Installing a wireless remote for windlass on 330 Express

[everwhom]

My 2003 330 Express has a Simpson Lawrence / Lewmar Horizon 600 Freefall windlass which is still in good working condition, however it was not installed with remote switches that can be operated from the bow. So if something doesn't go quite right (i.e. the rode bunches up and doesn't fall properly) I have to scramble up to the bow, mess with stuff, scramble back to the helm, operate the switch, scramble back to the bow if it's still not quite right, etc... My previous boat had a remote control right at the anchor locker making this infinitely easier (plus it allows an assistant to operate the windlass when I'm at the helm moving the boat towards the anchor at their direction).

I'd like to add either foot switches or a wireless remote:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... id=2184612
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... id=1485954

Either option has to be connected to the control box... Does anyone know where the control box is usually located? Anyone have any experience with the wireless option? Seems like that may be the easiest to install.

Thanks!

Joe

 

[everwhom]

Re: Anchor Windlass Control Box on 330 Express?

Answering my own question in case anyone else ever needs to know. On my boat the windlass "Contactor" box (Lewmar 52531) is attached just behind and below the windlass control switch and accessible through a circular popout hatch inside the electronics console. It should be very easy to wire in the remote right next to it. Will be doing that as my next weekend project!

 

[everwhom]

I installed my wireless remote today and am very pleased with the results. I was able to do the whole thing through the access hatch, though it was a bit awkward at times.

The device I installed was the Lewmar 3-Button Wireless Remote Kit http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... id=1485954

The installation requires "splicing" into the wires that run between the dashboard switch and the "contactor". 4 connections are needed: +12, Ground, Up, and Down. Instead of actually splicing the wires, I just used 3 of these handy Ancor Multi-Stack connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N ... UTF8&psc=1 which let me attach the remote box on the existing spade connectors on the contactor and then attach the dashboard switch on top of the multi-stack connectors. This worked for the ground, up, and down connections, but for the +12v connection, I had to connect to the dashboard switch itself, and the spade connector didn't have enough room to use the Multi-Stack technique. So instead I just crimped on an extra spade connector to receive the power wire from the switch fuse. Net-net is that I didn't need to cut or recrimp any of the existing wiring and I can easily remove the remote if ever necessary by simply plugging the connectors back to where they used to be.

I attached the remote box to the inside of the console by using 3m VHB tape instead of screwing it in. There wasn't enough room through the 8" access hatch to get a drill into the right position so this was the only option! The tape is extremely strong though so I'm not worried. There are a ton of different types of VHB tape -- I used the exact same type that go-pro uses for their camera mounts, which is supposed to be better for rougher surfaces. I've been using this tape for a bunch of other things including some pretty heavy rod holders and so far it's been great and so much easier than drilling holes.

I also used VHB tape to attach the remote cradle to the underside of the anchor locker hatch, so it will be easily accessible when I need it. I'm still pretty surprised that they did not wire foot switches or a hard-wired remote on this boat as I often find I want to operate the windlass from the bow while someone else is slowly motoring towards the anchor. And clearing any kind of jam is almost impossible if you are by yourself!

 

[Bayhouse]

Nice work! The Lewmar on my 330 took a crap last year and I decided to replace it with a Good Anchor Windlass. I never really liked the Lewmar as the line would constantly knot up (both directions) and generally required someone feeding it in/out. I realize that part of the problem could have been the rode itself, but...

When I spoke with Good, they explained that to install the new unit properly, the windlass needed to be moved back on the bow so the rode could drop into the deepest part of the anchor locker - made perfect sense to me. For the install, they covered the locker door with a block of starboard and ran all new wiring and switch. I also wanted remote switches on the bow and went with the foot button version.

It now works great. I'll try to find some pics and post later.