I bought a new 205 Tournament

Gw 190

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Love the boat have about 14 hours on it. The only thing at wot I only can get 5600 rpms with the F150. Boat has bottom paint and is almost full of gas. Do you think I am splitting hairs or should change the prop? The prop 13.75 x 17 black steel. I was just wondering if anyone has change the stock prop and to what.

Thanks

Greg
 

ocnslr

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Congrats on the new 205.

If the bottom paint is clean and not a rough surface, then you may need to work this prop issue a bit.

If you are only getting 5600RPM with the engine trimmed up, then you are overpropped and that is not good for the long-term health of the engine. Have you tried trimming up to where the prop starts ventilating, then trim back down until it is getting a good bite? That is the place to see what your WOT RPM really is.

If still at 5600, then you need to drop pitch a little, but I am still a bit skeptical, as the performance test on the Grady web site with that boat and engine uses the same prop and hits 6,000-RPM.

If this is a new boat, what does the dealer say about the 5600RPM at WOT?

Brian
 

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I'm a little surprised that the motor did not come with a stainless prop. My 225w/ F250TXR hit 6000 RPM with the factory prop with no problem. I do not have bottom paint but I had a full fuel tank (96 gal), no water, and two people. I agree w/ Brian about checking with your dealer. You may also give Yamaha a call in Kennesaw and ask them. I've always found them to be very knowledgeable and willing to help.
 

Gw 190

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Were I dock we have to pull every 2 week and be out for 5 days. I clean the bottom every time. I did call Yamaha and they said I am in the range the lower range. I also called Grady and they that the was the best prop found in their testing. The prop is stainless but painted black. I was thinking about it and I did it ever time with Bimini top open. I didn't give it thought about closing the top and put the top down. I am pretty sure that this it. My first boat 1984 190 tournament with 05 OptiMax 150 loved the motor it was rocket on that boat. I am starting to love the Yamaha now the more time i have on it.

Thanks Guys
 

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Fun new boat!!

I run a 15x15 aluminum. It's great out of the hole, at 4200 I see 26, at WOT about 5700 and 37-38mph, if we're light and no windage.

I tried a Reliance in the stock pitch, (they're 14-1/4X17) got about one more mph at all levels. Wasn't worth the $600, at least not to me.

I found a stainless 15x15 NOS prop from a yamaha dealer that worked just the same as the aluminum, but it chattered quite a bit at idle in gear. So I sold it and bought another new aluminum in 15x15 and carry the old one as a spare.

From what I've studied on props, larger diameter will give you a little more bite. I never cavitate, and it seems to work fine for pulling a skier and climbing waves. I'll happily give up a mile or two on the top end for a better hole-shot.

BTW, the F150 comes stock with a black aluminum. The black stainless is recommended by Yamaha for a less-cost stainless, next is the Reliance. They do not recommend the SWSII for the 150. I think there's too much cup in them.

Since I always carry a spare, I'm not afraid to run the aluminum. And it eliminates the chatter in gear, that is freakin' annoying. Can't be any good for the gear set either.
 

Gw 190

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Thanks CJBrown. I am pretty sure that is black stainless. When talked to Grady I thought he said it was a painted stainless on there. The prop has 17M on it. When you say chattered are saying motor vibration? Do you think the top has something to do with the low rpms(5600). I ran the @ wot and trimmed up until the rpms stopped going up. Did you get the chatter with Reliance?

Thanks

Greg
 

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I have a F150 on my 208 with the SS 17M prop (dealer installed) and have never been able to get more than 5300 rpm's. I'm not sure if I should change props or not. WOT at ~5200 rpms = 38mph.

I have considered switching to a 4-blade.
 

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Greg, it probably is a black stainless. They are fairly common and a good prop. Certainly stronger than an aluminum. The down side to a harder prop is there is a greater risk to damage to the engine itself instead of the prop if you hit something. But they will take running through the mud or sand without damage. If you're prone to run aground, they'll hold up better. I think the guys that frequent shallow water or beach their boats are at greater risk. In the past two years I've touch the bottom a couple of times. The SS doesn't even take notice, the aluminum gets scratched.

All stainless props (on my F150) develop a chatter in the lower gears when in forward or reverse at 600rpms (idle). The cure is to bump the throttle to 800 or so and it goes away. I found it extremely annoying, every time I pull up to a dock the think was chattering away. I have not written Andy at SIM about it, I know they've run into it before. Its been discussed ad-infinitem on THT with all of the yamaha four strokes. I think its worse on the smaller motor though, not as common on the 200-250's.

