Has anyone attempted to repair or work on their Groco 155 Macerator? I've taken mine apart and cleaned it up - not a pretty job - but the motor doesn't spin up to full speed. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated.
Groco Macerator
- Thread starter dmcneane
- Start date
Took mine apart hoping to repair but gave up when I saw the vast number of parts to replace. Bought a new one and keep it exercised with fresh water and head lube on almost every trip.
Took mine apart-messy, looked at it, put it all back together. didnt work at first but magic, it starting working. Will use till it dies and will most likely switch to a different system since groco replacements are costly.
Legend
GreatGrady Captain
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Lubricating oil that you put into the head and hand pump it through the system to keep the head parts and seals lubricated. Add it to the water in the head and pump it through the system. I assume it has lubricating value to the macerator pump as well. Gotta keep the macerator exercised with fresh water often or it will freeze up on you. Expen$$ive to repair or replace. You can get the head lube at West Marine.
Legend
GreatGrady Captain
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Does anyone know if you use head lube with electric models too. So I understand, when you flush the head lube it will lubricate the parts when the tank is emptied or does the maceration take part during the flushing cycle. Unfortunately my boat did not come with any manuals. I am replacing most of them on websites but I can't find the head model to get a Graco manual.
Thanks
Thanks
Had the same problem with my Jabsco, bought a new pump head, nothing was wrong with motor.
You may have an electrical issue that is worth testing for. Disconnect the wires to the motor at the motor and add a digital voltmeter in parallel & reconnect motor. Position the meter so you can see it from the bridge, now operate the pump, how does the voltage look ?
You may have an electrical issue that is worth testing for. Disconnect the wires to the motor at the motor and add a digital voltmeter in parallel & reconnect motor. Position the meter so you can see it from the bridge, now operate the pump, how does the voltage look ?
Over the weekend I placed the macerator in a bucket of water and connected a battery to it. The pump began to work and then abruptly stopped after about 30 seconds. I disconnected the battery and waited a few minutes and reapplied power. This time the macerator barely turned and then stopped once again. I'm at the point of considering a new unit... any thoughts...
Don't know about yours but mine was a PITA to get out. I have no desire to do it again soon, so I purchased a new replacement and "exercise" it religiously with fresh water and lube just to ensure it never freezes up again.
Here is a great post from SilverLining that I found helpful.
Posted: May Tue 20, 2008 12:00 am Post subject:
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Let me take a try at this. My 2000 Sailfish 272 has a GROCO system. The level probe consists of three different length wires with floating float switches on each. The three floats represent Green, Yellow, and Red on the display panel. The panel has a power toggle switch, a pump-out button, and the three lights positioned vertically and a fuse holder. Prior to buying a new panel or pump, try the following:
1. Check fuse( 10 or 20 amp?) A blown fuse usually means that the pump shaft is seized by corrosion, ect.
2. If level indicator lights come on, there is power to the pump.
3. Disconnect pump DC leads and apply 12V from battery or jump battery directly to the pump. If the pump runs, problem is probable switch or wiring.
4. If pump does not run with 12V, remove pump and check that shaft turns freely. If not, place box end wrench on shaft end bolt and move back and forth until smooth. Test pump again with with 12V. I'll bet it operates properly then. I do this work on my work bench, not in the boat.
5. Remember, the overboard pumpout feature does not depend in any way on the float switches or level indications
6. The pumps are very durable and work very well considering the environment the pump lives in.
Hope this helps.
SilverLining
Posted: May Tue 20, 2008 12:00 am Post subject:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Let me take a try at this. My 2000 Sailfish 272 has a GROCO system. The level probe consists of three different length wires with floating float switches on each. The three floats represent Green, Yellow, and Red on the display panel. The panel has a power toggle switch, a pump-out button, and the three lights positioned vertically and a fuse holder. Prior to buying a new panel or pump, try the following:
1. Check fuse( 10 or 20 amp?) A blown fuse usually means that the pump shaft is seized by corrosion, ect.
2. If level indicator lights come on, there is power to the pump.
3. Disconnect pump DC leads and apply 12V from battery or jump battery directly to the pump. If the pump runs, problem is probable switch or wiring.
4. If pump does not run with 12V, remove pump and check that shaft turns freely. If not, place box end wrench on shaft end bolt and move back and forth until smooth. Test pump again with with 12V. I'll bet it operates properly then. I do this work on my work bench, not in the boat.
5. Remember, the overboard pumpout feature does not depend in any way on the float switches or level indications
6. The pumps are very durable and work very well considering the environment the pump lives in.
Hope this helps.
SilverLining