term, any other suggestions would be great. i have 200 hpdi's. thanx
fuel additive suggestions
- Thread starter jay harrison
- Start date
For me, no stabilizer during boating season since I add new fuel frequently. For winter layout, Stabil about 1 oz per gallon. I do use and recommend Yamaha Ring Free with every fueling. I use 1 oz per 10 gal gas.
Something good to do for free would be to remove and inspect the VST filter inside the VST tank. If it looks clogged, replace it. ($26.00) Inspect the inline filter in the plastic fuel bowl as well. You do not need to purchase a new O-ring for the VST tank so this could cost you nothing. Not really a fuel additive reply but for fuel that has been sitting in the VST, probably not a bad idea to check things out as this can be a problematic component.
Definitely check the VST filter. As for short term frequent use of the boat, I would use the Sta-bil for Ethanol fuel. A product called Stor -and-Start works well for long term storage.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Ringfree and Star Tron.
The cheapest place I have found to buy Star Tron is Home Depot. $6.99 a bottle which treats 128 gallons.
The cheapest place I have found to buy Star Tron is Home Depot. $6.99 a bottle which treats 128 gallons.
1st grady said:
You MAY not need to purchase a new gasket (35 bucks or so). It depends on how it looks. Often it will swell and be difficult to reinstall. You can put it in a freezer for a few hours to shrink it. You may also need a dab of sealant/adhesive here and there to keep it in place when reassembling. For my vst and probably yours, the VST screen/filter is about 60 bucks. So if you but two filters and two gaskets, you will shell out just under $200 dollars. I have said repeatedly that I don't support the practice of routinely opening up the VST. If something is suspect, then OK.
If a VST screen plugs, it usually does so slowly and shows up as a loss of power at higher revs.
Change you on motor fuel filter element and take a good look at the old one and the filter bowl. That will usually tell you if there was crud in the fuel. There is a drain screw on the VST. It is a messy operation to drain the tank but that will also help you determine if crud is in it. You need to save the drained fuel in a jar. If you drain, prime the tank using the primer bulb before turning on the ignition. That high speed pump doesn't like to run dry.
Ring Free and Marine Stabil both always, but the faster you use up fuel load, the less of a concern fuel quality is since "fresher" fuel used.
Ringfree on a shock treatment per label for initial use for so many gallons, 40-50 gallons total for both motors should do it. I use the aux fuel tank to do it, filled up to start.
Make sure oil rod adjustment is to spec, otherwise too much oil is no good. A very easy thing to check and adjust.
If someone doesn't know what a VST filter looks like, they won't know if it is plugged wit the sodium sulfate dust.
When you get it out, wrap thumb and index finger around the end of the filter where the seal is, squeezing it to seal well, then blow in the tube (nipple) with your mouth, it should blow like you don't have any restriction at all, if it is restricted, replace or clean it.
If the medium pressure filter was not replaced, get it now. That's the one in the metal can above VST tank, another easy job, not so cheap and can't be cleaned.
If you do the VST job right and protect the VST tank O ring from damage, which is easy basically taking your time, it can be reused, I reuse mine for 3 seasons. But should have a spare just in case you damage it, if it nicks, cuts, or you step on it after it drops on ground, get rid of it. An itty bitty leak under cowl and it can go boom, an itty bitty nick will do it.
If you drain the tank first and drop the bottom down as one of two methods, fuel never touches the O ring so it stays in place exactly, just keep the tank upright as you sit it to the side, some residual fuel is in bottom. This method is only suitable when on land, doing it on the boat too much to drop (in drink).
Dump both oil tanks, turn upside down, look in bottom, if sludge clean out, start with new oil, Yamalube is recommended - I see others using the best 100% synthetic Penzoil. When I use up my stock of Yamalube may go over to full synthetic. I'd also verify the oil alarm circuits at the motor tank, actually work. Another easy task.
The small block 150/175/200 HPDI is the best Yamaha motor ever built from day one, never a recall. It's essentially an upgraded OX66 (already perfect) with direct direction technolgy to create equal fuel efficiency or better, and similar enough exhaust standards to anything 4 stroke today.
Well over 10 yrs now in production, ironically the 200 HPDI is the only motor at 200 HP, including the entire first generation of 4 stroke Fs, it has lived by. Today, if anyone wants a 200 HP from Yamaha, only the 2 stroke 200HPDI is for sale today.
Good luck!
Ringfree on a shock treatment per label for initial use for so many gallons, 40-50 gallons total for both motors should do it. I use the aux fuel tank to do it, filled up to start.
Make sure oil rod adjustment is to spec, otherwise too much oil is no good. A very easy thing to check and adjust.
If someone doesn't know what a VST filter looks like, they won't know if it is plugged wit the sodium sulfate dust.
When you get it out, wrap thumb and index finger around the end of the filter where the seal is, squeezing it to seal well, then blow in the tube (nipple) with your mouth, it should blow like you don't have any restriction at all, if it is restricted, replace or clean it.
If the medium pressure filter was not replaced, get it now. That's the one in the metal can above VST tank, another easy job, not so cheap and can't be cleaned.
If you do the VST job right and protect the VST tank O ring from damage, which is easy basically taking your time, it can be reused, I reuse mine for 3 seasons. But should have a spare just in case you damage it, if it nicks, cuts, or you step on it after it drops on ground, get rid of it. An itty bitty leak under cowl and it can go boom, an itty bitty nick will do it.
If you drain the tank first and drop the bottom down as one of two methods, fuel never touches the O ring so it stays in place exactly, just keep the tank upright as you sit it to the side, some residual fuel is in bottom. This method is only suitable when on land, doing it on the boat too much to drop (in drink).
Dump both oil tanks, turn upside down, look in bottom, if sludge clean out, start with new oil, Yamalube is recommended - I see others using the best 100% synthetic Penzoil. When I use up my stock of Yamalube may go over to full synthetic. I'd also verify the oil alarm circuits at the motor tank, actually work. Another easy task.
The small block 150/175/200 HPDI is the best Yamaha motor ever built from day one, never a recall. It's essentially an upgraded OX66 (already perfect) with direct direction technolgy to create equal fuel efficiency or better, and similar enough exhaust standards to anything 4 stroke today.
Well over 10 yrs now in production, ironically the 200 HPDI is the only motor at 200 HP, including the entire first generation of 4 stroke Fs, it has lived by. Today, if anyone wants a 200 HP from Yamaha, only the 2 stroke 200HPDI is for sale today.
Good luck!