Joe, the reduced rpms at wide open are due to too much prop. Yamaha recommends 5500-6000 for their four strokes. If you're running the 13-3/4X17 that Grady tested the boat with, you may need to drop to a 15 or 16 pitch prop. Like I say, the 15x15 (it's actually 15-1/4X15) works exceedingly well, and pulls the boat up on a plane quicker. I also run a PERMATRIM and that seems to really help a lot as well. But I doubt you'll get any more speed. That seems to be about it for the F150 on these hulls.

I run the trim right at about 3 on the trim guage, only enough right bow trim-tab to level the boat. With no top up and half fuel, I can hit about 38.5 mph. Running the trim up more does nothing, down cuts the rpm and speed.

I have heard the Mercury Revolution four in the 14x16 or 17 is the ideal prop for the F150, however I was never able to put my hands on one to try it out. I studied the prop thing to death when I first got the boat hoping to get my cruise closer to 30 and top speed closer to 40. Was not able to do that so I gave up. If I want to run 30 I just bump up to 45-4700rpms, that gets it there. I also read that a four blade will drop top speed some for a better hole shot, and that they are most popular for very high speed boats, in particular, bass boats with big motors. The four blade bites better for them and gives them a higher top speed. I dunno, I doubt they're going to do those things for the deep-v and heavy Grady's.

There are other propenents for the other Merc performance props, Enertia, is one of their new ones. Might be worth a shot.

I finally decided the F150 on a 205/208 hull is just only going to do so much. The only real solution for more speed is more horsepower. I looked at pulling the yam and putting a zuki 175 or an etec 175 or 200. But the cost for a few miles an hour just didn't seem worth it. I made quite a few trips to the Colorado River lakes when we first got 'er, and there you can get some speed work in on flat water. But most of our boating has been in the ocean over the last two years and we never run at top speed or any where near it anyway. The guys that are purporting more power are running heavy, or running in calm waters. Then yeah, a 200 or 225 is going to be the ticket.

I'd be happy to ship either of you my spare prop (15x15 aluminum) if you want to pay for the cost to ship. Try it out and send it back, order yourself a new one if you like it - they run about $100. Shipping for an aluminum prop is pretty cheap, like $10 UPS ground. Let me know...I can pick up a prop box and send it out. It's very lightly scratched but still straight. I put the new one on and carry the old one in the very forward bown comparment under the bunk.

BTW, I carry a spare thrust washer, nut, and pin, just in case I need to put that spare on and happen to drop a part while hanging off the swim step :roll:
 

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CJBROWN said:
Joe, the reduced rpms at wide open are due to too much prop. Yamaha recommends 5500-6000 for their four strokes. If you're running the 13-3/4X17 that Grady tested the boat with, you may need to drop to a 15 or 16 pitch prop. Like I say, the 15x15 (it's actually 15-1/4X15) works exceedingly well, and pulls the boat up on a plane quicker. I also run a PERMATRIM and that seems to really help a lot as well. But I doubt you'll get any more speed. That seems to be about it for the F150 on these hulls.

I run the trim right at about 3 on the trim guage, only enough right bow trim-tab to level the boat. With no top up and half fuel, I can hit about 38.5 mph. Running the trim up more does nothing, down cuts the rpm and speed.

I have heard the Mercury Revolution four in the 14x16 or 17 is the ideal prop for the F150, however I was never able to put my hands on one to try it out. I studied the prop thing to death when I first got the boat hoping to get my cruise closer to 30 and top speed closer to 40. Was not able to do that so I gave up. If I want to run 30 I just bump up to 45-4700rpms, that gets it there. I also read that a four blade will drop top speed some for a better hole shot, and that they are most popular for very high speed boats, in particular, bass boats with big motors. The four blade bites better for them and gives them a higher top speed. I dunno, I doubt they're going to do those things for the deep-v and heavy Grady's.

There are other propenents for the other Merc performance props, Enertia, is one of their new ones. Might be worth a shot.

I finally decided the F150 on a 205/208 hull is just only going to do so much. The only real solution for more speed is more horsepower. I looked at pulling the yam and putting a zuki 175 or an etec 175 or 200. But the cost for a few miles an hour just didn't seem worth it. I made quite a few trips to the Colorado River lakes when we first got 'er, and there you can get some speed work in on flat water. But most of our boating has been in the ocean over the last two years and we never run at top speed or any where near it anyway. The guys that are purporting more power are running heavy, or running in calm waters. Then yeah, a 200 or 225 is going to be the ticket.

I'd be happy to ship either of you my spare prop (15x15 aluminum) if you want to pay for the cost to ship. Try it out and send it back, order yourself a new one if you like it - they run about $100. Shipping for an aluminum prop is pretty cheap, like $10 UPS ground. Let me know...I can pick up a prop box and send it out. It's very lightly scratched but still straight. I put the new one on and carry the old one in the very forward bown comparment under the bunk.

