Any information on gas tank suppliers/price. Has anyone replaced them? 1987 24 Offshore with a gas leak, expecting the worst. Thanks
Gas Tanks - help
- Thread starter georgemjr
- Start date
I hear good things about this company, am going to get mine from them next year.
http://www.patriotmarinefab.net/1650552.html
http://www.patriotmarinefab.net/1650552.html
Atlantic Coastal Welding in Bayville NJ did mine. Good work, good price. They are just outside of Tom's River.
Legend
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I used Patriot Marine last year when replacing my tanks on my Sailfish. Replaced both tanks. The service was top notch. I went up to pick them up, the guys gave me a tour of the plant and showed me in detail how the tanks were made.
Great Experience.
Sinclair
Great Experience.
Sinclair
acw in nj. i took out my tanks and replaced with one big one. awesome job. they worked with me. no more threeways or switching, just one big tank now.
I bought mine from the guys in FL that made the original tank. I paid shipping and got a tank that fit the first time around.
I figured doing the install myself covered the shipping.
I figured doing the install myself covered the shipping.
Other guys with older Gradys, you can save the tank before it leaks, but have to pull it to inspect it and stop the pitting corrosion if going on, no need to wait until it leaks.
The tank will last forever if not for tiny perforations from corrosion, typicaly.
DIY stopping the corrosion is easy, hardest part is labor getting it out and back in, also can do fuel vent /fill/feed lines then, and clean the internals, and new level sensor.
Although not so good a time now, end of season is better.
And it' s not a pay me now or pay ne later deal, it's more like pay itty bitty now, avoid paying hand over fist later, at the most desperate time when it occurs - per Murphy's Law.
The tank will last forever if not for tiny perforations from corrosion, typicaly.
DIY stopping the corrosion is easy, hardest part is labor getting it out and back in, also can do fuel vent /fill/feed lines then, and clean the internals, and new level sensor.
Although not so good a time now, end of season is better.
And it' s not a pay me now or pay ne later deal, it's more like pay itty bitty now, avoid paying hand over fist later, at the most desperate time when it occurs - per Murphy's Law.
How do you stop the corrosion or fix the damage? My tank wasn't leaking but i will bet you there wasn't a 1/32-in of metal left in some of those pits on the botto of my tank.
It is not advised to try to fix a hole in a gas tank when it is has already perforated, unless you can get someone to weld and they know how to run a continuous purge of Nitrogen while welding, otherwise stand on the opposite side of the marina when they are working, and wear a hardhat.
Many times, NOT ALWAYS, the corrosion is galvanic type, and limited to pits, in an area isolated to under a few of the neoprene strips. There is a reason for this. The pits on my tank were about an 1/8 inch diameter, a few a bit more, perhaps the biggest 3/16in.
If the corrosion is broad based and thinning large areas of continuous metal, that's different, BELOW DOESN'T APPLY:
The tank is 1/8 in. alum, not much to begin with but a lot more than you will believe in strength for the application.
But a fine pit does not weaken the tank since the area is tiny vs a square inch. even if the pits are numerous but well spread out, so, all the tank has to be capable of is passing a pressure test, I think the design is 4 psig (lbs per square inch), it will be on the tank's nameplate, verify it.
Fine well spread out pits will pass any pressure test, assuming the pit is less than say no more than 50% of the depth , you can eyeball this after cleaning the area.
So you clean the area, I use a cone shaped dremel stone (LIGHT TOUCH ON SLOW SPEED NOT TO MAKE HEAT NOR PENETRATE THE TANK AND GO KABOOM) to get the pits cleaned out as a prep for primer.
Sandpaper the rest of the.
As an option, you fill pits with marinetex flush, and smooth and apply alum primer. Let it dry, now renew surface of neoprene strips by running a belt sander over them both sides while stepping on one end on a piece of scrap wood, makes them nice and grippy - takes the shine off, clean with denatured alcohol and bond to the tank with LIFESEAL, full face seal.
Then when you are done, take a vacation on what you saved, and have a beer on me.
If you keep the boat 3-5 more years, pull the tank and do same inspection to verify condition, do the same every 3 - 5 yrs, tank will last as long as the 30 + yr old jet you flew out on vacation!
Same aluminum both are made of !
And your boat motor wil run theh same, old tank / new tank.
Be carefull working around gas and gas tanks, if you don't know what you are doing, don't mess with it, contract out.
Good luck.
Many times, NOT ALWAYS, the corrosion is galvanic type, and limited to pits, in an area isolated to under a few of the neoprene strips. There is a reason for this. The pits on my tank were about an 1/8 inch diameter, a few a bit more, perhaps the biggest 3/16in.
If the corrosion is broad based and thinning large areas of continuous metal, that's different, BELOW DOESN'T APPLY:
The tank is 1/8 in. alum, not much to begin with but a lot more than you will believe in strength for the application.
But a fine pit does not weaken the tank since the area is tiny vs a square inch. even if the pits are numerous but well spread out, so, all the tank has to be capable of is passing a pressure test, I think the design is 4 psig (lbs per square inch), it will be on the tank's nameplate, verify it.
Fine well spread out pits will pass any pressure test, assuming the pit is less than say no more than 50% of the depth , you can eyeball this after cleaning the area.
