I just took the metal transom bracket off of my 2007 Grady White 330 express to replace it with the vinyl cap and glass it over but discovered the attached pics and the fiberglass guy got moisture readings in the engine bracket holes. Any reccomendations on how to fix- will I be ok to replace just the top area or should I do a full transom replacement- and if so cost wise what do you think it will be around? Thanks!
Grady White 330 express- metal transom bracket rot
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Small holes should be drilled in different locations of the transom to determine how far the water has propagated to determine if a full replacement is needed. There is an aluminum channel embedded at the top of the transom. Water and the preservatives are reacting with the aluminum creating the discolored powder and possibly some bulging. Bulging can be from water saturated plywood expanding from freezing if you are in a cold climate. If you are lucky, only the top part will be replaced. My SWAG is $4k on a partial and up to $10k for the whole thing. Prices will depend on what neck of the woods you live in.
If the fiberglass guy only got 'moisture readings in the mounting holes, you lucked out. That said, I am not sure how experienced that fellow is with actual moisture/rot investigation. There will usually be some relative moisture in a cored transom. In fact if a suitable moisture meter can read zero moisture for a perfectly OK structure as well as read zero for a transom that has become totally hollow.The absolute readings are not as important as relative readings to other areas of the hull.With respect to the apparent rot where the cap normally is, try poking the core with a thin screwdriver to see if all you feel is mush or if the initial mush changes to solid material. If there is that condition and the distance from the otside and near mush to the solid core is a couple of inches or less, you may be in OK shape and not need a full core rebuild.
Remove the garboard drain and do like seasick said , using a thin screwdriver to push in at an angle as far as you can. Drill 1/4 inch holes all around the area covered by the engine brackets and use a thin tool like an icepick at an angle to check for mush. If work is not performed, a little Marine Tex will seal the holes and be covered by the engines. Do the same thing after removing screws from any attachments on the transom like transducers or retainers for 'ducer cables, also trim tab ram bolts can be removed and checked also. I had a 228G that went bad and here in SW Florida I was told to expect $6-$10K depending on the stringer attachment area and such. This was for work being done at a shop. Lots of variables.
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You can get a quick "easy" look at the wood by removing the brass motorwell drain tubes
look at pix in this thread https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/transom-maintenance.37746/
look at pix in this thread https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/transom-maintenance.37746/
What did the fiberglass guy recommend after getting the moisture readings? I would remove the drain tubes and have a look. They probably should be replaced at this point anyway.