I'll head that way here shortly to get the boat and bring it back to the apartment so I can work on it easier. I'll post any pics if I have trouble. Dis see any pot or dip switches to date. And won't change gauges until I'm certain they are the same series.
Fuel Gauge Removal
- Thread starter retirednavy
- Start date
The dip switches if present may be under robber plugs. If I remember correctly, the number of stator poles is one setting and 2 stroke vs 4 stroke is another. Depending on what motor the new gauges came off of, you may not need to change anything.
Ok gents, out knocked it outta da park....success. had zero idea that was all I needed to do. But the zip tie should have clued me in.
Next issue, no fuel to my starboard engine. Need to do so research on how to test the fuel pump. There is zero fuel in the bowl and I was able to get fuel to flow through the line. Might be a air pocket. I'll fill the bowl up with fresh fuel tomorrow, and see if it will suck it in and start.
Next issue, no fuel to my starboard engine. Need to do so research on how to test the fuel pump. There is zero fuel in the bowl and I was able to get fuel to flow through the line. Might be a air pocket. I'll fill the bowl up with fresh fuel tomorrow, and see if it will suck it in and start.
Hookup1
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Not likely he pump at this point.
Try pumping the fuel primer bulb(s). They may be old and in need of replacement. Spin off fuel filter can. Replace it every year but fill with fuel before hand. Also filter on engine under cowling. Same deal. Of course make sure there is fuel in tank (don't rely on gauges if its a new to you boat).
Try pumping the fuel primer bulb(s). They may be old and in need of replacement. Spin off fuel filter can. Replace it every year but fill with fuel before hand. Also filter on engine under cowling. Same deal. Of course make sure there is fuel in tank (don't rely on gauges if its a new to you boat).
Done all that. Used the primer bulb to fill the bowl on the port side if the motor, but still no joy. Pulled a plug and didn't see any spark on it, not certain about outboars as compared to regular car engines.
Navy, as you can tell by our replies, it was kind of difficult trying to figure out what exactly you were talking about. If you can be clearer with your questions/etc, it will help us help you... and save us a lot of time/typing for nothing 
To that point... in Post #23 you said you have no fuel in the bowl. But in Post #25 you said you filled the bowl. Huh?
Yes, outboards make spark just like a car engine
BUT... how about you start with telling us exactly what engine you have? You mentioned OX66 which is a good starting point. But isn't it fuel injected? There wouldn't be a "bowl" (that's a carb thing).
To that point... in Post #23 you said you have no fuel in the bowl. But in Post #25 you said you filled the bowl. Huh?
Yes, outboards make spark just like a car engine
BUT... how about you start with telling us exactly what engine you have? You mentioned OX66 which is a good starting point. But isn't it fuel injected? There wouldn't be a "bowl" (that's a carb thing).
Hookup1
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Ok gents, sorry for the confusion. This is a new boat to "me", not a new boat overall. It was built in 2000 and has twin 200 HP OX66 Saltwater Series engines.
When I purchased the boat and had a survey done, the stbd engine ran hot. The dealer agreed to pull the heads and clean the cooling passages. After repairs, they say it ran, but I never saw it.
The boat has sat for two years while I've done other work. The port engine runs fine. The engines have a clear plastic bowl upstream the fuel line, before the fuel pumps, believe they are carburatored motors. It was almost empty with gas, so I filled it with the primer bulb in the bulge. I've tried to see if I can see spark on a pulled plug, but didn't. No reason to believe the engine won't run, it has just sat. I also cracked the drain bolt on the VST to make certain it had gas, albeit probably bad gas.
So any advice to help troubleshoot and make certain I have spark and probably blead the fual system to validate I have fuel to the carbs would be helpful. Regardless, I have an apt on the 16th to take it back to the dealer for them to look at it. AND, I am 100% certain that the colling system is still blocked, I can't get water to flow out of the thermostat port once I hook a water hose up to the motor like I can on the port engine.
So I want it started, and then I'll address the cooking issue. I know, I hear you, be careful not to overheat the engine, got it. It won't run long whe it's started so I can address the potential cooling issue.
Ray
When I purchased the boat and had a survey done, the stbd engine ran hot. The dealer agreed to pull the heads and clean the cooling passages. After repairs, they say it ran, but I never saw it.
The boat has sat for two years while I've done other work. The port engine runs fine. The engines have a clear plastic bowl upstream the fuel line, before the fuel pumps, believe they are carburatored motors. It was almost empty with gas, so I filled it with the primer bulb in the bulge. I've tried to see if I can see spark on a pulled plug, but didn't. No reason to believe the engine won't run, it has just sat. I also cracked the drain bolt on the VST to make certain it had gas, albeit probably bad gas.
So any advice to help troubleshoot and make certain I have spark and probably blead the fual system to validate I have fuel to the carbs would be helpful. Regardless, I have an apt on the 16th to take it back to the dealer for them to look at it. AND, I am 100% certain that the colling system is still blocked, I can't get water to flow out of the thermostat port once I hook a water hose up to the motor like I can on the port engine.
So I want it started, and then I'll address the cooking issue. I know, I hear you, be careful not to overheat the engine, got it. It won't run long whe it's started so I can address the potential cooling issue.
Ray
Lastly as background. When I purchased the boat, we did a sea trial and both engines ran, pushed the boat to 55 knots at WOT, albeit the stbd hot, hence the survey.
I want to flush any old fuel out of the line, make cartain I have it to the carbs, and if it still doesn't start, move on the ignition system.
And lastly, here is a pic of the port engine with the flushing line removed for flushing, This is how Yamaha says you are to properly flush an engine after use, And i pic of the thermostat cover at the top of the head where I can get water to flow from on this engine. The stbd engine will NOT flow any water into the system, so it will need to be address after I get the engine started.
Attachments
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Flush tube..jpg
I've removed all four thermostats to check cooling flow, they are in a cup with CLR getting cleaned.
The fuel system does not have to be bled in general. If the primer bulb is OK, that is all you need but it can take a lot of squeeze's to refill the VST tank if it was drained.
If the clear fuel bulb is completely full, you probably have a leak. In normal operations, the fuel filter will have some air at the top (depending on how it is mounted).
On those engines, it is important to test if the motor runs hot at idle and cools down as the motor is sped up, or if it runs OK at idle but hot at speed and under load.
I am not sure about your particular model but many SX models disable a cylinder or two ad low revs ( below about 1500). They do that by turning off the spark so sometimes testing for spark can lead you to the wrong conclusion..
Your motor is not carbureted, it is fuel injected. The things you think are carbs are throttle bodies.Do you have a service manual for that motor? There are lots of things to check, some easy to do and some that required special tools
If the clear fuel bulb is completely full, you probably have a leak. In normal operations, the fuel filter will have some air at the top (depending on how it is mounted).
On those engines, it is important to test if the motor runs hot at idle and cools down as the motor is sped up, or if it runs OK at idle but hot at speed and under load.
I am not sure about your particular model but many SX models disable a cylinder or two ad low revs ( below about 1500). They do that by turning off the spark so sometimes testing for spark can lead you to the wrong conclusion..
Your motor is not carbureted, it is fuel injected. The things you think are carbs are throttle bodies.Do you have a service manual for that motor? There are lots of things to check, some easy to do and some that required special tools