Help - white smoke

[Fishtales]

Any updates? Hopefully just a first tank of the new year issue and it clears itself up.

 

[imjus4u2nv]

Any updates? Hopefully just a first tank of the new year issue and it clears itself up.

Still smokes like crazy on start up, after that it seems to be fine. I just put some fresh gas in last trip, and swapped out with new plugs - yet to start but will take out this week. I used the gap I found on the inside of the cowling instead of the gap in my Clymer repair manual (1.0mm which is slightly bigger gap in manual).
I also checked the linkage, all looks good except the linkage does seem to rub on carb has hose a little not sure of this is binding up the oil lever at low idle - hard to see but see pictire.
I have also noticed some type of grayish color coming from bottom of cowling area that I dont recall seeing - anyone know what this is?
Since just a little smoke not too concerned, just slowly trying to figure out what is going on.

 

[Fishtales]

tough to tell where on the cowling that is. I guess monitor and see how it goes. good luck...

 

[imjus4u2nv]

UPDATE - Engine will no longer start unless I use the manual choke at the engine, starts right up and dont even need to throttle up (soimd best ever when I start this way).
Great and odd thing is no smoke when I start this way (havent pulled plugs in a while because it's been running fine except the smoke cloud at startup). Thinkong I may have bad choke solenoid (when I push key in I hear it click but from some research looks like I need to somehow check the choke plates - anyone know how to do this or have other suggestions would be glad to hear from you. Not sure if bad solenoid would contribute to smoke (maybe flooding engine)?
Thanks always.

 

[seasick]

Eh, was gonna throw in my 2 cents, but these guys seem to have it all under wraps. spark plugs are the best indicator of an issue, imo... sandpaper and a feeler gauge and cleaning them up, then monitoring them can tell you if you have an issue in one or more cylinders. Helps tell you if it is one issue or the entire engine. Also, since you have them off, Harbor Freight has an inexpensive compression tester.. I mean.. may as well at that point.

Burning fuel is an indicator... even in an old engine, and not a huge deal, since you clearly are on top of it... heh.. I bet it will be easy peasy to get those running better and cleaner.

R

I don't like using sandpaper since it is possible that grit will rub off get deposited in the plug base. That grit will eventually end up in the combustion chamber and can cause cylinder wall scratching.
The plugs for that motor are relatively inexpensive. If you think they are an issue, replace them but I don't think they are the problem, they are just a symptom.
It would help to compare all the plugs to each other, and kept in order to identify what cylinder they came from.

Knowing that wet plugs are limited to one or two cylinders as opposed to all or all on one bank can tell a lot.
For example, one bad thermostats will have more of an effect on the plugs in that bank.
Two fouled plugs next to each other can indicate a blown head gasket ( or worse).
Too much oil or two rich a mixture will affect all plugs.
A bad/clogged O2 sensor will cause a rich mixture especially at low revs. That will affect all plugs.
A single fouled plug can mean several things, one that is often overlooked is a bad ignition coil or plug wire. Usually but not always, this condition will affect performance under load or low speed rough idling. The same symptoms can occur with a bad, dirty, stuck, injector.
So,, are all plugs oily? If so, are you sure it is oil and not too much unburnt gas?

 

[RussGW270]

I don't like using sandpaper since it is possible that grit will rub off get deposited in the plug base. That grit will eventually end up in the combustion chamber and can cause cylinder wall scratching.
The plugs for that motor are relatively inexpensive. If you think they are an issue, replace them but I don't think they are the problem, they are just a symptom.
It would help to compare all the plugs to each other, and kept in order to identify what cylinder they came from.

Knowing that wet plugs are limited to one or two cylinders as opposed to all or all on one bank can tell a lot.
For example, one bad thermostats will have more of an effect on the plugs in that bank.
Two fouled plugs next to each other can indicate a blown head gasket ( or worse).
Too much oil or two rich a mixture will affect all plugs.
A bad/clogged O2 sensor will cause a rich mixture especially at low revs. That will affect all plugs.
A single fouled plug can mean several things, one that is often overlooked is a bad ignition coil or plug wire. Usually but not always, this condition will affect performance under load or low speed rough idling. The same symptoms can occur with a bad, dirty, stuck, injector.
So,, are all plugs oily? If so, are you sure it is oil and not too much unburnt gas?

Agreed, I guess I am used to the sandpaper method heh.. and, subconsciously, tend to make sure they are cleaned before they go back in. It helps to take my wife's nice wedding napkins and.. oh..nm.. I did not say that..


lol

R

 

[seasick]

My lips are sealed

 

[imjus4u2nv]

My lips are sealed

I will pull the plugs again (have swapped them out once, but havent pulled since then since smoke was only on start up, and now using the manual choke smoke is gone (engine runs mint otherwise).
Anyone any input on checking the choke on the key/ignition, since starts with no smoke using manual think the issue mat be with choke?

 

[seasick]

If the smoke is white, I don't think so. If the smoke is darker or blueish, it could be a too rich mixture. I don't understand what you are saying about the choke. On the saltwater series ( fuel injected), the 'choke' position on the ignition does nothing. The engine computer adjusts the mixture based on engine temp, air temp etc.
I think you may be worrying about nothing. If the engine runs fine after warm up, the initial smoke was probably due to the fuel treatment. In addition, those motors will often smoke when first started.
Keep an eye on it but I don't think you need to do anything at this time

 

[imjus4u2nv]

If the smoke is white, I don't think so. If the smoke is darker or blueish, it could be a too rich mixture. I don't understand what you are saying about the choke. On the saltwater series ( fuel injected), the 'choke' position on the ignition does nothing. The engine computer adjusts the mixture based on engine temp, air temp etc.
I think you may be worrying about nothing. If the engine runs fine after warm up, the initial smoke was probably due to the fuel treatment. In addition, those motors will often smoke when first started.
Keep an eye on it but I don't think you need to do anything at this time

My engine has carbs (not fuel injected) and smoke not an issue anymor. Issue now is cant start engine unless I use the manual choke (the pull choke on the engine).

 

[imjus4u2nv]

My engine has carbs (not fuel injected) and smoke not an issue anymor. Issue now is cant start engine unless I use the manual choke (the pull choke on the engine).

I found a resistance test for the fuel enrichment valve in manual and will test that.

 

[seasick]

OK, I didn't realize motor was carbed. Yes you are looking in the right direction

 

[imjus4u2nv]

So I checked the fuel enrichment valve and was in specs, but had a loose wire/bad connection so wasn't engaging choke from the helm when I pressed the key in. Fixed that, boat start right up from the helm and smoke is gone.
Not sure if related, but think since choke wasnt working I was flooding the engine (throttling up in neutral) to start as that was how previous owner always started it - no need that for that now, just turn and push in key and starts right up.
Thanks for all that stayed with me on this post, will see if the smoke returns.
Best regards - J