Has anyone done a glass front, like what the 330 Express has, on a 228?

[DennisG01]

If it scratches is it possible to buff it out? And is this the same stuff that they make center console windshields out of?

I believe you are right that is very similar to CC windscreens, but obviously a lot thinner. It is NOT flexible like your existing "clear vinyl" - although it is not super stiff like a sheet of plexiglass. Makrolon is a brand, although possibly the most widely known. They put some type of extra coating on it. Yes, light scratches can buffed out - I would suggest reserching it some more and even talking with a local shop that you might use to make it for you.

Just for transparency sake (see what I did there!), I have never personally owned this stuff. I have experience with it through friends and such, but have never owned it myself.

 

[Hookup1]

Makrolon is made in several grades/thicknesses. It is bendable and sewable but can't be rolled up tight. I use the 0.040" material. It has some treatment for UV and scratch resistance. Like vinyl (Stratoglass) it will last a few years longer if you take care of it. My advice is to do a front panel and keep your old sides. I would not go for the crazy expensive polycarbonate - keep it simple and plan to replace it after a while. Nothing lasts forever - even polycarbonate. I buy my material from Trivantage.

My price:
Makrolon VR .040 x 52" x 110" $132.51
Makrolon AR .060 x 48" x 96". $301.48
Makrolon Marine 5 .060 x 50" x 110" $680.69

 

[PointedRose]

Could talk to these guys

Welcome to Off The Hook Boatworks - custom cabs, railings and more -

offthehookboatworks.com

 

[UCPA111]

I too find the windshield height to be annoying on my 1984 seafarer. I sketched up a tall one (figuring I would go a few inches away from tube frame at top and fill in gap with vinyl) and had these guys quote me making one. It was a couple years ago and less than $3000. I wanted glass, with glass sides that tapered up like existing. They can do side vents or no side vents.

https://oceandynamics.com/​

 

[luckydude]

I too find the windshield height to be annoying on my 1984 seafarer. I sketched up a tall one (figuring I would go a few inches away from tube frame at top and fill in gap with vinyl) and had these guys quote me making one. It was a couple years ago and less than $3000. I wanted glass, with glass sides that tapered up like existing. They can do side vents or no side vents.

https://oceandynamics.com/​

View attachment 27826

So did you get rid of the horizontal tube entirely? That's not structural, right?

Personally, I'm fine with the sides the way they came from the factory on my boat.

http://mcvoy.com/lm/boat/2022-01-02-08.53.05.jpg

I was thinking glass all the way to the top, but you are right, you don't really need it, move the glass up 8 inches and I think you are good.
My problem is that they molded the glass on mine, getting something that matches that is gonna be hard.

 

[glacierbaze]

Hold a straight edge on the outside of the windshield, in different spots from corner to corner, and I think you will be surprised how far it intrudes into the helm area, especially if it went to the top.
If I were going to do it, I still like my idea in the other thread, to remove the complete windshield and sides, and raise it straight up XX inches, by building an insert below it. A vertical "wall" would match both mounting surfaces, the whole thing would go straight up, instead of back, and it would preserve some element of the original look.
AND, it could possibly be built to be reversible, if it didn't meet expectations. Any of the alterations discussed so far will require removing everything as a starting point, so why not start by blocking it up and seeing what it's like.
Someone who is good with graphic arts could take a photo of your boat, and alter it to give you a good rendering of what it would look like.

 

[luckydude]

Hold a straight edge on the outside of the windshield, in different spots from corner to corner, and I think you will be surprised how far it intrudes into the helm area, especially if it went to the top.
If I were going to do it, I still like my idea in the other thread, to remove the complete windshield and sides, and raise it straight up XX inches, by building an insert below it. A vertical "wall" would match both mounting surfaces, the whole thing would go straight up, instead of back, and it would preserve some element of the original look.
AND, it could possibly be built to be reversible, if it didn't meet expectations. Any of the alterations discussed so far will require removing everything as a starting point, so why not start by blocking it up and seeing what it's like.
Someone who is good with graphic arts could take a photo of your boat, and alter it to give you a good rendering of what it would look like.

I missed this suggestion. I'm going to think on it, I have to go out and look but I bet you are right, losing window at the bottom might not matter at all.

Thanks for the push, it's a good thought.

 

[UCPA111]

So did you get rid of the horizontal tube entirely? That's not structural, right?

Personally, I'm fine with the sides the way they came from the factory on my boat.

http://mcvoy.com/lm/boat/2022-01-02-08.53.05.jpg

I was thinking glass all the way to the top, but you are right, you don't really need it, move the glass up 8 inches and I think you are good.
My problem is that they molded the glass on mine, getting something that matches that is gonna be hard.

I was going to leave the existing tubing in place for the hardtop frame and design so I had unobstructed view through windshield.

 

[DoctorOctopus]

No, not really "fragile" - it depends on how you are qualifying that term. It's excellent stuff and lasts quite a long time. But with something scraping against it, it can get scratches like anything plastic would. If you're talking about trailering with it, it might be best to avoid putting something on it that would flap against it.

They make bulletproof glass out of polycarbonate. However it can be scratched by anything harder. It is hard to scratch and if you buy Makrolon AR (abrasion resistance) it is almost impossible to scratch (ie wiper blades) and what you would use . Polycarbonate cannot be buffed out. Scratches cannot be fixed.
Acrylic can be buffed do out but it is easier to scratch In The first place and no way you could have wipers.

 

[Fishtales]

I'd be checking around for a different boat with the desired features and lessons learned from my experiences to this point if it were me.

 

[luckydude]

I'd be checking around for a different boat with the desired features and lessons learned from my experiences to this point if it were me.

I'm committed to my 228. Yeah, it's a smaller boat, but it is big enough for the right days on the ocean. I can trailer it and that is important to me (I'm on a 1.5 mile single lane twisty road, the trailer for the Fisherman 236 was too big for my road).

I suspect this is the last boat I'll own. Never say never, but it suits me.

So that leaves me tweaking it to get it perfect.

All that said, what boat would you suggest?

 

[tomcosta]

I'm going through my 228 and fixing it to being to my liking. The 2 things that annoy me the most are the noisy live well pump, have a replacement in hand that is silent, just need to install it. And that stupid bar at the top of the windscreen, precisely where I want to look.

I know Joe Celia pulled his hard top and replaced it with a pilot house. That's cool but I've got 2 radios, a 942xs, power distribution, 2 antennas, steadycast, and radar on my hard top. That's a lot to move.

So I want to look into replacing the existing windshield and eisenglass with a custom fitted glass windshield.

Figured I'd ask here first to see if someone has beat me too it.

I haven't done this before but if the windshield is to low and a replacement is unrealistic try raising the windshield assembly. Maybe you could fabricate an aluminum bar that would raise the windshield to where the top frame is above your eyesight.