Guest Battery Switch Question

[SkunkBoat]

His third drawing would work that way, but should not be done. You always want the ability to turn off all power to the house without having to manually disconnect a battery. On my other boat I have the same setup as the second drawing and use a deep cycle battery as Batt #2 since it will be discharged when the motor is not running. I switch the house to Batt #2 when over-nighting, or drifting/anchored for any prolonged period.

Yes the House breaker should be a switchable type (like a Bussman CB-185) not a simple reset button or have an ON/Off switch in the circiut.
The point of that setup is that you don't have to switch batteries to charge and you don't have to switch batteries when you are drifting/anchored.
Start is start and House is house. They both always charge. House could be a deep cycle. Also, your House is isolated from the starter voltage drop.


Mine is a little more complicated with 2 motors and 3 battery banks (stb start, port start, and House). In my case I also wanted switches available without opening hatches.
There is a blue seas mini battery switch that is dual ON/OFF under the gunnel that switches the House and Start at the same time. So I can leave the 1-2-Both-Off switch that is inside a hatch under a plastic bin on 1 always. I get on/off the boat, reach under gunnel turn on/off power.

 

[Blaugrana]

I did forget to mention, You should replace the House red button breaker with a switchable breaker ( or put a mini On/Off battery switch). I THINK you already replaced the breaker, right?

Yes, I did with the one from blue sea.

Yes the House breaker should be a switchable type (like a Bussman CB-185) not a simple reset button or have an ON/Off switch in the circiut.
The point of that setup is that you don't have to switch batteries to charge and you don't have to switch batteries when you are drifting/anchored.
Start is start and House is house. They both always charge. House could be a deep cycle. Also, your House is isolated from the starter voltage drop.


Mine is a little more complicated with 2 motors and 3 battery banks (stb start, port start, and House). In my case I also wanted switches available without opening hatches.
There is a blue seas mini battery switch that is dual ON/OFF under the gunnel that switches the House and Start at the same time. So I can leave the 1-2-Both-Off switch that is inside a hatch under a plastic bin on 1 always. I get on/off the boat, reach under gunnel turn on/off power.

Totally, makes sense. I actually was going to do the same mimicking your 3 switch design but with 2. However, I found that dual circuit plus switch for just a little more than a simple on/ off switch. Going to rig it how you said.

I really hope that mystery cable is an Aux charge as I’m getting sick of constantly opening the hatch to switch. Half the time I forget to switch, especially on short drifts when I want to get the lines in ASAP.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Ok, but I think the approach would solve my problem once I replace my switch.

Assuming that cable is an Aux charger, I can get the blue sea dual circuit plus battery switch only and it will allow me to have two isolated circuits running at the same time.

Thanks for the feedback and all the effort.

I suppose you could get rid of the 1-2-both-off switch and use just a dual circiut plus 5511e. You would still be able to use the combine position in an emergency BUT you would lose the ability to start on JUST the #2 battery



Since you already have an existing 1-2-both-off switch, you could add the blue seas 5511e (or "mini" M-series 6011) like in this diagram below and mount it in such a manner that it is easliy accessible.(you will need more wire)

 

[Blaugrana]

I suppose you could get rid of the 1-2-both-off switch and use just a dual circiut plus 5511e. You would still be able to use the combine position in an emergency BUT you would lose the ability to start on JUST the #2 battery

View attachment 16061

Since you already have an existing 1-2-both-off switch, you could add the blue seas 5511e (or "mini" M-series 6011) like in this diagram below and mount it in such a manner that it is easliy accessible.(you will need more wire)

View attachment 16062

Thanks! That’s the switch I just bought. Right now, starting on battery 2 would be annoying as my GPS would keep turning off due to the voltage drop. I’ll def keep my Guest switch as it looks in good condition and can always add into the circuit if I want to have the option to start on battery 2.

BTW - What gauge wire should be from my battery to the switch? Seems like mine and GlacierBaze have the same size. The wire from switch to engine seems thicker than from battery to switch. Assume thedistance plays a role here but I can’t see the run from battery 2 to the switch being that much shorter than from the switch to the engine.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Thanks! That’s the switch I just bought. Right now, starting on battery 2 would be annoying as my GPS would keep turning off due to the voltage drop. I’ll def keep my Guest switch as it looks in good condition and can always add into the circuit if I want to have the option to start on battery 2.

BTW - What gauge wire should be from my battery to the switch? Seems like mine and GlacierBaze have the same size. The wire from switch to engine seems thicker than from battery to switch. Assume thedistance plays a role here but I can’t see the run from battery 2 to the switch being that much shorter than from the switch to the engine.

Without knowing lengths I would say match whatever is currently going from the Start battery to the 1 on the existing switch... if in doubt then 2 gauge.
I assume both batteries and switches are near the transom not opposite ends of the boat.

Any wire that might conceivably carry Starter current (based on any switch combination) needs to be that size.

 

[Blaugrana]

So the mystery cable turned out to be my auxiliary cable, which was good news.

I was able to install the Blue Sea System switch 5511e with ease...

However, I noticed that with the switch in the off position, I can put my key in and turn to the on position, which results in my gauges having power but nothing else (didn’t want to try starting the engine). I hooked the Aux cable and battery two to the same stud. Should I put the aux cable and electronics on the same stud? Or is that ok?

 

[wspitler]

I don't have a good understanding of your overall circuit design without a circuit diagram, but make sure you can't power your gauges when all the switches off.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Electrically, discounting the length of the wire, its all the same point but I would put the Aux directly on the Battery #2 stud
(my preference is to connect unswitched things to the battery stud so I can get at them and see them and not have to remove the switch and twist it around...)

Looking at the picture;
left side is Battery 1 & Battery 2(with Aux, and 2 bilge pumps)
right side is (1) Motor start cable and (2) House feed wire (to the breaker)

That works.

You still have the 1/2/both/off switch in the circiut or no? Its on position 1?
The new switch is between the old switch and the motor?

New switch is off? You have gauges when key on?
Gauges power from the motor not the House.

My zukes seem to have backup power to feed gauge which warns me of "Low battery voltage" when the switches are off.
IDK about your motors. My ox66s did not do that.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Check voltage on all 4 of those switch terminals.
Should be on left side not on right.(of your picture)

If you have 12v all around, disconnect Aux and see what happens.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Hmmmm.... If you still have the old switch in there then the Battery1 should go to the #1 on the old switch and a wire from "Feed" to the new switch (1 left side)

 

[Blaugrana]

here is my (chicken scratch) diagram...My new switch might be the issue as it is now working (no power to key in off position)

Also, I took out my old switch for now and might change slightly in off season. I am going to take it for a test ride, although I am worried the switch might be defective and Ican’t just assume the off position is truly off (contact issue?)

 

[SkunkBoat]

That looks good.
Gotta be sure the switch has seated in position. Also, make sure the "pointer" points to the right thing.

 

[Blaugrana]

Thanks everyone for your help. The switch worked like a charm and it was a little awkward to turn off the engine and not run to the hatch to flip the switch while we were drifting tonight.

Also, Surprised how quickly the engine turned over with this new switch and the minimal voltage drop. Let’s see how this goes before I am fully confident in it but tonight definitely made me a believer.


Crazy how such simple changes make a difference.