Hi folks, I had a bracket full of water at the end of last season. 2000 Gulfstream. To ensure everything is OK I’ve pulled the twin Yamaha 150s and I’m now preparing to remove the Gil bracket. Any words of wisdom prior to attempting this? I’m concerned with what might be bonding the bracket to the transom and depending on what that is what solvent I should use. Thanks!
Gil bracket removal
- Thread starter Dlrjr123
- Start date
Why pull the bracket? You could scope it for inspection. I suppose you could pull it then reseal it to make sure it's water tight. Make sure you get a new plug and washer/gasket as it is the likely culprit to your water problem.
Agree. I wouldn't pull the bracket unless I found an absolute need to do so. You should easily be able to figure out the leak source without pulling the bracket. Another common source is the pie plate/access plate (assuming you have one). FYI, there really wouldn't have been any reason to pull the engines, either.
But... a sharp razor blade and fishing line can be used to help break the seal. You should, however, be able to break the bracket free just be rotating/twisting the bracket.
But... a sharp razor blade and fishing line can be used to help break the seal. You should, however, be able to break the bracket free just be rotating/twisting the bracket.
Thanks everyone, I was similarly advised by some of my local help. My position was take care of everything at once and not worry about any subsequent issue. Replacing the deck plate and the bottom plug are both on the “to do” list. If I can confirm whether or not the 8 through hull studs are threaded into the bracket or welded that will make the job much easier as I would use a wire to cut any adhesive. Thanks again!
blindmullet
Well-Known Member
I did this before installing a new bracket. If you start bending and twisting to get the bracket off I would say good luck on the reinstall. 
If you have a Gil bracket with the bolts mounted to the bracket you wouldnt want to damage them.
Razor knife around the edge.
Debond to help gum the adhesive up
Wood wedges - made my own.
The wedges will slowly separate the adhesive. You also wont bend the stainless bolts because it will come out even. All the holes have adhesive sealant as well.
You can try heavy power pro or other fishing line. You will run into the bolts. I thought it was a pain using the line, but it does cut.
If you have a Gil bracket with the bolts mounted to the bracket you wouldnt want to damage them. Razor knife around the edge.
Debond to help gum the adhesive up
Wood wedges - made my own.
The wedges will slowly separate the adhesive. You also wont bend the stainless bolts because it will come out even. All the holes have adhesive sealant as well.
You can try heavy power pro or other fishing line. You will run into the bolts. I thought it was a pain using the line, but it does cut.
Wooden wedges sounds like a great idea. I’m guessing that confirms my concern that the bolts are not threaded into the bracket but permanently affixed. What de-bonder would you suggest? Thanks for the advice.I did this before installing a new bracket. If you start bending and twisting to get the bracket off I would say good luck on the reinstall.
Razor knife around the edge.
Debond to help gum the adhesive up
Wood wedges - made my own.
The wedges will slowly separate the adhesive. You also wont bend the stainless bolts because it will come out even. All the holes have adhesive sealant as well.
You can try heavy power pro or other fishing line. You will run into the bolts. I thought it was a pain using the line, but it does cut.
blindmullet
Well-Known Member
My bolts were part of the bracket. I used the Marine Debond and unfortunately it is very pricey. I used it sparingly and still have some left over. There are other products, but this one is pretty safe around the boat.
Thanks,
I'm still deciding whether to just re-caulk where the bracket meets the transom (a water test showed some weeping there as well as the plastic screw plug). My concern now isn't the leaks as I'm confident I can fix those. Its the inside of the tank where much of the paint has peeled off. Would you recommend pulling the bracket so the inside can be refinished? Or try one season and see how the enterior holds up? I contacted GW and they recommended re-caulking. I did not tell them however that the paint was a mess on the inside. Thanks again.
blindmullet
Well-Known Member
I think you could reseal from the outside. Mine had multiple sets of motor holes. 2 were filled with silicone. Check that, drain and reseal after you paint.
I would have kept mine if it would have worked with the new motor.
I would have kept mine if it would have worked with the new motor.