grady white fuel tanks....

blackgrady

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i have the original tanks in my 85 trophy pro. they are full of junk and even after i cleaned them before this season they are still clogging the pickups. the last thing i need to do is pop a motor from running lean.

so....

since it is in the slip already, i was hoping someone out there has replaced their tanks in a trophy pro and has the measurements or drawings so i can make this a quick swap. i really want to just order 2 poly tanks of a similar size and be done with it. hopefully a 1 day event and back to fishing.

its a twin outboard with the open transom, no bracket. front tank is 150 and the rear is 73 i believe.

thanks in advance guys,
steve
 

no problem

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I have not replaced mine yet but I believe you are being a little optimistic about how long this will take to do correctly. It was quite a chore to replace just the fuel lines on my boat. To keep my season going I would look into fuel polishing. not sure if that would clean sediment from bottom of tank or not. good luck with your project.
 

blackgrady

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When I had the tanks out last time I replaced the deck fills, the fill lines, the vents, the vent hoses, all of the fuel lines, the filter housings, the primer bulbs, the vro pumps, oil lines, every single clamp, ran new grounding wires, new sending unit wires, new sending units and and new deck plates. I'm good to go if I can just order a poly tank close to the same size drop them in and roll. In all honesty it shouldn't take more than like 2 hours. I drained the main allready and the aux has no more than 15 gallons.


Steve
 

no problem

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Ok sounds like the hard work has already been done. I would think Grady customer service could supply you with the specs for the tanks that are in there now. Good luck with your project.
 

Parthery

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Call or email RDS. http://www.rdsaluminum.com

They were one of GW's suppliers back in the 80s and likely have the plans on file. All they will need from you is a CC number, and UPS will deliver the tank to your door.
 

gradyfish22

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Why poly? A lot of poly tanks are having issues with ethanol degrading them so look into the particular material your tank builder will use, also poly tanks in bigger sizes do not hold up as well without baffles in them for strength, so I would not expect to get the same size tank out of the same space. Personally I would personally stick with aluminum, a thick wall and well built tank will last over 20 years if done right. There are a lot less issues with a good aluminum tank if built to a high standard.

A 1 day turn around is possible but highly unlikely unless you have a great crew and are very handy. For 1 or 2 guys who might be somewhat handy but have never done this before it might be a 2 day job between removing the deck, the old tank preping the old surfaces, filling old mounting holes, and then installing the new tank and fastening it down, then reinstalling the deck...that too needs prep work, I would fill the old holes with a caulk or sealant, going into the old holes dry will allow water seepage and will rot that wood that holds the deck down, then you need to caulk the deck itself. GE Silcone sealant II in almond is a great match in color and quality. I just recaulked my whole boat last year.
I'm also not sure if its legal to do the job in the water, each state is different but if you leak any fuel when taking the old tank out it could be a big fine if caught, doing it on land is safer and easier to prevent a spill. Also how are you removing the tanks, by hand will be tough, a hoist would be better, a tank with some fuel in it will be heavy, a new empty tank is still heavier then you think but might be manageable with a group of guys. Make sure you have a plan that can be executed well and that your prepared for every step of the job so it goes smoothly, do not cut corners or it will cost you down the road with a lot more work.

As far as tank sizes, Grady should be able to supply you with outer dimensions, that is what your looking for so you know what will fit.
 

seasick

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gradyfish22 said:
Why poly? A lot of poly tanks are having issues with ethanol degrading them so look into the particular material your tank builder will use, also poly tanks in bigger sizes do not hold up as well without baffles in them for strength, so I would not expect to get the same size tank out of the same space. Personally I would personally stick with aluminum, a thick wall and well built tank will last over 20 years if done right. There are a lot less issues with a good aluminum tank if built to a high standard.

A 1 day turn around is possible but highly unlikely unless you have a great crew and are very handy. For 1 or 2 guys who might be somewhat handy but have never done this before it might be a 2 day job between removing the deck, the old tank preping the old surfaces, filling old mounting holes, and then installing the new tank and fastening it down, then reinstalling the deck...that too needs prep work, I would fill the old holes with a caulk or sealant, going into the old holes dry will allow water seepage and will rot that wood that holds the deck down, then you need to caulk the deck itself. GE Silcone sealant II in almond is a great match in color and quality. I just recaulked my whole boat last year.
I'm also not sure if its legal to do the job in the water, each state is different but if you leak any fuel when taking the old tank out it could be a big fine if caught, doing it on land is safer and easier to prevent a spill. Also how are you removing the tanks, by hand will be tough, a hoist would be better, a tank with some fuel in it will be heavy, a new empty tank is still heavier then you think but might be manageable with a group of guys. Make sure you have a plan that can be executed well and that your prepared for every step of the job so it goes smoothly, do not cut corners or it will cost you down the road with a lot more work.

