You don't check voltages for a fuel sender. It is a variable resistance device, we called them rheostats in older days.
There will be an access plate on the deck or some other way to access the sender. The sender is usually near where the fuel pickup is connected.
I assume your green wire is the ground. Both senders have a connection to a ground which is usually a connector on the fuel tank if metal. The tank itself must also be grounded. That connection will run to a ground buss somewhere and that does not have to a physical connection at a battery. There is a thickish cable at a battery that is smaller size than the heavy one that connects to the motor. The smaller one runs to a common terminal connection and that most likely will be under the helm.
For a simple test, locate the aux sender wire that connects the sender to the tank selection switch. It may be pink. Unplug it from the tab on the sender and connect it using a piece of wire to a good ground. You can try the ground connection on the sender/tank. If the gauge now reads the correct level, your sender is probably bad.
If it still doesn't work, connect the sender pink wire to a known good ground using a piece of wire that will reach the battery negative terminal (either battery if you have two)
If the gauge reads correctly, your tank ground is bad.
If both those test fail, you need to find where the wire from the sender connects to the tank selector switch. That should have three connections, one common that feeds the gauge (that works since the main tank reads levels)
The other two connection are the feeds from each tank. Jump each one to a ground and see what the gauge does. If it reads full for each terminal, the wire for aux tank is bad.
The switches don't go bad often so in all likelyhood, you have a bad sender or a bad tank ground