house battery charging

[SkunkBoat]

You read it as open or just not zero ohms? Wire does not "pass voltage" it passes current and if any current is flowing you will read some voltage
The best way to test a corroded wire is to jump it with a good wire....

fyi, my aux cables had been extended and had crimped butt connectors covered by a rubber sleeve.

I don't have my Seloc manual since I sold the motors so I don't want to talk out my ass without backup...but...

I beleive the diodes for the aux are built into the Rectifier/Regulator. In theory, difference between the charging voltage on the starting cable and the aux cable is .6 or .7 v ( the drop across a diode). Except you have a battery connected and cables and switches...

Based on your reading listed above I suspect that your stbd motor is not charging anything. I would want to rule out easy things.
I would measure the stator coil. Disconnect the green plug to the regulator and measure ohms across the 3 pins. Compare to other motor.
They should be low ohms, none should be open.

Without a manual I would not presume to tell you how to test the regulator for spec voltage out at spec rpm.

I'm not sure about your port motor. When you revved the motor did the 10v rise up to 14v?

 

[dogdoc]

the block is definitely fuses, high amp60-80 I do not remember. I pulled and checked all 4, 2 each aux 2 each main. When fuses were pulled and fuse holder pulled from plastic block was when I checked continuity. there were no diodes i could find along the wires. As far as I could tell it was nothing but wire I was checking My engine/battery cables travel unbroken from the engine thru the rigging tubes thru the bilge to the battery compartment. I can find no sign of a fuse anywhere. I do agree that the alternator is generating sufficient power to maintain the starting batteries and am encouraged by that. The reason for aux problems seems to be multiple and I am loathe to go down that route, but seems like I may have a combination of regulator and wire problems. Which has got me thinking that I may go down the same road I have on other problems on this boat and by pass the problem completely. Things I am considering are..

Adding a 4th battery and setting up 2 banks of 2 each charged by a primary wire and use a 1-2-both battery switch to direct power to the house loads on a rotating basis. We use the boat for fishing or running almost 100 percent, no longer anchorages playing the boom box.

Adding an acr or acr's to charge and isolate batteries

any advice appreciated

 

[dogdoc]

both engines showed good voltage and rpm response at all points on main charge/start wire
stand corrected on pass voltage, i expected to see direct short on meter, 0 ohms. I got high R and probably low I, giving some V

 

[SkunkBoat]

I would adivse against just blowing it off and rewiring to the starter cables. It might bite you.
You should figure out what is going on.

I'm not convinced that your stbd motor is charging your start battery. 8 or 9 volts at the fuse is too low with a running engine.
You said you are using a charger between using the boat. Then you only used the battery for starting.
Idk if you might be running the switches on Both or reversed 1/2 at some point and charging that battery from the other motor.

So...You might be inadvertently hiding a symptom. I chased it around when I got my boat.

If you have one open coil of the three on the stator you will have low charging volts but it is masked by the fully charged battery.

The aux charging is the start charging but with a diode to prevent the motor from drawing current from the aux battery.
Absent a cable/connection issue, It is unlikely that the start cable charging is good and aux is bad.

At the very least, compare ohm readings of the stator between the motors.
You could also compare readings of the Rectifier/Regulator.

If you do keep using the aux you do need some switch arrangement that will let you run House on the start batteries in an emergency.

this is my config (well, I still have not added the +12v red bus bar so the Aux go directly to the House Batt A pos terminal right now)
This config worked on my OX66s and still works on my Zuke DF200s

 

[Hookup1]

the block is definitely fuses, high amp60-80 I do not remember. I pulled and checked all 4, 2 each aux 2 each main. When fuses were pulled and fuse holder pulled from plastic block was when I checked continuity. there were no diodes i could find along the wires. As far as I could tell it was nothing but wire I was checking My engine/battery cables travel unbroken from the engine thru the rigging tubes thru the bilge to the battery compartment. I can find no sign of a fuse anywhere. I do agree that the alternator is generating sufficient power to maintain the starting batteries and am encouraged by that. The reason for aux problems seems to be multiple and I am loathe to go down that route, but seems like I may have a combination of regulator and wire problems. Which has got me thinking that I may go down the same road I have on other problems on this boat and by pass the problem completely. Things I am considering are..

Adding a 4th battery and setting up 2 banks of 2 each charged by a primary wire and use a 1-2-both battery switch to direct power to the house loads on a rotating basis. We use the boat for fishing or running almost 100 percent, no longer anchorages playing the boom box.

Adding an acr or acr's to charge and isolate batteries

any advice appreciated

I am heavy on my house power consumption. I run two bait pumps, refrigerator and electronics on all day. Bait pumps and refrigerator run all night at the dock. Bow thruster and windlass used intermittently. I don't have a generator so my F150's are never shut off during the day. Each engine charges its starting battery and one hose battery thru aux charging cable. ProMarinerHD 3-bank charger and NOCO single bank charger while on the dock. It's taken me several years to get to this configuration but it works well - no more low battery voltage warnings on the water.

I think you are close to a solution. The ACR isolator is redundant. Spend the money to fix your regulators. Not sure if they are repairable. And don't put both aux charging cables on the same battery. If you really want to go the ACR route go for it!

If it were my boat I would buy one voltage regulator (preferably new but eBay is ok too if you feel lucky), install it, hook only one aux charger lead to house battery. That should fix it but if not its the fuse block, cable or connectors. And as SkunkBoat said check the stator/coil.