As far as tank sizes, Grady should be able to supply you with outer dimensions, that is what your looking for so you know what will fit.

I don't believe there are issues with poly and ethanol. Fiberglass, yes and some aluminum due to shedding of the oxidation.

With regard to replacing the tank, if the boat has a removable deck to access the tank, the job is a lot easier than if it doesn't. Some models have access decks, some don't.
Even if the deck can be removed, easily, 2 hours doesn't sound like enough time to replace all those parts. It could take a while just to cuthrough the deck sealant and then who knows what you will find underneath.
 

Grog

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No way is that at 2 hour job. The fills are thru-bolted and access is limited (being nice), getting the deck(s) up can be a 30 minute job depending on how much it fights you, pulling the old fill hose out if it goes through bulkheads and stringers is a major PIA, vent lines(s) are also in a limited access area, you're probably going to have to cut some of the old tank supports (bolted from the deck side into the support), you just can't drop the new tank in it's going to have to be lined up and secured properly, new fuel feed line(s), then putting the hatche(s) back on (you did clean the old silicone off the hatche(s) and deck). If all goes well 2 guys 5 hours but figure 8 and you're buying the beer and dinner.
 

Pez Vela

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Did you notice "Florida Marine Tanks" label on the tanks? If so, they should be able to provide the tanks' dimensions.
 

seabob4

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I have an "in" with Ray Veal at RDS as well as an "in" at Inca tanks in Nashville...can save you a bit of change...
1sm088doubleup.gif
 

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

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seabob4 said:
I have an "in" with Ray Veal at RDS as well as an "in" at Inca tanks in Nashville...can save you a bit of change...
1sm088doubleup.gif

Bob, i had called Inca and told me to call Wellcraft in order to buy, they would not sell me even with the model # and all info on the tank i wanted.
 

BobP

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Remove screen from pickup and add racor or equal filter.

Get a handfull of elements.

Tank will eventually clean itelf thanks to ethanol.

Change filter twice with first tank full.
 

Grog

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They're 25 years old! Not pulling them and at least checking them for corrosion is rolling the dice. My aux tank looked decent from the outside but the inside had major pitting. I found out after popping a hole in the bottom by scuffing it before painting.

Get the parts, borrow someone's trailer and knock the job out in a day with a buddy.
 

blackgrady

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Grog:

i replaced EVERYTHING related to fuel in the spring but the tanks(see above post). i pressure checked the tanks to 3psi with a smoke machine and was satisfied with the lack of corrosion, and cleaned them out to what i thought was good.

it will be no more than a half day job with a buddy, no if ands or buts about it. The tanks are all but empty(see above), and if myself and a friend cant lift them out again i will renew my gym membership when i finish the job. I'm a former master audi technician and current shop manager, i'm more than handy.

i was leaning towards poly to save some weight and hopefully get away from the corrosion issues, but if that is not the case i will research it further. i can get a 58 gallon and a 140, so i will not loose that much capacity, and i want the extra room for expansion and contraction.

as far as the filters go, i'm just starting to get leary of running the 2 strokes out of fuel, the last thing i need is to make one go boom. im on set #3 with maybe 30 hours.



cheers,
steve
 

blackgrady

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come to think of it, i didnt notice a screen on the pickups....looks like im going back in there first to check it out
 

seabob4

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NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
seabob4 said:
I have an "in" with Ray Veal at RDS as well as an "in" at Inca tanks in Nashville...can save you a bit of change...
1sm088doubleup.gif

Bob, i had called Inca and told me to call Wellcraft in order to buy, they would not sell me even with the model # and all info on the tank i wanted.

I just bought an Inca tank through my Inca Rep for one of the guys on my site...they work with me, if you know what I mean...and it was an OEM tank for a V20 Wellcraft.
 

Grog

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It's not rocket science to change the tanks and those alone can be done in 4 hours but if you don't do the hoses, don't bother pulling up the decks.
 

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS

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I hope you have better luck than me though removing your tanks. I'm trying to remove a tank from a Formula for the last :oops: month and i CAN'T. :shock: :shock: