I am in the process of installing a new stereo system on my 2000 Adventure 208 and I was wondering if anyone knew a ballpark number on the length of wire that I should purchase for a run from the battery at the transom via the rigging tube to where I am mounting the amplifier on the bulkhead wall inside the cabin behind the helm. I've seen a few photos of people doing the same install and was wondering if they remember the wire length. I obviously don't want to cut it too short, but I also don't want to spend a small fortune on 4 AWG wire at WM. Thanks.
Installing amplifier on 208 - Wire Length?
- Thread starter LB2141
- Start date
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Have you downloaded the manual off GW site? I think it tells you how long the pvc chase is....you can add what you need on either end to make sure you have enough.
I'd order my wire from genuinedealz.com before I'd pay WM for it....save your $$$$
I'd order my wire from genuinedealz.com before I'd pay WM for it....save your $$$$
LB2141 said:
Depending on your year, the rigging tube can be in different locations and that difference adds about 2 feet to the run. That said, the length of the steering cable is a good starting point. There can be a lot of routing under the helm from the rigging tube to wherever you want to connect. My suggestion is to snake a drag line ( small sturdy cord) through the rigging tube. The snaking will be the hardest part of the job.
Use a long rope and an electricians snake and enough to go through the run at least twice( or three times the length). After snaking, mark the spot where the rope needs to go at the helm figuring out all the turns, bends, routing etc. Mark that length. Now continue to pull more rope through until you have exposed the mark you made at the other end. The length of the rope you have pulled is the length you need. Get your wire and add 10% or so. leave the rope in place.
When it is time to pull wire, tape the wire at the point you marked and pull the wire back also pulling the extra rope. When you are done pulling the wire, you will have a length of rope in the rigging tube in addition to the new wires. leave that there for possible future use ( like when that dang transducer need to be replaced).
Note that the feed for the equipment should be fused near the battery ( or battery switch or main breaker) per AYBC code and for safety sake. If you connect the feed to the main breaker, you could in theory draw as much amperage as that breaker is rated for ( usually 40 amps). Since the equipment most likely won't have a draw like that and thus a smaller wire gauge that 40A would need, a short anywhere along the run would result in the wire burning up before the breaker tripped. If your equipment draws more than the breaker rating, you will have to install a separate fuse or breaker sized according. In addition, make sure you take into account the run length (back and forth) for wire gauge sizing. If the expected draw is high, you should run a ground wire also since the boats main ground feed may now be undersized.
The responses above are great advice. To give you an idea though, I just installed a Garmin transducer with a 20' cable on an Adventure 208 and from the bottom of the transom, into the starboard battery compartment, straight through the rigging tube and then up to the console, it just barely made it. In fact I needed to put the GPS/Finder on the right side of the compartment to allow it to swivel freely.
You won't need the extra 2-3 feet from the batteries to the bottom of the transom, and probably need less from the end of the rigging tube to where you want the amplifier. It took me probably 5 feet to go from the rigging tube to the console compartment.
Hope that helps.
Rob
You won't need the extra 2-3 feet from the batteries to the bottom of the transom, and probably need less from the end of the rigging tube to where you want the amplifier. It took me probably 5 feet to go from the rigging tube to the console compartment.
Hope that helps.
Rob
Went ahead and ordered 20' lengths of 4 gauge wire from genuinedealz. Only wound up with about 1.5 to 2 ft of extra wire. I was dreading pulling the wire through the rigging tube but it wound up being a piece of cake, the tube was plenty wide enough. Installed a JL Audio MHD900/5, 2 M770's, and a 10" JL Sub. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do about the rear speakers. I really don't want to drill any speaker holes and all of the box speakers seem like they will fall apart with 100w RMS going to them. I will post pictures of the install next time I am on the boat. Thanks for the recommendation on genuinedealz. I ordered custom lugs on the 4 gauge wire and all of the speaker wire as well. Shipping was really fast too.
I haven't had a chance to get down to the boat and take photos yet. I will take a bunch of pics in the next few days and post them. I mounted the speakers in these boxes:
https://sportfishparts.com/products/fib ... audio-m770
I mounted the boxes in that small dead space between the cabin bulkhead and the seat pedestal bases/coolers. They are angled up towards the seats. The subwoofer is mounted in the passenger seat pedestal box/cooler.
https://sportfishparts.com/products/fib ... audio-m770
I mounted the boxes in that small dead space between the cabin bulkhead and the seat pedestal bases/coolers. They are angled up towards the seats. The subwoofer is mounted in the passenger seat pedestal box/cooler.
LB2141 said:
Either you are joking or you have one heck of a system.
Assuming a 40 foot run ( 20 up and back) 4 gauge can handle 120+ amps. That's more than the alternator can output on your motor. In addition that load would rain your battery fairly quickly.
The actual cable length depends on the location of the rigging tube. On the 208 there were two different tube placements and I don't know exactly when they changed. The earlier hulls had the rigging tube near the outside. The change moved it more towards the center of the bilge. The cable length depends on the tube placement. Locate your rigging tube and approximate where it it on the deck. Run a piece of string from the battery switch ( or wherever you intend to connect to the juice and run the string along the deck. At the helm run it to the gunnel under the helm, back to the center of the help and than add what you need to get to the amp location. Double that and add 10% or so.
Remember that if you run directly to the battery you must install a fuse or breaker near the power source. The standard factory main breaker on the 208 is 40 amp.
I posted in another thread on here but I'll copy and paste it here with a little more info. I bought a piece of starboard off of eBay and cut it down to size to mount against the bulkhead. I didn't want to drill a ton of holes into the boat so I mounted the board and then screwed all of the components into that piece of starboard. It worked out pretty well so far. Running the 4 gauge wire wound up being the easiest part of the install believe it or not. Ordering the wire from genuinedealz was worth every penny and the quality of the crimps is way better than I could have done myself. I still need to clean up some wiring and add a second set of speakers but this is what I have so far:
JL Audio MHD 900/5
2x JL Audio M770-TCW-CG-WH
1 JL Audio M10IB5-CG-WH
Fusion MS-BB100
I really like the Fusion. I didn't want to deal with installing a full head unit inside the cuddy cabin but I also didn't want to have to control the head unit solely from the MFD. I took out the 12v receptacle on the helm and installed the remote in that spot. The remote is nice because you can raise/lower the volume or change a track without having to go thru several pages of menus on the Garmin. You can also control everything from the app on your phone.
JL Audio MHD 900/5
2x JL Audio M770-TCW-CG-WH
1 JL Audio M10IB5-CG-WH
Fusion MS-BB100
I really like the Fusion. I didn't want to deal with installing a full head unit inside the cuddy cabin but I also didn't want to have to control the head unit solely from the MFD. I took out the 12v receptacle on the helm and installed the remote in that spot. The remote is nice because you can raise/lower the volume or change a track without having to go thru several pages of menus on the Garmin. You can also control everything from the app on your phone.