BTW, I carry a spare thrust washer, nut, and pin, just in case I need to put that spare on and happen to drop a part while hanging off the swim step :roll:

Thanks for the input Chris. I actually have a new aluminum prop (spare) but never thought about trying it to see what diference it would make in rpm's..duh!

Until recently I was considering moving up to a bigger boat but with fuel prices the way they are that's not happening.

A friend of mine has a Hydrasport 20 WA w/150 HPDI and he switched to a 4-blade. He has been very happy with it so I talked to the local prop shop guy and he recommended a 16 pitch 4-blade for my boat. Cost ~$450.00

I haven't made up my mind yet.
 

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Thanks for the input Chris. I actually have a new aluminum prop (spare) but never thought about trying it to see what diference it would make in rpm's..duh!

Until recently I was considering moving up to a bigger boat but with fuel prices the way they are that's not happening.

A friend of mine has a Hydrasport 20 WA w/150 HPDI and he switched to a 4-blade. He has been very happy with it so I talked to the local prop shop guy and he recommended a 16 pitch 4-blade for my boat. Cost ~$450.00

I haven't made up my mind yet.

If it's a REV-4 it might be worth trying. I'm under the impression the two motors will interchange props. Ask him if you can borrow it for a sea trial. But yeah, $450 for a mile or two is a chunk of dough. Andy wanted about $600 for the Reliance. He sent it out for trial, I shipped it back. Nice prop, but not worth it to me.

We keep talking about putting the 208 up for sale too, get a used Islander or Sailfish. I'd be happy with twin 200hpdi's. There are some real bargains out there. But it's a big step, not only in fuel costs, but moorage instead of dry storage, and a boat payment too. The 208 is nice and new and all fit out, costs pennies to run....it's hard to walk away from. I wince every time I think of twin outboards, or a couple of V8's in an Albemarle or Tiarra. I think twin 454's in a Tiarra is out of the question - fuel burn is like 25 gph on them. Oh well.

Post us on your results with the props if you think of it. I would love to hear of a magic bullet!
 

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CJBROWN said:
Greg, it probably is a black stainless. They are fairly common and a good prop. Certainly stronger than an aluminum. The down side to a harder prop is there is a greater risk to damage to the engine itself instead of the prop if you hit something. But they will take running through the mud or sand without damage. If you're prone to run aground, they'll hold up better. I think the guys that frequent shallow water or beach their boats are at greater risk. In the past two years I've touch the bottom a couple of times. The SS doesn't even take notice, the aluminum gets scratched.

All stainless props (on my F150) develop a chatter in the lower gears when in forward or reverse at 600rpms (idle). The cure is to bump the throttle to 800 or so and it goes away. I found it extremely annoying, every time I pull up to a dock the think was chattering away. I have not written Andy at SIM about it, I know they've run into it before. Its been discussed ad-infinitem on THT with all of the yamaha four strokes. I think its worse on the smaller motor though, not as common on the 200-250's.

Joe, the reduced rpms at wide open are due to too much prop. Yamaha recommends 5500-6000 for their four strokes. If you're running the 13-3/4X17 that Grady tested the boat with, you may need to drop to a 15 or 16 pitch prop. Like I say, the 15x15 (it's actually 15-1/4X15) works exceedingly well, and pulls the boat up on a plane quicker. I also run a PERMATRIM and that seems to really help a lot as well. But I doubt you'll get any more speed. That seems to be about it for the F150 on these hulls.

I run the trim right at about 3 on the trim guage, only enough right bow trim-tab to level the boat. With no top up and half fuel, I can hit about 38.5 mph. Running the trim up more does nothing, down cuts the rpm and speed.

I have heard the Mercury Revolution four in the 14x16 or 17 is the ideal prop for the F150, however I was never able to put my hands on one to try it out. I studied the prop thing to death when I first got the boat hoping to get my cruise closer to 30 and top speed closer to 40. Was not able to do that so I gave up. If I want to run 30 I just bump up to 45-4700rpms, that gets it there. I also read that a four blade will drop top speed some for a better hole shot, and that they are most popular for very high speed boats, in particular, bass boats with big motors. The four blade bites better for them and gives them a higher top speed. I dunno, I doubt they're going to do those things for the deep-v and heavy Grady's.

There are other propenents for the other Merc performance props, Enertia, is one of their new ones. Might be worth a shot.

