A few weeks ago I noticed my macerator went out on my 2003 GW 283. First thing I checked was my fuse which was blown. I replaced it and tried again - pop - blown again. I climb into my center console and into the compartment where the holding tank/macerator are located. Luckily I am a fit person and can fit into this opening. I undo the nuts that hold the macerator in place on top of the holding tank, the two hoses and have to cut the wires due to heavy corrosion on the connecting block on top of the macerator. I want to let everyone know first off this is not an easy job and let me tell you the smell says enough. Now with the macerator out I noticed it is corroded big time on top and the pump assembly!! I recommend everyone who has a head with a built in tank/macerator to flush out each one of theirs with fresh water after each use!! Keep in mind the macerator sits in salt water or fresh depending on where your located and can not be good for the pump and hardware. I was able to free up the motor and reinstalled it. I also was able to flush the tank out with fresh water and emptied it. When I put it back in I knew I had a 50/50 chance it would run the next time I tried it due to the heavy corrosion built on to the whole macerator pump assembly. The boat sat about a week and a half when I tried it again. Nothing - Blown Fuse Again!! So if anyone knows where I can buy a new Groco macerator pump below $430.56 :shock: (Fairfield Supply) please let me and the other GW owners know who might have the same problem on their boats where to buy them? Sorry for the long story but I wanted to let everyone know what it takes to get one of these out!! Thanks!!
Groco #155-6110-12 Macerator For GW 283 or Other Models
- Thread starter Potterbuilt
- Start date
Faced a similar problem a few years ago, when our macerator pump was just plain frozen. It was located inside the holding tank, and I didn't look forward to removal/repair.
After comparing the costs, I took a course of action that was not the least expensive, but has been the most effective.
I replaced the entire Groco 10-gallon tank assembly with a Groco 15-gallon SweetTank. The tank is the same height and depth, and only seven inches longer, so no problem on the fit. And I gained 50% capacity.
More importantly, the SweetTank has a air manifold in the bottom and uses a low-pressure, continuous run air pump (like an aquarium pump) to force air through the tank. This maintains an aerobic environment, instead of anerobic, so NO FOUL SMELL. We have not added any chemical since I switched tanks, and no odor.
Just my approach to the problem.
Brian
After comparing the costs, I took a course of action that was not the least expensive, but has been the most effective.
I replaced the entire Groco 10-gallon tank assembly with a Groco 15-gallon SweetTank. The tank is the same height and depth, and only seven inches longer, so no problem on the fit. And I gained 50% capacity.
More importantly, the SweetTank has a air manifold in the bottom and uses a low-pressure, continuous run air pump (like an aquarium pump) to force air through the tank. This maintains an aerobic environment, instead of anerobic, so NO FOUL SMELL. We have not added any chemical since I switched tanks, and no odor.
Just my approach to the problem.
Brian
Legend
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ocnslr said:
Brian - did you do the install yourself? Do you mind me asking the ball park price? I think there is something on the verge of happening to my 04 Sailfish. It was making a high pitched whistling noise when I put it to bed last November. I did a bunch of fresh water rinses and used head lube but I not holding my breath.
Thanks
Mark
Brian - Where did you purchase this sweet tank and how much did it cost??
Thanks for letting us know!!
Lee
Thanks for letting us know!!
Lee
Legend said:
Yes, I did it all myself. Took a weekend.
On our Islander (no mid-berth), the tank is mounted under the forward part of the bridge deck. You have to unseal, unscrew, and lift the hatch on the bridge deck.
The 15-gal tank has the same width and height as the 10-gal, and is only seven inches longer. It is mounted athwartships and the extra length was no problem. The hold-down straps are longitudinal, and since the tanks were the same height and width there was no problem there either.
All the plumbing and electrical connections were in the same locations so everything targeted up nicely. Had to mount the LP air pump, run the tubing, and run power to it.
Groco tank is ZDS-10-12v for the 10-gal, and ZDS-15-12v for the larger tank.
Some info here: http://www.sopac.co.nz/Portals/1/pdf/plumbing/toilets_sanitation.pdf
This is the access to the area:
This is the old tank:
And the new tank (note - moved aft a couple of inches).
If you look at the time stamps, you will see that the new-tank photo was 2.5 hours after the old-tank photo. So pretty fast and easy to do. Heck, getting the hatch up, then cleaning it for reinstallation, took longer than the tank change.
I purchased the tank from the local Westmarine (Express). They did a price match to a web vendor. Don't recall, but about $800 at the time.
Remember, I did this because our macerator was dead. I gained 50% in capacity, no chemicals, and no odor.
If you have a functioning tank/macerator, then you can add just the "SweetTank" feature with a kit from Groco. I considered that, but the cost for that could go towards an entire new tank assembly.
Brian
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Re: Re:
I installed it to run 24/7, but we are in a slip with shore power 24/7.
If you had to set it up to not run all the time, then the tank would have to be emptied very regularly.
It a very low current draw, so I never worry about it when anchored, or drifting with engines off..
Brian
fishbust said:
I installed it to run 24/7, but we are in a slip with shore power 24/7.
If you had to set it up to not run all the time, then the tank would have to be emptied very regularly.
It a very low current draw, so I never worry about it when anchored, or drifting with engines off..
Brian
This website has it for a little less
http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/8699 ... 7Aodri0Afw
I was/am in the same predicament as you. I do plan to replace it one day but plenty of other things to do before I buy a $400 pump that's designed to fail. For a few years I would have to take the pump out every now and then to free it up but then ultimately it just seized for good (yes very much a dirty job).
My marina charges $10 for pump out but down the canal at the county park launch ramp you can run the pump for 4 quarters. That's what I've done for the last few months. I check the level and pump it out when its yellow. I no longer worry about the pump. There is a thread here somewhere where someone did a mod and used a jabsco macerator. If I remember correctly it wasn't that complicated and quite a bit less expensive.
good luck
http://www.goodboatgear.com/detail/8699 ... 7Aodri0Afw
I was/am in the same predicament as you. I do plan to replace it one day but plenty of other things to do before I buy a $400 pump that's designed to fail. For a few years I would have to take the pump out every now and then to free it up but then ultimately it just seized for good (yes very much a dirty job).
My marina charges $10 for pump out but down the canal at the county park launch ramp you can run the pump for 4 quarters. That's what I've done for the last few months. I check the level and pump it out when its yellow. I no longer worry about the pump. There is a thread here somewhere where someone did a mod and used a jabsco macerator. If I remember correctly it wasn't that complicated and quite a bit less expensive.
good luck
I have a 2003 Marlin with the exact problem. This weekend I took the old pump off, removed the macerator assembly and cut a hole in it's place to allow a 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe to pass through. With some nylon fittings and connectors, I plumbed inline an external macerator that can suction out of the tank. I can now easily and cleanly change out the macerator again if necessary. It will do better not submerged in a salty nasty mess. It cost less than $200 including the macerator.
