I have a Grady White 86 Overnighter and am replacing the original factory depth sounder with a Lowrance Mark 4. I know and have received input on taking the original wires from the depth sounder and attaching the new finder to the sounder wires and pulling the new wires up to the helm. Is there a larger opening since there will be a larger diameter wire and plug being fed up through there. Just wondering if anyone has had any problems feeding the wires up and what do the wires run into or whatever. Want no suprises getting it stuck along the way. Would appreciate any feedback with someone who has had experience running new wires. Thanks...I am new to this boat.
Installing fish finder
- Thread starter brodie129
- Start date
I put 2 new sounders in my Gulfstream so far...always pull strings in with wires you pull through a boat..at least 2....attach strings to the old sounder transducer cable and pull a string or 2 in with it..then pull the new sounder cable in with 1 of the strings. some dish soap helps sometimes....you may have to help the cable ends around some bulkheads..I had to do that in my boat..I could get my hands most places...good luck..dont pull too hard on the string as you may damage the cable end...
thanks a lot for the information, maybe fish line would work? its stronger, lighter and has a higher tensile strength with less drag, I will try it I appreciate the info.....did you find going over the top of the transom was better than through it, I do have a hole there from the old one but, the cable end is larger will see how it works, just wondering.....
Mono or braid..No. Mon will snap if nicked and braid can actually cut the existing lines, cables and rigging tube.brodie129 said:
Use a small diameter cord/rope. It has to be strong. I use the colored stuff sold in Lowes and Home Depot that comes on a flat dispenser in 100 ft lengths. It is about an 1/8 to 3/16s in diameter.Not only is is strong and small diameter, it doesn't rot easily. That's important for the pull line that is left in place for future work.
The easy or difficulty of the pull depends a lot on how full the rigging tube is and if the existing ducer cable is wrapped by cables added later. Pulling is usually not too bad but getting the cable connector up to the electronics can often be a challenge.
Will check out what they sell as far as the cord rope goes. You have been a lot of help with this I will keep you posted on how it goes. Two or three lines? OK! Nothing else is running back thats a lot of accessories.....
The goal is to always have one pull line in the rigging tube after you are done doing whatever it is you are doingbrodie129 said:
Later on when you need to run something new, you will have a line to pull the cable. If you get to that point, add a new line to the pull so that you still have a spare.
I also found out that the newer Lowrance connectors are 'fatter' than the older ones. For me that meant that the cutouts in my transom and electronics box were not big enough to pass the new connector. Cutting a new hole is relatively easy. Making an existing hole, that has other cables in it, wider was a much more challenging task.
I usually use crabbing line or the colored line that they sell at home depot or lowes as string lines for construction work.....in Grady, I did not find any actual rigging tubes like I have had in my Makos..Mako put in under sized tubes and ran too much through them..try pulling a new steering cable through one,,,it sucks. The grady was easy except for getting through the helm area and out of the electronics box...I would go up and over the transom instead of through it...mush easier to do and no issues trying the seal the transom...
thanks for the information I will inform you on how I did. My last boat a bayliner I had a humminbird installed several years ago and they charged like 200. I will run it over the top of the transom just did not know what to expect in hidden areas in the enclosed hull.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
You should be able to download the owners manual for your boat from the GW website, if you don't already have it.
The manual shows the location of the rigging tubes, if they are in your particular model. I suspect they are, because it's unlikely that GW would have throttle/shift cables, steering cable, and engine harness not in some sort of secure tube. The question is going to be, how much other stuff is in the tube and how much trouble are you going to have getting through it.
Newer GWs have at least 2, or perhaps 3, rigging tubes in the floor.
The manual shows the location of the rigging tubes, if they are in your particular model. I suspect they are, because it's unlikely that GW would have throttle/shift cables, steering cable, and engine harness not in some sort of secure tube. The question is going to be, how much other stuff is in the tube and how much trouble are you going to have getting through it.
Newer GWs have at least 2, or perhaps 3, rigging tubes in the floor.
I have the original owners manual and I see where it runs and will use my old depthsounder wire to run my lines to pull the new depth sounder wires through. I got some light braided rope from home depot small diameter to do this. Did not want to use anything too thick, this has a breaking strength of like 17 pounds which should do the trick. Do you think I should start from the transom or from the helm pulling the rope attached to the depthsounder wires? I am going to trash this anyhow since I will have to cut the wires. Any ideas? Any input would be greatly appreciated. I appreciate everyones help!!!