If you want to install a fourth battery (I did on my 268 Islander) go ahead. In the Marlin you may have enough room for 4 batteries in the back. Fix the other engine aux charging problem (probably another regulator) and use this engine to charge it. You need a 4-bank battery charger or add a 1-bank charger. My fourth is with AGM battery in compartment under v-bunk with my bow thruster and wired to windlass to keep wire runs short. Add a on/off switch.

Change out the house battery switch. Install a 1/2/off switch connected to the house lead and to each house battery.

 

[dogdoc]

got curious so put boat in water and hooked up voltmeter to starting bats. Initially both about 12.9, then started engines

starboard went up to 13.6 then over about 10 min settled at 13.1
port went to 13.9 and stayed at 13.9-14
both batteries were at 13 volts when engines shut down

does this indicate charging function is occurring on starting wires, I think so

 

[Hookup1]

First of all I assume the shore power charger was disconnected. Looks to me that both alternators are charging.

 

[SkunkBoat]

It would appear so ...if you don't have any switches that are combining

Your previous Aux volts measurements don't make sense

You measured pos lead to the fuses and neg lead to where? One fuse is on the start cable, one is on the Aux cable.
So do you have +13ish volts on one fuse and +9ish volts on the other(with neg of meter connected to neg of stbd start battery)?

That would mean the isolator diode inside the regulator (or its wiring and connector to the fuse) is dropping 5v when it should drop 0.7v.
It would have to be cooked.
..or it means the stbd start neg is not connected to the house neg properly (there is some difference of potential between them for some reason..wire, connection...)
or wherever your meter neg connection was made was not at the same "ground" potential as the stbd battery

something is not right.

 

[dogdoc]

got the seloc manual today and will start reading tonight

 

[dogdoc]

In addition to the seloc manual I did get a fourth battery. For now until time to take boat out of commission for awhile (we have had the best water and bait combo since feb, I cannot miss it) I will run 2 banks of 2 bats in parallel. The port bank feeds a 1-2-both switch which feeds the house circuit. The aux leads are insulated and secured. Charging has been closely monitored and perfect. While it has only been about 15hrs run time, but does this indicated regulator/rectifier issue more than stator issue?

 

[Seafarer_Bob]

Does this problem occur when you're running or trolling? Many alternators barely produce enough Amps to run the engine when operating at idle speed. Running a GPS and misc accessories while trolling and you're probably running at a deficit when trolling.

 

[SkunkBoat]

In addition to the seloc manual I did get a fourth battery. For now until time to take boat out of commission for awhile (we have had the best water and bait combo since feb, I cannot miss it) I will run 2 banks of 2 bats in parallel. The port bank feeds a 1-2-both switch which feeds the house circuit. The aux leads are insulated and secured. Charging has been closely monitored and perfect. While it has only been about 15hrs run time, but does this indicated regulator/rectifier issue more than stator issue?

I'm not sure how you have the port switch wired so I can't comment.
I'm not sure how your batteries were configured before you added a battery and paralleled them
I'm confused by the readings you took at the fuseholder for the aux and starter cables.
In my line of work this is where phone support usually ends and a Field Engineer goes out...

When you get the chance, use the manual and check the ohms of the stators on both motors. Its fairly simple and rules out something quickly.
Check the charging output per the procedure in the manual

 

[Hookup1]

If your engine batteries are charging then your engine charging system is working. The motors use a significant amount of power to run the injectors and the computer. If they don't stall after a few hours you are making power.

I'm not sure what we are fixing at this point. Also not sure what changed. Is it possible that the house battery was cooked and adding a 4th battery in parallel "fixed it"?

 

[ttles714]

Look for rotted aux charging wires .... as previously stated mine were also rotted in the middle of the rigging tube

 

[NHAngler]

Voltage regulator bad? Cables at the regulator also possibly suspect?

I had a similar issue, went to replace the regulator that intermittently worked and there was a loose wire that was grounding out. I have a spare regulator now.

 

[dogdoc]

Sorry for the poorly written post. Glad others read better than I write. To clarify, I currently have a 4 battery system with 2 pairs of 2 bats in parallel. Each bank is connected to a 1-2-both switch. Currently starboard is 1, port 2. The positive terminal of each bank (at the battery not switch) is connected to a 1-2-both switch, starboard pos 1, port pos 2. The feed from this switch supplies the 50 amp house breaker in the bilge. Currently port 2 is the house supply. The aux wires are not in use. The main start/charge wire from each engine is charging the banks as expected over the last 3 offshore runs. I do place the house switch in the off position when starting engines as there is no ignition protection in use. Is this overkill to turn off house switch? Thank you Skunk for the polite hint I may be in over my head, the Yamaha mechanic who makes house calls has been called.

 

[wspitler]

Your diagram shows batteries in series, not parallel, 24V system! Connecting a battery positive to the other negative yields 24V, not 12V. Be careful! If it is similar to my 2007 330, the starboard battery switch supplies the house and starboard engine, either number one bank or number two bank depending on switch position. The port switch supplies the port engine and the generator starting capability. Think of switches and not battery banks. The starboard switch, if like my OEM configuration, should be thought of as hot wired to the house. Switches supply busses, batteries connect to switches.

 

[dogdoc]

My bad drawing is incorrect wiring in boat is. Not sure why I cant seem to post correctly the first time!