So you clean the area, I use a cone shaped dremel stone (LIGHT TOUCH ON SLOW SPEED NOT TO MAKE HEAT NOR PENETRATE THE TANK AND GO KABOOM) to get the pits cleaned out as a prep for primer.
Sandpaper the rest of the.
As an option, you fill pits with marinetex flush, and smooth and apply alum primer. Let it dry, now renew surface of neoprene strips by running a belt sander over them both sides while stepping on one end on a piece of scrap wood, makes them nice and grippy - takes the shine off, clean with denatured alcohol and bond to the tank with LIFESEAL, full face seal.
Then when you are done, take a vacation on what you saved, and have a beer on me.
If you keep the boat 3-5 more years, pull the tank and do same inspection to verify condition, do the same every 3 - 5 yrs, tank will last as long as the 30 + yr old jet you flew out on vacation!
Same aluminum both are made of !
And your boat motor wil run theh same, old tank / new tank.
Be carefull working around gas and gas tanks, if you don't know what you are doing, don't mess with it, contract out.
Good luck.
Yamama
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I used ACW also. Excellent work and delivered here in Maine in less than a week from time of order.http://www.speedytanks.com/
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Both Florida Marine Tank and RDS made aluminum tanks for GW at one time.
I used RDS to replace the tank on a 19 Tournament that I owned. They had the plans and were able to custom build me the exact replacement in less than a week's time, then deliver it to my door via UPS.
Their phone number is: 850-584-6898
I used RDS to replace the tank on a 19 Tournament that I owned. They had the plans and were able to custom build me the exact replacement in less than a week's time, then deliver it to my door via UPS.
Their phone number is: 850-584-6898
Tank life
Is there an average life for Grady tanks? What is the best way to test the condition of a tank? How often should it be done?
Is there an average life for Grady tanks? What is the best way to test the condition of a tank? How often should it be done?
Scott W.
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Replacement Gas Tank for 1991 228G Seafarer
Just replaced my 19 year old original Grady-White 93 gallon gas tank with one that was manufactured by Phil at Alloy Metal Works in Farmingdale, NY (631)694-8163 alloymetalworks.com. I found out that most of the marinas on Long Island use Phil for all their gas tank needs and then mark up the same to their customers. First I siphoned out most of the gas, then I removed my tank by placing two rachet straps under the tank and then racheted up the tank to the deck. The tank doesn't weigh too much when it is empty (about 60 lbs). I cleaned up my bottom rusted tank (not leaking yet) and dropped it off at Alloy Metal Works; they also disposed of my tank at no extra charge. They charged me about 1/2 the amount that the original manufacture (located in Florida) wanted for the same; I paid about $750 with a WEMA fuel sender. Before I installed the tank, I applied Zinc Chromate Primer to the tank then glued neoprene strips with 5200 to the bottom of the tank where the hull supports meet the tank. I also replaced all the fuel lines. By doing this job by myself, I saved approximately $1,000 in labor costs.
Just replaced my 19 year old original Grady-White 93 gallon gas tank with one that was manufactured by Phil at Alloy Metal Works in Farmingdale, NY (631)694-8163 alloymetalworks.com. I found out that most of the marinas on Long Island use Phil for all their gas tank needs and then mark up the same to their customers. First I siphoned out most of the gas, then I removed my tank by placing two rachet straps under the tank and then racheted up the tank to the deck. The tank doesn't weigh too much when it is empty (about 60 lbs). I cleaned up my bottom rusted tank (not leaking yet) and dropped it off at Alloy Metal Works; they also disposed of my tank at no extra charge. They charged me about 1/2 the amount that the original manufacture (located in Florida) wanted for the same; I paid about $750 with a WEMA fuel sender. Before I installed the tank, I applied Zinc Chromate Primer to the tank then glued neoprene strips with 5200 to the bottom of the tank where the hull supports meet the tank. I also replaced all the fuel lines. By doing this job by myself, I saved approximately $1,000 in labor costs.
Tell me if this was sensible. I pulled my main tank two years ago, and after cleaning it well, I epoxied two layers of woven roving on to it before I put it back in the boat. Pitting was shallow, so I decided to reuse the tank. The fiberglass that is visible is still firmly bonded to the tank, so I assume the lower end is still good too.
since it a patch repair using adhesive on a metal surface, you really can't assume it is all good....you'll just have to see how it goes and if you smell gas fumes at any point. If you do, its time for a new tank.
I wouldn't consider it just a patch repair. The tank is completely encased in two layers of fiberglass. The reason I originally pulled the tank is because of a leak in the fuel fill hose. Figured that while I was in there anyway...richie rich said:
Sorry WDog, I assumed you were reffering to Bobs repair over surface pitting.......not just ecapsulation over perfectly good material......but being in the business of adhesives, I still think you can't assume that what looks good from above, means its good all over.....over time, spotty delamination can happen for various reasons.....so you either have the suggestion Bob mentioned and check the work every so many years to be sure, or, just let it ride......
I just used RDS , they had made original tank for my 19. They made the exact replacement ,Sam there new the exact tank needed . Tank was about $400.00, 62gal. Freight to CT was about $100, Had a new tank in less than two weeks.
A real professional company to work with
A real professional company to work with