Fuel Tank Sensor

[igblack87]

I'm hoping someone can help me!!

I have a 2001 180 Fisherman and recently had the fuel gauge malfunction on me. I filled the tank the other day and noticed the fuel gauge level was still blinking on the last bar...I opened the fuel tank cover between the bench and console and realized that it was pretty nasty/damp on top of the fuel tank. The wires leading to the fuel gauge sensor probably got wet and need to be replaced. Has anyone had this issue?

I guess their are two issues here:

1. Fuel sensor replacement...what is involved?

2. What is the best way to clean around the fuel tank/inner hull of the boat. It has all nasty gunk and damp (bilge is working fine).

I can get some pictures later this week.

Thanks for your help!
igblack87

 

[Tucker]

Yep, had a 21 Escape and had the exact same problem. Caulk breaks down and/or O-rings on the inspection covers begin to leak. I cleaned everything with a stiff brush and vacuumed up all the debris. Need to do that or it'll end up on your bilge pump screen. I used an aftermarket replacement and I can't remember the name but it was much better than OEM and fairly cheap. The need to know the boat and the length of the sensor. The sensor was highly recommended here, do a search here and I'm sure it'll pop up. Don't over-tighten the screws. Now's time to pull up those hatches and recaulk. Replace the inspection cover O-rings too.

 

[igblack87]

Thanks for the info! I will be cleaning out the o-rings and replacing them all. Going to find a vacuum and clean that and the bilge out anyways...caked with crap!!!

Might be a silly question but how do I find out the length of the sensor? Is unscrewing it from the fuel tank going to set the electronics on my dash into a fit? I would think disconnecting the batteries would be a good idea as well!?

Thanks again.

 

[Tucker]

Shouldn't cause any problems at all. In fact to determine the gauge is working properly; if you touch both wires it should register full. To determine the length of the sensor you need to remove and measure it. This is where you usually knock a bunch of crap into the tank.

 

[ROBERTH]

Assuming you have an aluminum tank, good idea to pull floor panel, clean up real good and inspect. Sometimes, the wires are not so bad, but need new terminal connectors that you heat shrink with a heat gun. No fumes please during this part.

I replaced mine with WEMA brand and they work great. I did have one of the new one's malfunction like you mention but that was a bad terminal connection.

After cleaning, carefully remove the screws to the sender and remove sensor. Measure length and you can get same length from WEMA. Replacement is strait forward, but don't use rubber seal on the aluminum. Try to get the cork version so it will not react with the aluminum.
Don't over tighten the screws....don't want to strip them. :mrgreen:

 

[igblack87]

Great, thanks everyone. Ill let you know how it goes...with some pics!

 

[Tucker]

Wema is the name I was trying to think of. I do remember calling to get the sender with the correct connector. I replaced both sensors on my Sailfish and it was plug and play. Great product.

 

[ROBERTH]

If I recall, I had to request the cork gaskets and don't recall if I ended up getting them from WEMA or elsewhere.

 

[Tucker]

Very easy to overtighten screws and distort gasket. Snug only

 

[igblack87]

Do I need to grease or lube the cork gaskets? It would seem that they arnt as sturdy as rubber or some other type? Can you explain why these are the preferred?

Thanks,
igblack87

 

[Tucker]

Believe mine were rubber, and a little grease would never hurt.

 

[ROBERTH]

I was told the rubber ones are what causes the aluminum corrosion due to the carbon content in the rubber reacts. Every time I had one with rubber, it was corroded, so used cork now for a few years and a couple times when removed, no additional corrosion. Just a thought.

 

[igblack87]

Point taken! Ill look into the cork gasket when I order the sensor. And ill make sure not to tighten the screws to much!

 

[igblack87]

I did forget one question...how are the holes in the new valve from WEMA compared to the pre drilled holes in the gas tank? Does anyone have an idea?

 

[ROBERTH]

Should be exactly same. I have never found this to be an issue. There is an orientation for them, so you just spin it until all the holes line up.

 

[Enough Already]

Just replaced both of my 13-year old sensors today. Pretty simple operation. Call Grady and they can give you the exact part number replacement. For my 2001 265 Express, Wema was OEM. I am fortunate to live near their HQ in Ft. Lauderdale, so I was able to pick up in person. Get the gasket and new screws kit for $5.50. They have a new gasket made out of Viton (whatever that is) and it is supposed to be even more superior in corrosion resistance. The screws have tiny rubber washers on them as well, which makes the new screw kit a necessity in my opinion. The senders were $45 and $47 and very easy to replace. I needed to replace wire end connectors because they were very corroded and may have actually been the root cause of my problem.

 

[Parthery]

Pretty easy fix...I've done it more than once.

Call Grady and get the depth of the tank from them...subtract 1/2" and that is the length sender you need.
Hop on www.wemausa.com and order the sender.
Take your time when you remove the old sender...you don't want to (a) strip the screws (done it) (b) drop screws in the tank (done it) or (c) overtighten the sender when you reinstall it.

Either way, replace the o-ring on the inspection plate to keep the water out.

 

[ROBERTH]

If you already have a WEMA installed, it might reveal the length already. Here is mine and it was 16" you can see in pic.

Also, good point to get the screw and seal kit. Viton should be good. Just not standard rubber.

 

[Enough Already]

Well, now I'm a little frustrated. After replacing the fuel senders, re-ending the wires and even installing a new switch at the helm, my Yamaha gauge still shows 1-bar flashing when the switch is on main. If I switch to aux, it accurately shows the fuel level on the Yamaha gauge. And yes, I put a lot of gas in the main tank. What am I missing???

 

[ROBERTH]

Time to test the wiring and switch.

If you disconnect the wire terminal from fuel gauge, does it remain the same? Check the ground also to make sure it is grounded. Not just the tab on the tank, but from the tank to the battery.
Make up a test wire and run it from the tank to the switch and see if it fixes it and do same for ground.

This is where it becomes a pita to figure out. Good luck.