Grady 273 Chase Fuel Tank Replacement

[Palm Geo]

First Post; Recently smelled fuel in my 2004 Grady 273 Chase. Sure enough the water coming from the rear bilge was not water but fuel. After obtaining ridiculous quotes to remove, fabricate and replace; I decided to do it myself.

Thankfully, Grady doesn’t foam in their tanks and this was more of a muscle project. The tank weighs about 200lbs and it had a hole in the lower front of the tank. Contacted Grady in North Carolina (252) 752-2111, Eddie Rowe was very helpful and provided the specs for the fabrication of a new tank. The new tank was made in Miami (Sunshine Marine 305-805-9898) for $2400 and asked them to shorten it by 3/4” from the front. The tank was well built with ballast, sending unit and metal fuel pick up tubes.

Changed the fuel fill hose, vent hose, all fuel lines, water fuel separator and primer balls.

The tank is held in by fiberglass blocks that should be marked to use in the same location. Also opened the bottom of hull compartment that houses the conduit from center bathroom to rear and changed the conduit. A little fiberglass to close it back up. Added 3/4 rubber mat strips for the tank to rest on and allow water beneath.

Lifted the tank with ratchet straps from the front and tipped the tank to the boats edge and into a pickup truck.

Recycled the old tank for $108

Happy to talk about this before anyone else tries this. See photos

 

[efx]

Wow, that original tank looks beat. Nice work on the new tank. Should last a good twenty years.

 

[brdawg2001]

Nice work!!! I have a 2002 and still good.

 

[loubeer]

Impressive work - thanks for sharing!

 

[Palm Geo]

The tank manufacturer stated that my tank suffered from a bad ground connection. As always boats are plagued with ground issues.

 

[Hookup1]

What kind of shape is the hatch in? Given the shape of the tank I got to believe its leaking.

 

[Palm Geo]

The hatch is in great shape; used 1/8” rubber strip on the hatch ledge. Used backer rod before sealing with 4200.

 

[coldpizza]

Looks like good work! Did you shorten it to allow the new tank to fit into to the existing location better? Or was there another reason?

 

[Toothpick 10]

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

 

[seasick]

You probably should not have used 4200 but time will tell.
Number one, if you need to remove the hatch, it will be a bi**h to get off and number two, 4200 is an adhesive primarily and does not flex when cured like a sealant.

 

[Palm Geo]

Reply to the (2) previous;

4200 was recommended, yes we’ll see;
I almost used 5200 which would have been a disaster.

Shorten the tank for easier install. The tank needed a crow bar to remove and damaged the fiberglass on the footrest. After fiberglass repair I installed an 3m Orange pad; my favorite color.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I like to remove the tank hatch every year. I was using roof& gutter or Window & Door GE silicone (probably the same thing...marketing...).
It seals the hatch really well but I noticed that it loses the bond to the rings of the round deck ports. Sticks to gelcoat but not the plastic. This year I used 3M 3000UV oops I meant 4000UV will see if that is different.

 

[seasick]

I am both surprised and not surprised about adhering to the access plate rings. A lot of plastics don't 'glue' well, that is well known, but I didn't think the deck plates were made with one of those plastics.
Let us know how the 3M stuff works out