Fuel level sensors, what type? Fuel flow settings for Axiom Pro

[Beyond A Wake]

The Yamaha CL7 display asks for fuel sensor type ABYC, Yamaha or ? Does anybody know what GW installs in the Freedom 335 (only one tank) as I seem to get really weird information not only on level but also on "fuel used" as shown on my Raymarine Axion 16.

Now I am just counting hours and miles and asssumin 1mpg when figuring how much fuel is left in tank after fill up.

H

 

[Beyond A Wake]

Talked to local dealer tech who advised that the sensor is indeed an ABYC type sensor. So that is now set and waiting for all to be reset after I next time fill the tank.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Now I am just counting hours and miles and asssumin 1mpg when figuring how much fuel is left in tank after fill up.

You should get the actual fuel burn & mpg and remaining fuel (in gallos) from the CL7. No need to assume. The fuel level sensor has nothing to do with that.

 

[Beyond A Wake]

I do get that info but it has not been calculating the available fuel taking off used amount from full tank on CL7. The Raymarine was the one giving strange burned fuel values On trip info page.
Anyway I do think I have it figured out now so have to do a refill and set all as full and we will see.

Hans

 

[Beyond A Wake]

Continuing on this Saga;
talking to Yamaha rep at boat show he told me to make sure other tanks than the one in use need to be marked unused. Ok that I have had all the time.
Then he said the calibration need to be made (remember I flipped between ABYC and Yamaha type senders) since I may have reset the setup inadvertently.
I am still reading only - - - after FULL goes away. BUT I am also reading ex. 78% on gauge and same number shows on Raymarine with an estimated remaInning fuel number 78% of set full number. That's all ok but why doesn't the CL7 show the available number as that same ??
So the rep said I need to recalibrate but I don't understand how that would change anything as it already show 78% which is accurate.
Calibration can be done by Single point or multiple point and if not at all it is "default" He said single point is done by setting the gauge at "0" level, which I cannot do without emptying tank, not going to happen, OR maybe I could remove sensor from tank and set it as zero when float is down. Multiple point cannot be done either so DEFAULT is what I have used.
I am at a loss with this as I know 78% and I know FULL level volume, why does CL7 not calculate the "Available " volume???? I don't see how it would have anything to do with calibration.

HE also said there are no CL7 available anymore they just use CL5 now so "take care of your unit" was the message. MAy be a Garmin would work as CL7 is a Garmin.

Any thoughts??

PS it all started after all batteries were disconnected. But cutting power should do the same!!!!!!!!! After each run.

H

 

[RJTFD]

Continuing on this Saga;
talking to Yamaha rep at boat show he told me to make sure other tanks than the one in use need to be marked unused. Ok that I have had all the time.
Then he said the calibration need to be made (remember I flipped between ABYC and Yamaha type senders) since I may have reset the setup inadvertently.
I am still reading only - - - after FULL goes away. BUT I am also reading ex. 78% on gauge and same number shows on Raymarine with an estimated remaInning fuel number 78% of set full number. That's all ok but why doesn't the CL7 show the available number as that same ??
So the rep said I need to recalibrate but I don't understand how that would change anything as it already show 78% which is accurate.
Calibration can be done by Single point or multiple point and if not at all it is "default" He said single point is done by setting the gauge at "0" level, which I cannot do without emptying tank, not going to happen, OR maybe I could remove sensor from tank and set it as zero when float is down. Multiple point cannot be done either so DEFAULT is what I have used.
I am at a loss with this as I know 78% and I know FULL level volume, why does CL7 not calculate the "Available " volume???? I don't see how it would have anything to do with calibration.

HE also said there are no CL7 available anymore they just use CL5 now so "take care of your unit" was the message. MAy be a Garmin would work as CL7 is a Garmin.

Any thoughts??

PS it all started after all batteries were disconnected. But cutting power should do the same!!!!!!!!! After each run.

