Help with partial re-wire

[Pete1313]

So, here are two pictures from my new Grady 248 (1997) - one is from under the helm console and the other is from inside the electronics box.

I want to replace the old glass fuse panel with something new, and organize the wires. I also want to add a bigger bus bar.

What is a good suggestion for a replacement fuse panel?

I obviously need to replace some wires here eventually, and secure the bus bar (I'll put in a new one).....but need advice on where to start.

 

[Parthery]

Blue Seas makes a decent panel in 8 or 12 fuses...uses standard square fuses. I'd start there.

The key is to stick with the wiring schematic that GW uses (which follows ABYC guidelines) and take your time when making connections.

 

[Pete1313]

Yes, I like their stuff...including their battery switches....which I'm going to upgrade to-- they charge both house and start regardless of what your switch is on......

I'll post pics as she gets cleaned up!

 

[bc282]

ditto the blue sea fuse block
i'm actually replacing a similar block under my console with the following:

http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/products/5026

i found i'm maxed out with 10 "things" connected to the block and the primary wires feeding the block are now too light for what i've got plugged into it so the 5026 gives me a couple extra spots for future expansion.

i'd recommend http://shop.genuinedealz.com/ for both wire, connectors and the fuse block (they don't have the 5026 listed, but i'm sure they can get it).

you should also consider as i am replacing the primary/battery cable that feeds the block. I think mine is 10 gauge and will be bumping it up to a 6 gauge wire.

I've used the blue sea fuse blocks in my other boats and last season i replaced the block in the overhead elec box with a smaller blue sea fuse block. I'm very happy with their stuff to say the least.

 

[little jenny]

partial rewire

i have found that when you are doing a rewire job it is sometimes better to remove all the electronics and start fresh. it sounds like alot of work but you can be sure that all your connections will be corrosin free and you will get the best peformance from your electronics if they were installed incoorectly the first time.

 

[Pete1313]

Well, I'll be flush mounting new electronics and moving the Furuno radar....I'll also be flush mounting the guages on starboard, so I'll have to remove all those and make sure the connections are good.

What I don't want to do right now is pull new wire through the entire boat...just yet....hopefully the switch panel and breakers are fine....

 

[ksgoldman]

As an FYI I can see in your original pictures that some of your connectors and crimps (like the blue butt connector) are not marine grade. I know it seems crazy to spend $.50 to $1.00 for a connector or crimp but trust me that it's better to do it right the first time than to have your GPS go dead in the middle of a trip because of a poor connection. You need to make sure that all of your crimps and connectors are marine grade adhesive filled heat shrink crimp connectors like what you can purchase at West, Jamestown Distributors, or Sailor Solutions (http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.a ... Electrical). Also, purchase a proper crimper for marine terminals (not the standard one you buy at Home Depot or Lowes). A marine crimper is made for the heat shrink style crimps and has a wider crimping die. Anchor makes a good one but I bought one that was recommended from Sailor Solutions (http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.a ... Item=WP042) that was about half the price and was recommended at another website. Also make sure to use marine grade wiring (tinned copper) not just automotive wiring.

This is definitely one of those situations where doing it right pays off many times over.

 

[Pete1313]

Thanks for the advice. I'm actually going to have a marine electrician help me out to make sure I've got everything set up....I agree, the extra expense now is worth the security of having good connections and no failures when I'm in bad weather and water is dripping down there.

 

[conshykid]

Pete1313....take a look at my thread
http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtop ... highlight=

This might help you to see what I did . Im very experienced at wiring and IMO this is the best way to rewire a grady.If you need help with anything or ideas or even where to get everything at the best prices pm me Id be more than happy to help someone out.

I also have brand new fuse panels and other components that I used that was for another boat but never got around to do it and if they might work for you pm me and I can sell you what I have....let me know.....Anthony

 

[Pete1313]

Wow - that is a great job. Can I hire you

 

[Pete1313]

Can you explain how that BEP cluster works? I will have a single engine main, with a 9.9 kicker (12 amp alternator output at WOT) and want to set up a dedicated house battery and dedicated starter. I want to ensure my starter battery is always charged first.....

I know that BEP and BlueSeas does similar charging relay units...but I'm confused on the difference between the following products - can you help me understand?

http://bluesea.com/category/1/productline/overview/329

BEP:

http://www.bepmarine.com/Single-Engine% ... -1460.html

And your BEP unit:

http://www.bepmarine.com/Dual-Battery-C ... -1464.html

Thanks!

 

[conshykid]

Pete.. both the Blue Seas and BEP systems do basicly the exact same thing.B.S calls their relay an "ACR" and BEP calls theirs a "VSR" they both will charge both batteries and isolate them when voltage from one batt. drops to a certian voltage.The cluster has a seperate switch for each batt. plus a parallel switch,where as the B.S you would use a single switch like the one that comes with that kit in that link you posted.The difference between the two BEP links you have there is found at the bottom of that link for the first BEP Switch which says:
"Please note:
With this system the electronic loads are run off the same battery as the engine starting, which can be a disadvantage."

This switch&VSR is used with 2 batteries but both house and starting are run from that same battery the second batt. is just a back up and you arent really having an isolated system house & starting.The cluster isolates house from starting.

 

[Pete1313]

My marine electrician is going to use the Blue Seas system - he's going to wire the electronics directly to the house as well as the kicker, and going to wire the main to the starter....when the main is running, it will use the ACR and charge the start and then the house....kicker will charge the house and then the start...but the start will always be charged fully. The only time they will parallel is if I switch to "both" - otherwise I can fully run the house down to 0 and the start will be at a full charge.

that's how I understand it at least!