Installing a through hull in my 2006 228 in the bilge area, have to drill a 3 3/4 in hole , my question is im assuming that area is solid fiberglass and use 5200 or 4200 for bedding compound. 5200 is better for under water applications but im worried if I ever have to remove .
installation of Airmar B175HW
- Thread starter wavetamer
- Start date
Yes, it will definitely be solid fiberglass. But it would still be a good idea to slightly chamfer the cut edges and paint the cut edges with epoxy resin.
DO NOT use 5200. It's really not a 'better' bedding compound (regardless of whether it's used below the waterline). It's just a stronger adhesive, which you don't want - and certainly don't need. 4200 will be fine. Personally, I like the BoatLife products and would use LifeCaulk - or if you're on a time constraint, LifeSeal would be great, too.
DO NOT use 5200. It's really not a 'better' bedding compound (regardless of whether it's used below the waterline). It's just a stronger adhesive, which you don't want - and certainly don't need. 4200 will be fine. Personally, I like the BoatLife products and would use LifeCaulk - or if you're on a time constraint, LifeSeal would be great, too.
Take note that Dennis capitalized "DO NOT" in his advice. I feel the same in regard to your intended use. 5200 is a wonderful product in the right application but sealing a through-hull fitting is not one of them.
yes airmar recommends 5200 but im a bit sceptical due to the fact if I ever have to remove, was leaning towards 4200, I will have a look at boatlife products. Just use a good epoxy resin for fiberglass , what about the 2 part epoxy that comes in the syringe like tube you push out and mix, then cover with good marine paint
I've seen that recommendation from some manufacturers from time to time (for 5200). I always get a chuckle out of that. Totally and absolutely the wrong application for 5200. Good on you for questioning it!
I always have plenty of epoxy (usually in gallon jugs!) laying around, so that's what I use. Can you link to the product you're talking about? You'll want liquid, though, not a paste.
There is no reason to paint anything - epoxy is more waterproof than paint. The only reason to paint epoxy is when it's exposed to UV to keep it from yellowing.
I always have plenty of epoxy (usually in gallon jugs!) laying around, so that's what I use. Can you link to the product you're talking about? You'll want liquid, though, not a paste.
There is no reason to paint anything - epoxy is more waterproof than paint. The only reason to paint epoxy is when it's exposed to UV to keep it from yellowing.
I would think... is it as good as a 'real' marine 2-part epoxy (West Systems, for example... but there are plenty of others)? Maybe not. But it is good enough for this application? Absolutely. Many people don't take this extra step at all.
no your right will get the right product for the job, chamfer the edges and have a professional job, no leaks would be a good thing also !!!!
I have seen the West System in small packets - bigger than a ketchup packet, but you get the idea. Basically, a one-time use. I don't know where to buy that, though - I've never bought epoxy in that small of a quantity. If you think you have a use for it, though, buy a larger quantity - it doesn't go bad. Hawk Epoxy is pretty commonly available, as well - less expensive than West.
You could use polyester resin - much less expensive than epoxy.
You could use polyester resin - much less expensive than epoxy.
I like to seal the layup with epoxy or polyester resin and then bed the ducer with 5200. if that transducer dies down the road heat it up and the 5200 will come loose.