H

So curious if you ever resolved this issue? I’m having similar issue and would like to know if there is easier way than empty tank or filling tank and removing sender? Neither suggestions by Yamaha make any sense.
thanks

 

[Beyond A Wake]

I did resolve it for the CL7 side. I have not resolved it on the raymarine side. I does show running miles and hours and on CL 7 I do get how much fuel is used but Raymarine figures are completely whacky. I have not reset the entire Axiom set up as I dont want to have to redo it all but will at some point bite that bullet as the Master unit started to not zoom in and out with the control wheel it now just zooms out completely showing a world view almost.
The way I calibrated the unit was by buying a new sender, disconnecting leads from tank and connecting to new sender (outside tank) letting the float be at bottom ie empty tank and push calibrate on unit. After that was done I reconnected to old sender in tank (nothing was wrong with it, I had just by mistake asked it to calibrate which screwed it all up and since tank was not empty and I could not drain it a calibration could not take place) with it reconnected I filled up tank and it all worked except raymarine.
The cost of a new sender was just about $40 so I kept the sender as a spare and as "calibration" unit if needed.
So get a sender and use it outside of tank for recalib. Then reconnect to old sender and it should be fine.
H

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

The way I calibrated the unit was by buying a new sender, disconnecting leads from tank and connecting to new sender (outside tank) letting the float be at bottom ie empty tank and push calibrate on unit.

Your solution is a nice hack, but Is there no way to recalibrate or reset a CL7 gauge?
As far i remember it is possible on the 6YC i had before and the CL+ gauge i have actually.

The Yamaha CL7 gauge is nothing else than a Garmin 7407 MFD and the Manual is here to find.
A factory reset would cancel everything and the CL7 has to set up again, i suggest to disconnect the CL7 from the NMEA2000 network to exclude that other connected devices could be affected.

Chris

 

[RJTFD]

I did resolve it for the CL7 side. I have not resolved it on the raymarine side. I does show running miles and hours and on CL 7 I do get how much fuel is used but Raymarine figures are completely whacky. I have not reset the entire Axiom set up as I dont want to have to redo it all but will at some point bite that bullet as the Master unit started to not zoom in and out with the control wheel it now just zooms out completely showing a world view almost.
The way I calibrated the unit was by buying a new sender, disconnecting leads from tank and connecting to new sender (outside tank) letting the float be at bottom ie empty tank and push calibrate on unit. After that was done I reconnected to old sender in tank (nothing was wrong with it, I had just by mistake asked it to calibrate which screwed it all up and since tank was not empty and I could not drain it a calibration could not take place) with it reconnected I filled up tank and it all worked except raymarine.
The cost of a new sender was just about $40 so I kept the sender as a spare and as "calibration" unit if needed.
So get a sender and use it outside of tank for recalib. Then reconnect to old sender and it should be fine.
H

Makes more sense. Right now I have maybe 3/4 tank about 220 gallons est. when I calibrate the external sensor and reconnect the existing sensor will it read 3/4 or bottom of tank(outside sender).
Thanks this way sounds way more logical than Yamaha answer.

 

[Beyond A Wake]

It calibrates as showing bottom (empty) with the external sender when u make sure the float is all the way down. When you then reconnect to in tank sensor it will register the level it are at. Remember all info it gives out is a resistance value based on the location of the float. It thinks you filled the tank to 3/4 when you reconnect. Do the connections with power off.
Hope this makes sense.

 

[RJTFD]

It calibrates as showing bottom (empty) with the external sender when u make sure the float is all the way down. When you then reconnect to in tank sensor it will register the level it are at. Remember all info it gives out is a resistance value based on the location of the float. It thinks you filled the tank to 3/4 when you reconnect. Do the connections with power off.
Hope this makes sense.

Yes it makes sense. I’m thinking any sender should work since empty is empty? Do I need a sender specific to my tank or the one that I currently have?
Thanks
Ralph

 

[seasick]

For stick not float type senders, there are situations where the sender reads the resistance for bottom but the tank isnt empty as in the case where the sender lengh is too short for the tank depth. Note also that the sender sits a bit above the tank floor. That can be a half to an inch of space
. Therefore the gauge may read empty but there is some gas in the tank. In addition, regardless of the sender position, the fuel pickup will also sit above the tank bottom although not by a lot (hopefully).

