I have a 1998 grady white voyager with a single outboard. I recently removed the infamous corroded aluminum cap on the transom I also removed the rub rail and resealed the seam with 5200 and reinstalled rub rail. When I did that I noticed my transom was wet. I did drill a few 1/4" holes in the transom with recomendations from Bert at Grady White and water drained out. I began to dry out the transom until the next rain storm and I noticed water draining from transom again. During that rainstorm I had the outboard and the transom covered with a tarp and it is still getting wet. I sprayed on all the deck drains and deck plates and can not find where the water is entering. Can anyone help me out??
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HELP! Wet transom Help!! Please!!!!
- Thread starter jms311
- Start date
Re: Wet transom Help!!
Depending on how deep the water gets, you can eliminate possible leak spots.
5200 is am adhesive and not exactly a sealant. Something like Boatlife caulk would be better but I wouldn't seal anything yet.
Check you scupper fittings and hoses for leaks but again that just lets water into the bilge. That water still needs a path into the transom.
The fact that water 'pours' out is also not a good sign. If you push an awl or small screw driver into one of the test holes and feel mush, the core is rotten.
Unless the outer skin has delaminated which in extreme can be determined by tapping with a soft hammer the only way to determine how much of the core is wet (other than drilling a lot of holes) is by using a moister meter (by someone who knows how to interpret the readings).
So do the first steps above and see what you find.
My first question would be, " Does water enter the bilge?" For example, when it rains how much water gets to the bilge. If none, then it is hard to say where the water comes from but if it is enough to trigger the bilge pump while leaving a bit behind, then water is probably entering at a low spot and the more common place for that is the inside opening for the garboard drain (plug).jms311 said:I forgot to mention this occurs while boat is on trailer. I also tested engine holes.
Depending on how deep the water gets, you can eliminate possible leak spots.
5200 is am adhesive and not exactly a sealant. Something like Boatlife caulk would be better but I wouldn't seal anything yet.
Check you scupper fittings and hoses for leaks but again that just lets water into the bilge. That water still needs a path into the transom.
The fact that water 'pours' out is also not a good sign. If you push an awl or small screw driver into one of the test holes and feel mush, the core is rotten.
Unless the outer skin has delaminated which in extreme can be determined by tapping with a soft hammer the only way to determine how much of the core is wet (other than drilling a lot of holes) is by using a moister meter (by someone who knows how to interpret the readings).
So do the first steps above and see what you find.
VeroWing
GreatGrady Captain
Re: Wet transom Help!!
If I am understanding you correctly, you drilled several 1/4" holes in lower outer transom and drained, and now after a rainstorm more water is draining from these drilled holes. If this is correct, and boat is on trailer during all this, I would suspect the scupper areas, the angle molding, or water from bilge entering from inside. When you resealed angle molding, did you remove outboard and seal underneath molding in that area? Last week I replaced the brass scupper tube in one of my four scuppers because it showed signs of not being sealed. It was a good move because there was dampness in the scupper hole area, but thankfully, no core damage. I also coat any screws going into boat with a little 4200 to make sure hole is sealed.
If I am understanding you correctly, you drilled several 1/4" holes in lower outer transom and drained, and now after a rainstorm more water is draining from these drilled holes. If this is correct, and boat is on trailer during all this, I would suspect the scupper areas, the angle molding, or water from bilge entering from inside. When you resealed angle molding, did you remove outboard and seal underneath molding in that area? Last week I replaced the brass scupper tube in one of my four scuppers because it showed signs of not being sealed. It was a good move because there was dampness in the scupper hole area, but thankfully, no core damage. I also coat any screws going into boat with a little 4200 to make sure hole is sealed.
VeroWing
GreatGrady Captain
Re: Wet transom Help!!
Is the bilge plug removed from boat, or is there a possibility that water is getting into bilge and entering transom core from inside. Is there a removable plate to get a look at interior transom around bilge area?
Is the bilge plug removed from boat, or is there a possibility that water is getting into bilge and entering transom core from inside. Is there a removable plate to get a look at interior transom around bilge area?
