Hello looking for advice,photo on how to mount a windless on a 87 gulfstreem any recomdations on type of anchor rollers etc Would the anchor hatch have to be changed?Looking at thr lewmar pro fish windlass thanks JD
Gulfstreem /windlass How to
- Thread starter rustuy bolts
- Start date
Windlass install
I dont have photos handy now, but go back through all the old posts here. There are several good ones on this subject with photos and various ideas. I just bought an 89 Gulfstream and will be doing the same thing come spring, and thats where I got all my info from. This is a great site for any questions you have. I got more ideas on what I want to do to my boat that I didn't know I wanted to do until I started reading old posts, and thought "Hey thats a good idea". Anyhow, good luck.
I dont have photos handy now, but go back through all the old posts here. There are several good ones on this subject with photos and various ideas. I just bought an 89 Gulfstream and will be doing the same thing come spring, and thats where I got all my info from. This is a great site for any questions you have. I got more ideas on what I want to do to my boat that I didn't know I wanted to do until I started reading old posts, and thought "Hey thats a good idea". Anyhow, good luck.
On both of your boats, if Grady offered an optional windlass when new - you can find this out in the owners manual at the Grady White website, they may have also prewired for a windlass - anyway (like on my 252G). This will save you plenty on the power feed.
You will have to get your head under there and look up and around to see any red and black heavy gauge wires, if so, they probably wind up at the stern by the batteries.
At the stern you add a breaker, at the bow you add a reversing contactor (solenoid), at the bridge a 1pdt three position up/down switch with center return, wire that to the solenoid. If the Lewmar has the contactor, no need to use another one.
Presto!
You will have to get your head under there and look up and around to see any red and black heavy gauge wires, if so, they probably wind up at the stern by the batteries.
At the stern you add a breaker, at the bow you add a reversing contactor (solenoid), at the bridge a 1pdt three position up/down switch with center return, wire that to the solenoid. If the Lewmar has the contactor, no need to use another one.
Presto!
This guy installed a windlass on his Seafarer. To see how he did it, click on the following link and scroll to the bottom of the page.
http://www.doctorbee.com/Fishing/boat.htm
http://www.doctorbee.com/Fishing/boat.htm
Thanks guys, I do have all of the original manual and paper work that came with the boat when new so I'll see if the wiring is already in the boat.The photo's in the link is a very good idea.I was thinking that grady may sell a split hatch to mount the windlass.Any more ideas would be appreciated :lol:
Rustuy bolts, I just recently finished installing a Lewmar free fall on my Sailfish and did just as above but I used a piece of 3/4" Starboard in Seafoam and made a replica of the anchor locker lid instead. The factory installation is to far forward in my boat in my opinion, for best performance the rode should fall into the deepest part of the locker. Through bolt the lid where you can and it looks like original equipment and you haven't messed up the original lid if you want to change it back.
Good luck with it,Ron
Good luck with it,Ron
rénovator
Hello That is
a good idea, would You have a photo ? I agree with mounting the windlass back by the locker.I have seen others gradys with the windlass mounted foward of the locker. thanks John
Hello That is
a good idea, would You have a photo ? I agree with mounting the windlass back by the locker.I have seen others gradys with the windlass mounted foward of the locker. thanks JohnSure, see the following pics
A tip, Be sure to place the rocker switch in a comfortable position as you will be standing with one hand at the wheel and the other hand/fingers will have constant pressure on the switch to activate it. It will take a little bit of time to recover several hundred feet of rode. The prior owner of my boat placed the switch a little to low and I have to lean to one side and it can be a bit of a pain at times, to me the perfect place would have been off to the side of the wheel next to the AP. I may move it one day and cover the existing holes with a plate or something.
Good luck with it.
A tip, Be sure to place the rocker switch in a comfortable position as you will be standing with one hand at the wheel and the other hand/fingers will have constant pressure on the switch to activate it. It will take a little bit of time to recover several hundred feet of rode. The prior owner of my boat placed the switch a little to low and I have to lean to one side and it can be a bit of a pain at times, to me the perfect place would have been off to the side of the wheel next to the AP. I may move it one day and cover the existing holes with a plate or something.
Good luck with it.
Renovator:
Nice install. If you move the switch, cover the hole w/ a 1/4" black Starboard to match what you take out.
Nice install. If you move the switch, cover the hole w/ a 1/4" black Starboard to match what you take out.
Renovator :lol: very nice job.i will do the same. Did you cut the hole in the pulpit instead of using the end roller, if so any reason?
very nice job.i will do the same. Did you cut the hole in the pulpit instead of using the end roller, if so any reason?Bow pulpit is factory, I just covered up the hole where the previous windlass was installed. I installed a pivoting roller boom on my prior Shamrock and it was truly "self launching", I would think the roller would do just fine. With my current set up I do have to get someone to push anchor out but no biggie.