Hatch mold

[blindmullet]

I know some of you like this kinda stuff. My son and I have been working on a project together. We are building some hatches and gutter molds currently. I'll try to throw some pics in as we go. This will be a 3/4" hatch with 1/2" honeycomb. Hinges and slam latch recessed.
-1.5oz csm
-1708
-1.5oz csm
-honeycomb
-1708
-1.5oz csm

It's curing now. Will take some pics out of the mold tomorrow.

 

[blindmullet]

I let my son do most of the layup as I mixed for him. He didn't do to bad, but had a few air pockets around the hardware. Not a big deal and already fixed. I don't use gelcoat on one off mold as I paint my rebuilds. Building the receiver mold next.

 

[Hookup1]

I blowup my anchor rode locker hatch this winter. Going to build a model from the old one and make a mold.

What did you use for mold materials? What do you use for a release agent of the model? I've done some hatch repairs and vacuum bagging but never built a mold.

 

[blindmullet]

I blowup my anchor rode locker hatch this winter. Going to build a model from the old one and make a mold.

What did you use for mold materials? What do you use for a release agent of the model? I've done some hatch repairs and vacuum bagging but never built a mold.

If I was going to pull a gelcoat part it would have been much different as you are making a final product. Since I'm painting I didn't spend a lot of time on the mold.

If you only have to make the hatch cover and you want gelcoat I would do it one of two ways.

Option 1:
Melamine sheet - you really don't even need to wax it, but I always do. I don't even use a partial paste and just go with a standard auto wax. If you add any recessed pieces like you see in mine those should get a heavy coat as the wood will soak up the poly/expoxy. You could also use PVA if your worried. It can be applied with a spray gun or even a preval sprayer. You really don't need to with melamine unless its old and banged up.

Take non-air curing modeling clay and push it in all your corners to make a radius. I use a tongue depressor or a bead to remove the excess. The bead in my pic was something I grabbed from my daughter and ran a drywall screw into it.

Add your non-waxed gelcoat 2-3 coats and let it setup.
1.5oz CSM
1708
Either 1.5CSM or putty and add core on top
1708
1.5 CSM

Cut the excess glass while its in the mold. If you screwed the mold together correctly you should be able to just take it apart. Since it's a one off its very easy to remove.

Option 2:
MDF Mold - you really need to seal up the MDF or it makes a mess. Not a big deal if you are painting the part, but if you want something close to a finished the mold will need to be coated. My receiver will be done this way and I'll try to take more pics. I'll be covering it with Epoxy bilge paint-----because I have some. You could use gelcoat or any epoxy paint. I would use wax and PVA on a MDF.

If you don't need a mold with routed edges I would go with melamine. It works much better as the lamentation won't stick. I build everything with epoxy except for parts.

 

[Hookup1]

Thanks! When you say "I build everything with epoxy except for parts." what do you mean?

 

[blindmullet]

Thanks! When you say "I build everything with epoxy except for parts." what do you mean?

I pretty much use 3:1 Fiberglass Coatings epoxy for any fiberglass work. I'm rebuilding a 17' Mako right now with my 17 year old son. I live in a HOA and garage and epoxy is a lot easier on everyone around me. I like to use laminating polyester on parts because it's a bit easier to wet out and I can stop without having to sand the next day.

Here is a rough version of the hatch receiver gutters. Still have to fill screws, route the edges, clay, wax and pva.

 

[blindmullet]

Made this from a MDF mold. This was probably the most complex. I actually used epoxy because I had to get down inside the mold. I made this about 10 years ago.

 

[Hookup1]

Wow! That's really nice. I'm patching the old hatch up and will make a mold from it. It will be all epoxy with a full Coosa board core. I'll put some pictures up.

 

[blindmullet]

Wow! That's really nice. I'm patching the old hatch up and will make a mold from it. It will be all epoxy with a full Coosa board core. I'll put some pictures up.

Are you pulling the mold from the existing part or making a mold?

 

[Hookup1]

Are you pulling the mold from the existing part or making a mold?

I'm going to make the mold off the existing part. I'm repairing the old part now.

 

[blindmullet]

PXL_20210722_233659312.jpg

• blindmullet
• Jul 22, 2021

Got the receiver all prepped and glassed. A little trick I learned from an old timer is to cover your part with a little plastic instead of using wax or PVA for a full tack free cure. It also helps that you can work the corners with your fingers once the plastic is down. Pop it out tomorrow and clean it up.

 

[seasick]

There are a few good videos on BoatworksToday.com detailing the process of making a new hatch. Andy is quite the pro when it comes to fiberglass work.
This is the making of the new hatch

There is another later video on making the mold.

You can spend days watching his videos.

 

[SteveGw306]

Hi Can you create a baitwell hatch cover that would be same as that shown in photos for 306 canyon 2011? How much do you estimate cost to be? Thanks Steve

 

[pmgia]

I am not doing the work myself but this is a photo my glass shop sent.

 

[blindmullet]

Hi Can you create a baitwell hatch cover that would be same as that shown in photos for 306 canyon 2011? How much do you estimate cost to be? Thanks Steve

It's really just the labor. There is probably only $50 in materials to make a lid with polyester. I see guys selling the hatch and receiver for $250-$350. Just the lid I would think around $150.

Popped the receiver out and made another lid yesterday. I'll try to take some pics.

 

[SteveGw306]

It's really just the labor. There is probably only $50 in materials to make a lid with polyester. I see guys selling the hatch and receiver for $250-$350. Just the lid I would think around $150.

Popped the receiver out and made another lid yesterday. I'll try to take some pics.

 

[SteveGw306]

Still cant find hatch and receiver that comes close to one on 2011 bait well. Can you recommend?

 

[Pfu]

Got to thinking the other day are the lids some what similar/same over models? Cars have many similar parts and wondered about trying to be to specific on a boat year and model. I need two covers for live well and storage behind driver and curious of options. Apologies as not trying to take over topic just wondering how GW models compare.

Nice work. Could be a decent side job for someone!

 

[Hookup1]

Are you pulling the mold from the existing part or making a mold?

BLINDMULLET - I'm starting on my hatch project. I'll document it here...

I blew up my anchor locker hatch earlier this year. The hatch for the rear port compartment was badly damaged and chipping off in large chunk too. I put them back together with bondo and some primer so they could be used as "plugs". Cosmetically they look good but structurally they won't make it. I'm planning on painting the final part so the plug finish isn't perfect. Plugs mounted on melamine board. Plugs waxed and sprayed with PVA release agent (green coating). New molds that need to be cleaned up.

 

[Hookup1]

Layed up the anchor locker hatch. Full core of 1/2" Coosa board. Drilled out and filled some voids and rough sanded the part. Next step is to make holes for the windlass. Then coat with fairing compound and finish the topside.