Hello all - need some help. I'm doing a seatrial on a 2009 Grady 305 Express. Twin 2019 Yamaha 300's with 600hrs. Boat has been drydocked and used on weekends for last several years. I've had 4 Grady's and know about the transom issues, any thoughts on this year 305? Any major problem areas to look out for? Specifically has anyone had issues with the transom on this model? Appreciate the help in advance.
Grady 305 Express Transom Help
- Thread starter NJFisher
- Start date
In researching 305's before I bought mine, I didn't see any transom issues reported. This could be because it was a newer model with a short production run. So, there were only a small number of boats that were made and haven't had a chance to have transom issues yet. In conversations with Grady they stated that there is also no wood on the boat with the exception of the house and gunnels. The boats that I have seen also have the vinyl transom cap rather than the crappy metal version in older models. Someone posted a while back that they were getting water intrusion under the cap and into the bilge at the transom. I have not experienced that. however, i have also sealed around the transom cap/bang plate. We have also gotten a lot of water over the transom as we fish rips. What I have seen reported is water intrusion and rot in 330s along the sides by the through hulls. I had a marlin fail a survey with water intrusion in the side and on the gunnels. I would get the boat surveyed and also consider an oil analysis on the engines as the 300's have a history of making oil. I have 8 seasons on my 305, let me know if you have any specific questions.
Appreciate the input. Yes, this 2009 I'm looking at has the vinyl transom cap as you mentioned, not metal. What year is your hull?
Fishtales
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 8,183
- Reaction score
- 1,329
- Points
- 113
All GWs are built all pretty much the subpar same. The vinyl cap is there to dress up (hide) the seam between the liner and the hull. The side plastic pieces are there to do the same in for the motorwell corners. All are attached with screws into the core which is likely XL Greenwood or maybe a composite for your year. Check with GW Cust Service as the transition was done over a number of years. I'm guessing XL. Marine plywood is probably the worst in this construction followed by XL and composite. The problem with the latter two is delamination not as much rot. (2) motorwell scupper flaps which are screwed into the core as well. One garboard drain that is also in the core. All of these could have been addressed if the areas were holed and solid glass, but that appears to be too difficult for GW to do.
You know the risks, too many screws on the cap and plastic pieces that if breached allow water into the core. The vinyl bang cap is a concern because there is a full length joint that is basically filled with caulk and if breached (which you don't know because the cap is under the motors and only can really come off if you remove the motors. If the boat was stored outside, I'd find out if in a cold area (freeze cycles can aggrivate delamination) and if the boat was shrinkwrapped or properly covered. Check the hard top bottom edge. Look for freeze chips. Water can get in and when freezes it can chip the bottom gel coat off. Look for other coring spots for softness.
It really comes down to was it all done correctly at the factory and did the owner inspect and timely resolve any observed issues. Not something that can be addressed here, I'd get a survey and have a competent person determine if the core is wet or not.
You know the risks, too many screws on the cap and plastic pieces that if breached allow water into the core. The vinyl bang cap is a concern because there is a full length joint that is basically filled with caulk and if breached (which you don't know because the cap is under the motors and only can really come off if you remove the motors. If the boat was stored outside, I'd find out if in a cold area (freeze cycles can aggrivate delamination) and if the boat was shrinkwrapped or properly covered. Check the hard top bottom edge. Look for freeze chips. Water can get in and when freezes it can chip the bottom gel coat off. Look for other coring spots for softness.
It really comes down to was it all done correctly at the factory and did the owner inspect and timely resolve any observed issues. Not something that can be addressed here, I'd get a survey and have a competent person determine if the core is wet or not.
Great info, appreciate it. Much of what you said is why I had the transom redone on my last Grady. Fortunately the one I'm about to seatrial is in FL, so pretty much no cold weather issues.