I finally decided the F150 on a 205/208 hull is just only going to do so much. The only real solution for more speed is more horsepower. I looked at pulling the yam and putting a zuki 175 or an etec 175 or 200. But the cost for a few miles an hour just didn't seem worth it. I made quite a few trips to the Colorado River lakes when we first got 'er, and there you can get some speed work in on flat water. But most of our boating has been in the ocean over the last two years and we never run at top speed or any where near it anyway. The guys that are purporting more power are running heavy, or running in calm waters. Then yeah, a 200 or 225 is going to be the ticket.

I'd be happy to ship either of you my spare prop (15x15 aluminum) if you want to pay for the cost to ship. Try it out and send it back, order yourself a new one if you like it - they run about $100. Shipping for an aluminum prop is pretty cheap, like $10 UPS ground. Let me know...I can pick up a prop box and send it out. It's very lightly scratched but still straight. I put the new one on and carry the old one in the very forward bown comparment under the bunk.

BTW, I carry a spare thrust washer, nut, and pin, just in case I need to put that spare on and happen to drop a part while hanging off the swim step :roll:


Thanks but I think I found a place local to let me try a few. I think I will try with Bimini down 1st and see what I what kind of rpms I get. I appreciate your offer. Like you said more horses but to much money.
 

Gw 190

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CJBROWN said:
Greg, it probably is a black stainless. They are fairly common and a good prop. Certainly stronger than an aluminum. The down side to a harder prop is there is a greater risk to damage to the engine itself instead of the prop if you hit something. But they will take running through the mud or sand without damage. If you're prone to run aground, they'll hold up better. I think the guys that frequent shallow water or beach their boats are at greater risk. In the past two years I've touch the bottom a couple of times. The SS doesn't even take notice, the aluminum gets scratched.

All stainless props (on my F150) develop a chatter in the lower gears when in forward or reverse at 600rpms (idle). The cure is to bump the throttle to 800 or so and it goes away. I found it extremely annoying, every time I pull up to a dock the think was chattering away. I have not written Andy at SIM about it, I know they've run into it before. Its been discussed ad-infinitem on THT with all of the yamaha four strokes. I think its worse on the smaller motor though, not as common on the 200-250's.

Joe, the reduced rpms at wide open are due to too much prop. Yamaha recommends 5500-6000 for their four strokes. If you're running the 13-3/4X17 that Grady tested the boat with, you may need to drop to a 15 or 16 pitch prop. Like I say, the 15x15 (it's actually 15-1/4X15) works exceedingly well, and pulls the boat up on a plane quicker. I also run a PERMATRIM and that seems to really help a lot as well. But I doubt you'll get any more speed. That seems to be about it for the F150 on these hulls.

I run the trim right at about 3 on the trim guage, only enough right bow trim-tab to level the boat. With no top up and half fuel, I can hit about 38.5 mph. Running the trim up more does nothing, down cuts the rpm and speed.

I have heard the Mercury Revolution four in the 14x16 or 17 is the ideal prop for the F150, however I was never able to put my hands on one to try it out. I studied the prop thing to death when I first got the boat hoping to get my cruise closer to 30 and top speed closer to 40. Was not able to do that so I gave up. If I want to run 30 I just bump up to 45-4700rpms, that gets it there. I also read that a four blade will drop top speed some for a better hole shot, and that they are most popular for very high speed boats, in particular, bass boats with big motors. The four blade bites better for them and gives them a higher top speed. I dunno, I doubt they're going to do those things for the deep-v and heavy Grady's.

There are other propenents for the other Merc performance props, Enertia, is one of their new ones. Might be worth a shot.

I finally decided the F150 on a 205/208 hull is just only going to do so much. The only real solution for more speed is more horsepower. I looked at pulling the yam and putting a zuki 175 or an etec 175 or 200. But the cost for a few miles an hour just didn't seem worth it. I made quite a few trips to the Colorado River lakes when we first got 'er, and there you can get some speed work in on flat water. But most of our boating has been in the ocean over the last two years and we never run at top speed or any where near it anyway. The guys that are purporting more power are running heavy, or running in calm waters. Then yeah, a 200 or 225 is going to be the ticket.

I'd be happy to ship either of you my spare prop (15x15 aluminum) if you want to pay for the cost to ship. Try it out and send it back, order yourself a new one if you like it - they run about $100. Shipping for an aluminum prop is pretty cheap, like $10 UPS ground. Let me know...I can pick up a prop box and send it out. It's very lightly scratched but still straight. I put the new one on and carry the old one in the very forward bown comparment under the bunk.

BTW, I carry a spare thrust washer, nut, and pin, just in case I need to put that spare on and happen to drop a part while hanging off the swim step :roll:


Thanks but I think I found a place local to let me try a few. I think I will try with Bimini down 1st and see what I what kind of rpms I get. I appreciate your offer. Like you said more horses but to much money. I also have felt that chatter just like you bump up the rpms.