Installing a boat table

[quantase]

Planning to install a wood boat table with a removable pedestal side table mount at the bow of a GW235. I know from factory they have a floor mount, but I wanted one that would go on the side so I do not have to walk over a floor mount. Anyone done a side mount before at the bow where the windlass locker is? Anything I should be aware of during install? I would put some aluminum brackets on backside of fiberglass to help with the load where the mount would be screwed to. Thanks.

 

[Coastboater]

This is from an Edgewater 248CX I had. Factory option, so not much help on how it’s installed.

 

[Ky Grady]

Quick Google search is your friend. Look for "side mount table for boat".

 

[quantase]

Thanks Ky. I saw that one. Not sure if the bow fiberglass is thick and sturdy enough for side mount with load. I’m thinking it should, but want to know if anyone had that any issues?

 

[Ky Grady]

Thanks Ky. I saw that one. Not sure if the bow fiberglass is thick and sturdy enough for side mount with load. I’m thinking it should, but want to know if anyone had that any issues?

Gotcha. If you have access behind mounting location you could always put a backer plate on the inside to spread the load.

 

[PointedRose]

Table Leg With Bracket

Catalina Direct, publishers of the Catalina 22 and Catalina 25 Owner's Handbooks and the largest supplier of parts and Lewmar winches for Catalina Yachts in the country

www.catalinadirect.com

this site has brackets too. Can use a pipe cutting tool to shorten the leg to size

https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-30/interior/table-mounting-bracketsc-22-c-25-c-27-c-30/

 

[Hookup1]

Same as my factory table mount…
DALUOBO Removable Table Leg RV Accessories Detachable Height Adjustable Aluminum Alloy 360 Degree Rotation for Yachts RV Motorhome
https://a.co/d/3kPuPlk

 

[DennisG01]

Planning to install a wood boat table with a removable pedestal side table mount at the bow of a GW235. I know from factory they have a floor mount, but I wanted one that would go on the side so I do not have to walk over a floor mount. Anyone done a side mount before at the bow where the windlass locker is? Anything I should be aware of during install? I would put some aluminum brackets on backside of fiberglass to help with the load where the mount would be screwed to. Thanks.

FYI, a floor mount is basically flush - it only sticks up a tiny bit.

If the area where you're mounting is just relatively thin fiberglass, definitely put a back plate on there. I'm not sure what you mean by aluminum "brackets" - but you could use aluminum flat stock - or just a piece of plywood or starboard and thru-bolt it. The main idea is to simply spread the load out - there's any number of ways/materials to do that with.

 

[Bschless]

I would be worried about getting around the table when it is in place. Why don’t you do a flush floor mount? It only sticks up,like 1/2” or so I think

 

[DennisG01]

I would be worried about getting around the table when it is in place. Why don’t you do a flush floor mount? It only sticks up,like 1/2” or so I think

Side mounts are actually easier - there's no pole sticking straight down directly underneath the table.

 

[quantase]

Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, thinking in using a 3/16 flat SS backing plate to help spread the load. I prefer the side mount, similar to want DennisG01 mentioned so that I can have a little more leg room. The table will be flat. Anyone have any ideas on what can be used to decrease cups from sliding? I was also thinking of making little fiddles or buying rubber mats that will increase a little grip for plates/cups. Thoughts?

 

[DennisG01]

Unless you already have it, I'd get aluminum rather than SS simply because it's cheaper and will work just as well. But honestly, an old plastic cutting board (or a new one from the dollar store) will work equally as well.

Just use some large "fender" washers with the plastic if you go that route. You could stack a couple if you wanted to start even larger (diameter) and then work your way down to one with the proper size hole for the size nut/hardware you use.

Rubber grip will be fine. See if you can find UV stable stuff, though. There are also cups out there that are meant for use on boats/sailboats that have a wider bottom.

Another option is to cut holes in the table and drop in some inexpensive -- NOT Grady "brand" -- SS cupholders.

 

[quantase]

I'll check out the rubber grip.

 

[Automated14]

Same as my factory table mount…
DALUOBO Removable Table Leg RV Accessories Detachable Height Adjustable Aluminum Alloy 360 Degree Rotation for Yachts RV Motorhome
https://a.co/d/3kPuPlk

I really like that

 

[Hookup1]

I really like that

The mount is installed between the v-berts. The table is sized to fit between them to make a larger bunk. When the vertical post is installed the bunk converts to a dinette. You can probably do the same topside. The kit online has a arm that I don't have/need to offset the table top.

 

[Automated14]

The mount is installed between the v-berts. The table is sized to fit between them to make a larger bunk. When the vertical post is installed the bunk converts to a dinette. You can probably do the same topside. The kit online has a arm that I don't have/need to offset the table top.

View attachment 32939 View attachment 32941

I was thinking in the cockpit on mine. I want a table out there but I'd rather not do a floor mount because I have seadek and i'd have to cut it.

question, on a 330 express, there are multiple inspection ports running down the centerline of the cockpit floor. would a floor mounted table base be able to just bolt in place of one of the existing inspection ports? Of course I'd be replacing the self tapping screws with through bolts but would the diameter match?

 

[Hookup1]

I was thinking in the cockpit on mine. I want a table out there but I'd rather not do a floor mount because I have seadek and i'd have to cut it.

question, on a 330 express, there are multiple inspection ports running down the centerline of the cockpit floor. would a floor mounted table base be able to just bolt in place of one of the existing inspection ports? Of course I'd be replacing the self tapping screws with through bolts but would the diameter match?

I re-cored my deck a few years ago because of water intrusion into the plywood. The deck is quite strong but the ports are not. The screws only go into a layer of fiberglass. You could pull the deck and reinforce the port with fiberglass. I would install blind nuts and use machine screws.

 

[DennisG01]

I was thinking in the cockpit on mine. I want a table out there but I'd rather not do a floor mount because I have seadek and i'd have to cut it.

question, on a 330 express, there are multiple inspection ports running down the centerline of the cockpit floor. would a floor mounted table base be able to just bolt in place of one of the existing inspection ports? Of course I'd be replacing the self tapping screws with through bolts but would the diameter match?

If the cutout in the Seadek is big enough, sure. But... how are you going to get to the nuts if you thru-bolt?

Will the table be in the right place if you replace an inspection port?

You could always get a new piece of Seadek made to be cutout around your table base.

Your intial idea is probably the easiest.

 

[Fishtales]

Side mount all the way.

 

[Automated14]

Side mount all the way.

I bought one of those amazon side mount ones. shrink wrap coming off soon. I'll do a mockup and see if the positioning works out