I have twin 200 HPDIs on my 252. In the last 5 months, I've only run the boat at low rpms on a hose (live in FL). The last time I had the boat out, the engines did fine. This past weekend, engines ran fine at idle and low rpms. When I tried to get on plane, one engine stopped responding to throttle advance above 2500 rpm, i.e., going to WOT did not result in an increase above about 2500 rpm. The engine did not choke, die, sputter, or may any unusual noise, just no high rpms. I took the engine out of gear and the rpms increased with throttle increase just fine - above 4600 rpm. I did not want to chance it going higher since I didn't know what the problem was. Did this several times. Got the boat on plane - mostly with the good engine- and ran for a few minutes. Moved the throttle back and forth, but the problem engine never got above 2500 rpm. No alarms. I use non-alcohol gas and ring-free. The fuel filters are clean, new fuel hoses and tanks. The engines were bought used. I did not change out the low or high speed pumps, internal screens, & so forth. I will probably have a mechanic look at it next week. But would like to hear if anyone else has had similar issues. Thanks.
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HPDI Issue
- Thread starter rmajor
- Start date
Desperado
Well-Known Member
Sounds like an O2 sensor. Follow the instructions on the link below.
http://www.boatsetup.com/O2sensor.pdf
http://www.boatsetup.com/O2sensor.pdf
richie rich
Well-Known Member
Desperado, does the O2 sensor not give some type of alarm if it's going bad, ie, like on your car? It's obvious its a critical component for a properly running engine.
Desperado
Well-Known Member
No it does not (wish it did). I ended up buying the Yamaha diagnostic software and connector. I pulled the sensor and cleaned it with carb cleaner, checked it with an ohm meter, and put it back in. Running fine ever since. It is actually fairly easy to do.
Gmanoffshore
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It sounds to me like that engine is in fail safe mode due to a code being set off in the computer. Check you horns and maybe have a tech run a download to see if any codes are being set off/overheat/low oil/water in fuel/ etc.
Some of these are easy to check yourself,water in the clear fuel filter on the motor can be an easy one to check.
Some of these are easy to check yourself,water in the clear fuel filter on the motor can be an easy one to check.
RJTFD
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a dirty vapor seperator filter. Did you check that also there is a stainless filter right before vst that gets changed also. I had same problem and it would happen only when I got up on plane. Go onto shipyard island marine website and ask Andy. You can go thru the hull truth .
Good Luck
Good Luck
vst tank and filter, drain the VST tank and see if you have any water or junk in the tank drain it in a jar or bowl. Next open the vst tank and look at the yellow filter annd see if its clogged or has any white power on it. Replace the filter. You might need a new o-ring as well it goes around the top of the vst tank for a seal. Yamaha 200 HPDI,s been there done that.
Desperado
Well-Known Member
Good call guys, I forgot about the VST. You have 2 filters and a strainer under the cowel of an HPDI. Good time to change them out if you have not already. The strainer is in the VST tank.
FYI, I have 3 200hp HPDIs. I had trouble with one and fought for over a month to get it to run right. After changing all filters, plugs, cleaning the VST & O2 sensor, PLUS draining my entire fuel tank it finally ran right. Long story short E10 and long term storage do not mix well. It was a hard (and expensive) lesson learned.
FYI, I have 3 200hp HPDIs. I had trouble with one and fought for over a month to get it to run right. After changing all filters, plugs, cleaning the VST & O2 sensor, PLUS draining my entire fuel tank it finally ran right. Long story short E10 and long term storage do not mix well. It was a hard (and expensive) lesson learned.
As for long term storage and E-10 --- DRAIN YOUR TANKS COMPLETELY.
You'll just have to pay to dispose of the fule anyway after about 6 months. I'm a firm beliver in E-10- Sta-Bil but I've already been thru that war!
You'll just have to pay to dispose of the fule anyway after about 6 months. I'm a firm beliver in E-10- Sta-Bil but I've already been thru that war!
BobP
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The VST filter needs changing, have to change regularly if not.
A DIyer job, can reuse O ring, but buy one just in case.
There is a metal can filter above VST tank, I do that one every other year.
Went to 2 micron RACORs this year, lets see how VST filters looks end of season.
Clean O2 sensor by taking off housing too, and exhaust tube within it, just need at least one gasket under housing.
A DIyer job, can reuse O ring, but buy one just in case.
There is a metal can filter above VST tank, I do that one every other year.
Went to 2 micron RACORs this year, lets see how VST filters looks end of season.
Clean O2 sensor by taking off housing too, and exhaust tube within it, just need at least one gasket under housing.
Tucker
GreatGrady Captain
I too went with a 2-micron filter. Problem is if you have the 10-micron Yami filter you need to order the racor bowl separately. The 2-micron racor does not come with a bowl. I also have a spare element on board. Now since the VST HP pump screen is a 2-micron & the injectors have 2-micron screens in them; in theory you should never have to open the VST again. Well see...
BobP
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Depending on what he has now -
The 2 micron racor fit my original setup, a stainless steel Tempo (I recall) head and 10 micron filter for the mercury / sierra filter that I had originally, then since used the racor 10 micron replacement with clear bowl.
The 2 micron racor fits the stainless head and clear bowl exactly same as 10 micron. Since it has the "UL" in the part number it was destined for the metal bowl by spec, but is identical and fits the plastic bowl.
The 2 micron racor fit my original setup, a stainless steel Tempo (I recall) head and 10 micron filter for the mercury / sierra filter that I had originally, then since used the racor 10 micron replacement with clear bowl.
The 2 micron racor fits the stainless head and clear bowl exactly same as 10 micron. Since it has the "UL" in the part number it was destined for the metal bowl by spec, but is identical and fits the plastic bowl.
BobP
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Tucker
GreatGrady Captain
I'm kind of half expecting problems with the 2-micron filter. Not sure the LP fuel pumps have enough ass to pull the fuel through the filters when they start to load up; that's why I'm carring a spare. Yami recommends a 10-micron only. If it works though, this should eliminate having to take off the VST.
O2 sensor
Thanks for all the great input. Turned out to be the O2 sensor and the tube. Cleaned them both. Also had fouled plugs on that engine only with only 10 hours of use. But... I put these plugs in after using an additive to help clean out carbon build up. This may be the carbon and junk still coming out of the engine. I am going to clean the other engine's O2 sensor and tube also.
Thanks again.
Thanks for all the great input. Turned out to be the O2 sensor and the tube. Cleaned them both. Also had fouled plugs on that engine only with only 10 hours of use. But... I put these plugs in after using an additive to help clean out carbon build up. This may be the carbon and junk still coming out of the engine. I am going to clean the other engine's O2 sensor and tube also.
Thanks again.