Gauge panel screw replacement

[max366]

I have a 265 Express and needed to get access to the fuse block to add a power lead for the electric head. As recommended on this site, I removed the gauge panel and the fuse block was then readily accesible.
However, the SS machine screws that hold the panel down are screwed into an aluminum rivet (perhaps threaded on the inside?) which are attached to the console fiberglass. The problem is the dissimilar metal corrosion that occurs over time between the SS and aluminum, making some of the screws impossible to remove- I had to break them.
I would like to remove the rivets and put in another threaded receiver but in SS. I'm thinking of a tee nut and would epoxy them to the fiberglass but I am wondering if anyone else has encountered this and come up with a solution?

 

[duconce]

Yes, I had some broke off by previous owner, replaced with nutserts from Aircraft Spruce. The tool is 9.50 and the nutserts are 28 cents ea. They are aluminum but if you put a little anti-seize on them you shouldn't have a problem. Thought I would add the part number for the tool, AAT916-832 expendable nutsert tool, if you are interested.

 

[gw204]

You could try a helicoil as well.

 

[duconce]

There is not enough material in the existing nutserts to use a helicoil. When you run a drill in them they are very thin in the middle where they compress. These are 8-32 screws, these nutserts are barely a 1/4" in diameter compressed.

 

[gw204]

I meant put a helicoil directly into the fiberglass.

 

[gw204]

Or you could try drilling out the center of broken part of the machine screw and then collapsing the threads inward to remove the piece. Even if you mess up the threads in the insert all is not lost. The screws that GW put in aren't long enough to engage off of the threads. When I had one strip, I just put in a longer screw.

 

[max366]

Thanks for the input and suggestions. I've been doing a lot more research on this and one thought is to drill out the hole in the FG slightly and put in a press fit SS threaded insert that has epoxy applied to its sides. The holding power isn't such an issue so it should work and then it's SS against SS. Any reason this won't work?
Here's the pic of the insert, which is made to go into plastics.

 

[JeffN]

Max where are you sourcing those inserts please?

 

[max366]

My company works with McMaster Carr, so I got the inserts, the black oxide SS screws, and the black oxide SS washers from them. I'll be getting them tomorrow and hope they're what I'm expecting!

Here's what I bought

Line Quantity Item Reference
1 1pack 92394A114
92394A114 303 SS Press-Fit Insert without Flange 8-32 Internal Thread, 5/16" Length, packs of 10
$14.46 pack
2 1pack 91249A201
91249A201 Black-Oxide Fnsh Pan Head Phil Machine Screw 18-8 SS, 8-32 Thread, 1" Length, packs of 50
.
8.21 pack
3 1pack 96765A120
96765A120 Black-Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel Flat Washer NO. 8 Screw Size, 3/8" OD, .02"-.04" Thick, packs of 100
.
3.87 pack

 

[Curmudgeon]

I used plastic wall anchors. Works fine as long as just snug the screws. Haven't had one fail yet ... :?