Gelcoat Sanding, Polishing, an Waxing

[rolltide]

I just bought a 1995 Sailfish 272. It's in pretty good shape. I've replaced all the pumps, fuel lines, upholstery, and some of the elctronics.

Now I'm on to the gelcoat finish. The hull has a little shine to it. I removed all the old registration and some striping. The areas underneath are the shiniest on her. They are a little yellowed. Is that the original color of the coat?

I've tried several things on the yellowed areas including sanding, polishing, and 3M restorer. Will I get the color the same? It seems when you sand it, the area around the old letters takes on a similar color to the yellowed areas. The hull has a more dull look after everything I try. Does that go away with the waxing? Should it shine after polishing? The top side is pretty oxidized. I've never done any gelcoat restoration. I'm paranoid about damaging the coat.

 

[gregsnow]

I used the Meguires system on my last boat and it restored beautifully. Use an electric buffer and stay in the shade. Be ready for a sore back but its worth it. Take notice however, when your boat has age and sun damage it will stain and dull much quicker than a new boat even after the resto.

Roll Tide all the way.. 8) 8) 8)

GS

 

[Reel Soon]

Meguires three part system is the best.
http://www.meguiars.com/?boat-rv-kits/F ... ion-System
The original Grady color is the off-white not sure if that is the yellow you are talking about. Do a search on this site on this subject, lots of info. Good Luck!

 

[jehines3]

Here is the most tried and true method after professionally detailing boats and cars for many years. The auto version of all the 3-M is far cheaper and cuts the same as the marine versions.

If you have a noticable color difference from removal of stickers start with 800 wet, go to 1000 wet, keep well lubricated with water (spray bottle works best.) Blend these areas out to surrounding areas. If the oxidization is very high on your boat you may need to wet sand the entire thing.

Next use 3M Heavy duty rubbing compund on a wool on a high speed polisher (NOT an Orbital). Its tan in color and you can feel the grit in it.

Next got to a 3M perfect-it or Finessee-it on a egg crate foam pad. Use for light colored vehicles.

Next Wax with Collonite Marine Wax

Be very careful around sharp edges and corners to not burn through the gel.

If you have the polisher, the resat in auto versions shouldn't set you back more than $100. Stop by the Drug store and get some Motrin, you'll need it. jh

 

[gw204]

What's under the stripes is the original color. Everything else has faded.

I've used the Meguiar's kit referenced above and it does a great job. Plan on 10 hours per hull side. It's a brutal job...but the results are great!

 

[CJBROWN]

Here is the most tried and true method after professionally detailing boats and cars for many years. The auto version of all the 3-M is far cheaper and cuts the same as the marine versions.

If you have a noticable color difference from removal of stickers start with 800 wet, go to 1000 wet, keep well lubricated with water (spray bottle works best.) Blend these areas out to surrounding areas. If the oxidization is very high on your boat you may need to wet sand the entire thing.

Next use 3M Heavy duty rubbing compund on a wool on a high speed polisher (NOT an Orbital). Its tan in color and you can feel the grit in it.

Next got to a 3M perfect-it or Finessee-it on a egg crate foam pad. Use for light colored vehicles.

Next Wax with Collonite Marine Wax

Be very careful around sharp edges and corners to not burn through the gel.

If you have the polisher, the resat in auto versions shouldn't set you back more than $100. Stop by the Drug store and get some Motrin, you'll need it. jh

I am also partial to 3M products with a lon history of detailing as well. It is the most widely used product in the automotive industry. Meguires is fine, I'm sure they've improved their product over the years. Have actually called on their home office in Irvine.

Just a couple of additions to JH...
3M's compound is their 'imperial finishing compound' and it will cut the oxidation and bring a good gloss. These products are found at an automotive paint store, or online from detail supplies like http://www.topoftheline.com

A polisher is a specialized tool, it's not high speed, they turn about 2500-2700rpm. A high-speed is a grinder, they run about 10,000rpm. You don't want the latter.

The new foam pads and finishing compounds are the current standard. The old way was with a swirlmark remover and a polishing bonnet. 3M swirl mark remover are outstanding, but here is where I'll usually switch to a Meguire's product - I think they call it No. 9. Seems to me you can buy a half a quart of Mequires product where 3M are all quart or gallon containers and the stuff is expensive.

If you haven't buffed a fine finish, practice on something less critical as it's easy to burn off more than you wanted, espcially on any corners or edges. Grady gel coat is quite a bit thicker than other builders, but you can still burn through if you take off too much. Certainly thicker than paint!

Be sure to use a screwdriver or cleaning tool on the wool pad occasionally to clean out the dried compound. You hold it perpendicular against the pad and run the buffer and it will blow out the compounding dust.

And yes, those orbital polisher thingy's are junk.

Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.

 

[plymouthgrady]

WAXING

Depending on how "gone" the gelcoat is, I would suggest a heavy or super
duty compound before going to the wet sanding. The original color you see, under hatches, anchor locker, is faded and is gone. Wet sanding produces excellent results but I would use as a last resort. Wet sanding is an almost art form and I would not like to see you "try" it on your Grady. Earlier posts are correct you can burn right through you gel coat.

 

[freddy063]

did you try fiberglass poweder clearer and stain remover, made by boatlife? I't haves a all strong bleaching action. wet the area put it on work it in for a bit, then let it set. Hose it off and the whole area where you just did will all be whiter.

 

[rolltide]

With all of the compouning or sanding, will I lose all of the remaining stripes an lettering?

 

[plymouthgrady]

compounding

no, you can compound and wax the graphics. they will actually shine really nice. I'll try to post sime pics when I'm done w, my boat.

 

[oldmil007]

Re: compounding

no, you can compound and wax the graphics. they will actually shine really nice. I'll try to post sime pics when I'm done w, my boat.

Errr , this is an area where you may want to tread lightly!

Depending on how aged/weathered the stripes and lettering are, some light polishing compound or just waxing may be safer. You might also want to just start by hand, not using a power tool.

Try an inconspicuous spot first and then gradually increase the strength of the wax/polish/compound and method used to restore to the maximum while avoiding taking the color out of the stripes and decals.

- Jay

 

[rolltide]

For anyone else going through the same situation, I have some updates on what has and hasn't worked for me.

I've tried Meguiars and 3M products. I achieved almost the identical results. The difference was 3M did it in 2 steps versus 3.

I ultimately got better and faster results sanding. Wet and dry.

I never did get the "like new" results that other people have gotten. Maybe my finish was just too far gone. She looks good, just not "like new". She had been rack stored outside on the NC coast for 8 years.

Has anyone else ended up with similar results?