Re: Wet transom Help!!
Last night there was a storm and I checked bilge this morning. Bilge had a tiny bit of water in it. Approx 4-6oz. It wasn't even enough to make its way to drain. The voyager has a step up transom so drain is approx 18"below transom. And approx 24" forward of transom
Last night there was a storm and I checked bilge this morning. Bilge had a tiny bit of water in it. Approx 4-6oz. It wasn't even enough to make its way to drain. The voyager has a step up transom so drain is approx 18"below transom. And approx 24" forward of transom
Harpoon
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Re: Wet transom Help!! Please!!!!
I suspect you will need to re-core your transom. Cutoff outer skin, cut out old plywood and glass new plywood, or other core and replace outer skin. There are numerous projects like this documented on THT and Classic Mako.
Is there any foam on that model that could be accumulating rainwater ?
I suspect you will need to re-core your transom. Cutoff outer skin, cut out old plywood and glass new plywood, or other core and replace outer skin. There are numerous projects like this documented on THT and Classic Mako.
Is there any foam on that model that could be accumulating rainwater ?
VeroWing
GreatGrady Captain
Re: Wet transom Help!! Please!!!!
I think you are at a point where you will have to use a water hose and an extra set of eyes to find how water is still entering your transom core.
I think you are at a point where you will have to use a water hose and an extra set of eyes to find how water is still entering your transom core.
family affair
Well-Known Member
Re: Wet transom Help!! Please!!!!
You mentioned having the tarp over the transom, but is it covering the entire rear of the boat? You don't have too many places for water to enter unless your 98 is different than our 99. I suspect the water is coming throughout the brass tubes you replaced.
The tubes on ours were cracked. We sealed them but haven't replaced them yet. Piss-poor way to seal up such a vital part of a boat IMO. We haven't drilled to see if we had any water intrusion since we discovered it 2 years ago.
Grady started using rot resistant wood in 98. That transom also has a lot of structural aluminum in it also. Are you seeing flex in the transom, or is replacing it just being pro-active?
You mentioned having the tarp over the transom, but is it covering the entire rear of the boat? You don't have too many places for water to enter unless your 98 is different than our 99. I suspect the water is coming throughout the brass tubes you replaced.
The tubes on ours were cracked. We sealed them but haven't replaced them yet. Piss-poor way to seal up such a vital part of a boat IMO. We haven't drilled to see if we had any water intrusion since we discovered it 2 years ago.
Grady started using rot resistant wood in 98. That transom also has a lot of structural aluminum in it also. Are you seeing flex in the transom, or is replacing it just being pro-active?
Re: Wet transom Help!! Please!!!!
I used 5200 to glue the brass drains in place. I have the back of the boat covered with the tarp forward to but not including the deck floor drains. There is no flex in the transom but I am just being proactive
I used 5200 to glue the brass drains in place. I have the back of the boat covered with the tarp forward to but not including the deck floor drains. There is no flex in the transom but I am just being proactive
Re: Wet transom Help!! Please!!!!
I spoke to Joe the vp of sales at Grady white on Friday. He wants me to send some pictures and he assured me they will help me figure this out. I already taken the boat to two Grady dealers with no positive outcome and I also spend the money to have the boat survey twice since it was found and they were no help so hopefully the big dogs at Grady will help me out
I spoke to Joe the vp of sales at Grady white on Friday. He wants me to send some pictures and he assured me they will help me figure this out. I already taken the boat to two Grady dealers with no positive outcome and I also spend the money to have the boat survey twice since it was found and they were no help so hopefully the big dogs at Grady will help me out
sfc2113
GreatGrady Captain
I hope Grady will help you out, imo they should honor some kind of reimbursement if you have to get this replaced. Its always due to that stupid alum cap. And those brass tubes. When I ripped mu outer skin off I was able to see exactly were if failed, just look for the black areas of the wood. Those transom cap should have been fully sealed from the factory, not sure if you planning on doing this yourself but if you do make sure you drill into the stingers to make sure they are dry.