 

[RJTFD]

For stick not float type senders, there are situations where the sender reads the resistance for bottom but the tank isnt empty as in the case where the sender lengh is too short for the tank depth. Note also that the sender sits a bit above the tank floor. That can be a half to an inch of space
. Therefore the gauge may read empty but there is some gas in the tank. In addition, regardless of the sender position, the fuel pickup will also sit above the tank bottom although not by a lot (hopefully).

I understand I’m just wondering if what the above poster posted since all I’m doing is connecting a sender externally to the tank just to read empty if it matters what length sensor I’m using for it.

 

[seasick]

I understand I’m just wondering if what the above poster posted since all I’m doing is connecting a sender externally to the tank just to read empty if it matters what length sensor I’m using for it.

No the length doesn't matter. That said, if you disconnect the pink sender wire, the gauge should read empty. If you then ground that pink wire to a good ground, the gauge should read full. That is decent test of the gauge and sender wiring. It is not perfect though but easy to do

 

[ACV]

Continuing on this Saga;
talking to Yamaha rep at boat show he told me to make sure other tanks than the one in use need to be marked unused. Ok that I have had all the time.
Then he said the calibration need to be made (remember I flipped between ABYC and Yamaha type senders) since I may have reset the setup inadvertently.
I am still reading only - - - after FULL goes away. BUT I am also reading ex. 78% on gauge and same number shows on Raymarine with an estimated remaInning fuel number 78% of set full number. That's all ok but why doesn't the CL7 show the available number as that same ??
So the rep said I need to recalibrate but I don't understand how that would change anything as it already show 78% which is accurate.
Calibration can be done by Single point or multiple point and if not at all it is "default" He said single point is done by setting the gauge at "0" level, which I cannot do without emptying tank, not going to happen, OR maybe I could remove sensor from tank and set it as zero when float is down. Multiple point cannot be done either so DEFAULT is what I have used.
I am at a loss with this as I know 78% and I know FULL level volume, why does CL7 not calculate the "Available " volume???? I don't see how it would have anything to do with calibration.

HE also said there are no CL7 available anymore they just use CL5 now so "take care of your unit" was the message. MAy be a Garmin would work as CL7 is a Garmin.

Any thoughts??

PS it all started after all batteries were disconnected. But cutting power should do the same!!!!!!!!! After each run.

H

I hanged to a CL5 (smaller cut out so beware). Had to select the sensor type ABYC. I removed the snake a d slide the float up and down the shaft and watched the corresponding level indicator on the CL5. Worked perfectly. Good luck!

 

[Aquanut2]

I did resolve it for the CL7 side. I have not resolved it on the raymarine side. I does show running miles and hours and on CL 7 I do get how much fuel is used but Raymarine figures are completely whacky. I have not reset the entire Axiom set up as I dont want to have to redo it all but will at some point bite that bullet as the Master unit started to not zoom in and out with the control wheel it now just zooms out completely showing a world view almost.
The way I calibrated the unit was by buying a new sender, disconnecting leads from tank and connecting to new sender (outside tank) letting the float be at bottom ie empty tank and push calibrate on unit. After that was done I reconnected to old sender in tank (nothing was wrong with it, I had just by mistake asked it to calibrate which screwed it all up and since tank was not empty and I could not drain it a calibration could not take place) with it reconnected I filled up tank and it all worked except raymarine.
The cost of a new sender was just about $40 so I kept the sender as a spare and as "calibration" unit if needed.
So get a sender and use it outside of tank for recalib. Then reconnect to old sender and it should be fine.
H

Instead of paying $40 for a new back up sender you can use a 240 ohm resistor for a few cents which is what a sender reads when tank is empty. Conversly it will read full at 30 ohms and ½ a tank at aprox 135 ohms. I used a resistor to determine the tank numers pin outs on my CL5 as cables were not availible durring covid so I made one myself.

 

[Beyond A Wake]

After Radio Shack disappeared all small electronic components got harder to pick out while browsing around. But yes that is possible to do and it certainly is less costly.