Grady 232 Jack Plate Repair

[Wanago]

Purchased the boat which is a 1998 with a Yamaha F250 several years ago. Have went thru prop changes and trim tab modifications to try and improve boat performance at mid range speeds. Finally decided to replace motor with a larger horsepower single which I am waiting on delivery. In the meantime, purely by chance, I discovered that the Jack Plate was absolutely full of water. I am guessing this has been there since I purchased it. I had always tapped it to check for water and it sounded empty. We only discovered it while backing the boat up and hearing the water moving inside. I drained out about 15-20 gallons of water, re-sealed the upper and lower drain and inspection plate and went for a sea trial. It was a totally different performing boat with speeds in small chop of 27-28 mph at 4400 rpm. Anyone interested in a extremely well maintained Yamaha 2007 f250 with all controls and cables with 700 hrs? I repair Yamaha's and this engine has had all factory upgrades including upper seal sleeve and has upgraded lower end with no exhaust issues. Lesson here is to check your Jack Plate since inspection plate is notorious for leaking.

 

[Don Davis]

Just curious but do you mean the Grady factory pod had water In it? If so I have never heard it called a jack plate, but I’m relatively new to Grady boat ownership, thanks.

 

[Wanago]

Yes. It was the Grady factory motor mount.

 

[grady23]

In all likelihood its a bracket made by the GILL Corporation that is no longer in Biz. I cut out the original inspection plat and enlarged the hole to accept a double gasketed inspection plate. Replaced the "O"-ring in the drain and the inside has remained dry ever since. Purchased the replacement inspection unit at West Marine, but its probably cheaper online. The original design SUCKS and the screws have a poor bite when trying to tighten them. I used #8 stainless screws to mount the new unit along with a high quality silicon sealant. I can post a picture if you want.

 

[Ted R]

I recently replaced my 2004 original plate in my Gil bracket with a compression plate from Armstrong. I had to enlarge the hole, but so far no water intrusion. I caulked around the plates as well because I have no reason to access the area. Grady uses Armstrong brackets on the new boats they produce. Great product.

 

[Kev]

Purchased the boat which is a 1998 with a Yamaha F250 several years ago. Have went thru prop changes and trim tab modifications to try and improve boat performance at mid range speeds. Finally decided to replace motor with a larger horsepower single which I am waiting on delivery. In the meantime, purely by chance, I discovered that the Jack Plate was absolutely full of water. I am guessing this has been there since I purchased it. I had always tapped it to check for water and it sounded empty. We only discovered it while backing the boat up and hearing the water moving inside. I drained out about 15-20 gallons of water, re-sealed the upper and lower drain and inspection plate and went for a sea trial. It was a totally different performing boat with speeds in small chop of 27-28 mph at 4400 rpm. Anyone interested in a extremely well maintained Yamaha 2007 f250 with all controls and cables with 700 hrs? I repair Yamaha's and this engine has had all factory upgrades including upper seal sleeve and has upgraded lower end with no exhaust issues. Lesson here is to check your Jack Plate since inspection plate is notorious for leaking.

What do you want for the F250

 

[wires38]

I put a 1/2" by 1/8 bushing in the drain hole with a Schrader valve to add a wee bit of air. Soapy water around to mark any bubbles for areas to recaulk. After cleaning loose caulk all around the meeting of the bracket to the transom. I remove the bushing and thread a 1/2" pvc pipe nipple in there to attach a vacuum with a rag. Then when recaulking the caulk gets sucked in a bit. Makes a nice repair. The bracket helps everything float.

 

[wires38]

I put a 1/2" by 1/8 bushing in the drain hole with a Schrader valve to add a wee bit of air. Soapy water around to mark any bubbles for areas to recaulk. After cleaning loose caulk all around the meeting of the bracket to the transom. I remove the bushing and thread a 1/2" pvc pipe nipple in there to attach a vacuum with a rag. Then when recaulking the caulk gets sucked in a bit. Makes a nice repair. The bracket helps everything float.